Those strips bolt the rear 1/4 panel to the door posts. If it hasn't been sealed, there is a seam on the outside along the same line.
Builds 02/75 fj40 restoration
- Thread starter LSUfj
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LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #63
update
I got the body back from the blaster. It looks about as bad as I expected. The driver floor, rear sill skin, front center floor, passenger floor will all have to be replaced due to rust. The passenger quarter panel was involved in an accident and was previously repaired (very poorly). I didnt realize how bad this was due to the cover up by the PO. There are also some other areas that were filled with fiberglass. I will just cut these out and patch. here are a couple pics of how things look.
I got the body back from the blaster. It looks about as bad as I expected. The driver floor, rear sill skin, front center floor, passenger floor will all have to be replaced due to rust. The passenger quarter panel was involved in an accident and was previously repaired (very poorly). I didnt realize how bad this was due to the cover up by the PO. There are also some other areas that were filled with fiberglass. I will just cut these out and patch. here are a couple pics of how things look.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
I spent a morning cutting out the driver side floor pan. I used an 1/8" drill bit at each spot weld, then came back with a 3/8" pilot point bit. Once the spot welds were drilled I used an air chisel to separate the panels. I found that I could simply drill with the 1/8" bit and hit with the chisel to get the same results. I also used the air chisel to remove the sound deadener from the floor. It broke off in large pieces with little effort. I cut out a section of the mid bed that was rusted. The main support looked good on the inside.
Below the sound deadener, the paint looked like a pale greenish yellow. The ID plate showed color 621, which is rustic green. Was this pale color just a primer? Anyway, here are a couple pics of the progress.
Below the sound deadener, the paint looked like a pale greenish yellow. The ID plate showed color 621, which is rustic green. Was this pale color just a primer? Anyway, here are a couple pics of the progress.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #65
I need to get all of the old seam sealer out while I am doing all of these repairs. Any recommendations on new seam sealer? Also, my sandblaster gave me some 2k primer made by Advantage Refinish Products. Not sure if I will use it. Anyone ever use this brand?
#325 High Build DTM Primer Filler | Advantage Refinish Products
#325 High Build DTM Primer Filler | Advantage Refinish Products
just wire wheel it out... not a big deal. I just got some seam sealer at my local body shop supply store. they should have a few to choose from. I got the one they recommended.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #67
I picked up some patch panels from real steel including a passenger quarter panel, sill and some floor patches. He made a panel that included the passenger side and the lip around the transmission opening. Between the driver, center, and this patch I should be able to replace the entire floor. The gas tank area was in good shape, so that will remain. Going to get to work on puting these in today. Just need to pick up some weld through primer. Hope it goes well. Heres a few pics of the patch panels.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #68
I am slowly getting some new metal put in. Even though I wont touch it for a while, I bought some soft top bows from real steel. I dont have a top yet and probably wont get one until everything is nearly back together. Anyone ever seen a rustic green with an OD green top? I think once it faded to something closer to gray it would look great.
Anyway, I thought I'd share a pic of what I have been spending more time doing. I am a mechanical engineer and have been working on small power plants for the last 6 years. The latest one has a 34 MW GE gas turbine and uses a heat recovery boiler to generate steam from the turbine exhaust. Its pretty cool watching your design being constructed. Heres a pic from the top of the boiler looking down at the gas turbine. I know its not much to see, but this is taken from about 50 feet up. Thats a 10" 600psi steam line in the center of the picture.
I'll try to get some more photos of the cruiser soon. This body work stuff is slow and boring unless you are the one doing it. Well, its still slow, but you know what I mean.
Anyway, I thought I'd share a pic of what I have been spending more time doing. I am a mechanical engineer and have been working on small power plants for the last 6 years. The latest one has a 34 MW GE gas turbine and uses a heat recovery boiler to generate steam from the turbine exhaust. Its pretty cool watching your design being constructed. Heres a pic from the top of the boiler looking down at the gas turbine. I know its not much to see, but this is taken from about 50 feet up. Thats a 10" 600psi steam line in the center of the picture.
I'll try to get some more photos of the cruiser soon. This body work stuff is slow and boring unless you are the one doing it. Well, its still slow, but you know what I mean.
Good progress!
Looking good, LSU! When do you think you will have her on the road? I would love to check her out some weekend.
Looking good, LSU! When do you think you will have her on the road? I would love to check her out some weekend.
I like your thread and good work on the Truck and the pics too.
Although the Color of it is making me want to eat something spearmint flavored now...
Although the Color of it is making me want to eat something spearmint flavored now...
LSUfj
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- Thread starter
- #72
Thanks for the compliments. I need to get up some pics of the front floor which is complete now. I dont imagine it will be driveable for quite some time at the rate I am going. I should probably establish a deadline, but I know cash flow will eventually derail any plans.
Any insight to the question above about the holes in the front floor for the fuel lines?
Any insight to the question above about the holes in the front floor for the fuel lines?
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #73
as promised, here are a couple pics for the floors. I havent grinded any of the welds yet. I've noticed a big difference in welding the new steel vs the old. The new is 16ga vs 18ga OEM. The 16ga stuff is so much easier to do. Next is to put the floor supports back in and patch a few spots of the fuel tank area. Then I will attack the rear quarter panel, sill and a few bad spots in the rear bed. Overall, I am very happy with how its turning out.
Jacket
Moderator
Those floors look great. Nice job.
wow... nice!!
The new floor looks good, but I see rust holes in the pan where the fuel tank sits, why not just go all new on the front floor pan while you're in there?
Nice work!!
LSUfj
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- Thread starter
- #78
Thought about it, but most of the vendors that sell that section want a lot of money for it. Theres only a few areas of the gas tank pan that I will need to replace. A few hours work will save me around $400. Aside from the savings, I am really enjoying learning to fabricate.
Wow. Beautiful work.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #80
been really busy, so not much to report. I cut out the rear bed to replace the driver side edge. Turned out it wasnt that bad, but the top was pretty pitted. I drilled out the spot welds on the support so I could do some hammer and dolly work where the support was. I got the panel all straightened out and made a patch for the area that was pitted. It came out pretty well. I also used some eastwood rust converter on the back side of the support where the sandblaster didnt reach. The stuff sprays clear and converts the rust to a paintable black surface. I will get the bed back on this weekend and hopefully get the sill and passenger rear quarter started. After that, I just need to get little brackets and wire harness holders back on the underside of the floor. I'm really enjoying all of this welding and fabrication, but it will be nice to move on to something else.
