Build 02/75 fj40 restoration
- Thread starter LSUfj
- Start date
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well it looks like your dog is about as much help as mine is. lol looks like its going to be a good build up
I have used zerorust in the past and have like it, and it's alot cheaper than por. I would stick to one paint for the frame and other areas, to me 2 types of paint is much harder and I worry how they will interact with each other. Rustbullet I have heard is good stuff too.
I like sandblasting if you can find a good blaster that will quote and stick to it. The metal is just so easy to work with after blasting. Spray some primer and polyurethane. Done. Probably $200 in paint, haven't priced the blasting yet, just a guess $200 for the frame.
Rusted floor pans might have been the PO using carpet. Draw up some sheet metal shapes and take it to a sheet metal shop and have them quote it. It might be worth buying a tool to cut some shapes out of flats. Thats my plan.
Rusted floor pans might have been the PO using carpet. Draw up some sheet metal shapes and take it to a sheet metal shop and have them quote it. It might be worth buying a tool to cut some shapes out of flats. Thats my plan.
If you clean the frame up proper - I'd do it right with a marine epoxy primer and a two stage urethane or epoxy paint. Better adhesion and tougher finish. Did this to my 76 13 years ago - and it's held up well, although it's heavily abused.
I have a early 75 project being picked up for me this weekend - will be doing an immediate tear down and a multi-year restoration. Will enjoy watching your progress.
I have a early 75 project being picked up for me this weekend - will be doing an immediate tear down and a multi-year restoration. Will enjoy watching your progress.
- Thread starter
- #26
Heres a pic of the cheap ebay panels. The ribbing is a lot thinner than the stock panels. It looks like they are made by hand rather than with a die.
I am leaning toward the realsteel panels. I live in Fort Worth where they are made, so i'll save all of the shipping cost. I really like the pacolonline panels since it has the support already tacked on and the entire floor as one piece, but they are more expensive and include a lot of steel that I dont need.
The realsteel panels will be made up of a driver side, pass side, center, and gas tank depression. I will only need the driver, center and maybe the passenger side. I think total will be around $300-$400. I will have to see what it looks like after i get the paint off.
I am leaning toward the realsteel panels. I live in Fort Worth where they are made, so i'll save all of the shipping cost. I really like the pacolonline panels since it has the support already tacked on and the entire floor as one piece, but they are more expensive and include a lot of steel that I dont need.
The realsteel panels will be made up of a driver side, pass side, center, and gas tank depression. I will only need the driver, center and maybe the passenger side. I think total will be around $300-$400. I will have to see what it looks like after i get the paint off.
- Thread starter
- #28
Has anyone used the Heritage floor pans? I'd like to see a photo of the floor pan or pans. IPOR had the complete floor pan for $549 a while back, but they may be out of them by now. If anyone has a few pics of any of their (heritage sheet metal) products, lets see em.
frame coating thoughts
Question: I thought about using por15 on the frame, but recently heard that it was very thick and not a good choice for a factory finish type of restoration. I might just use it on the axles and use something a little thinner on the frame. Maybe a rust protective coating then a coat of eastwood chassis black. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
Although not posted in my build thread yet, I had my 81 FJ40 frame sandblasted and powder coated. Result? Rust already. If you don't have a very meticulous powder coater, it doesn't get inside the frame and in the seams. So now I'm going to touch it up with POR 15. I've used it a lot on my mini truck, including on the wheels which get ground against rocks, etc, and it has held up well. Just be sure to hit it with a topcoat while it's still tacky (while drying), one, because it is UV sensitive and will cloud up if you don't, and two, you can color match it to stock if that's your preference.
It will get "thick" on you if exposed to a humid environment while you apply it, but just out of the can, its about the same consistency as any other paint. I brushed it on. Just my $0.02 ... Good luck. Nice rig you have there!
Question: I thought about using por15 on the frame, but recently heard that it was very thick and not a good choice for a factory finish type of restoration. I might just use it on the axles and use something a little thinner on the frame. Maybe a rust protective coating then a coat of eastwood chassis black. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
Although not posted in my build thread yet, I had my 81 FJ40 frame sandblasted and powder coated. Result? Rust already. If you don't have a very meticulous powder coater, it doesn't get inside the frame and in the seams. So now I'm going to touch it up with POR 15. I've used it a lot on my mini truck, including on the wheels which get ground against rocks, etc, and it has held up well. Just be sure to hit it with a topcoat while it's still tacky (while drying), one, because it is UV sensitive and will cloud up if you don't, and two, you can color match it to stock if that's your preference.
It will get "thick" on you if exposed to a humid environment while you apply it, but just out of the can, its about the same consistency as any other paint. I brushed it on. Just my $0.02 ... Good luck. Nice rig you have there!
- Thread starter
- #30
I built a stand/cart fort the tub to sit in. I can roll it around the shop and hopefully flip it on its side to work on the belly. I built it out of some scrap fence railing i had so it was free and so far it seems plenty strong. I've since added some wheels to the side so it can be moved while on its side. The only drawback is that its not a one man job to flip on its side. If/when I get it one its side, I will get some more pictures.
I also got the frame off and on a trailer ready to go to the sandblaster. I decided to go with eastwoods extreme chassis black and the primer that goes with it. It was about $120 for both with shipping. I bought the quart containers that you spray using a gun. I assume I can spray this stuff with a regular gun with a primer tip (~1.8). Pics will follow. Suggestions are welcome.
I also got the frame off and on a trailer ready to go to the sandblaster. I decided to go with eastwoods extreme chassis black and the primer that goes with it. It was about $120 for both with shipping. I bought the quart containers that you spray using a gun. I assume I can spray this stuff with a regular gun with a primer tip (~1.8). Pics will follow. Suggestions are welcome.
- Thread starter
- #32
rear frame member
I got the frame blasted for $150. Overall its in great shape. There are sections at the front that are barely pitted, but still plenty thick. The rear is a bit worse, but I dont think replacement metal is needed. The rear frame crossmember is another issue.
It isnt in horrible shape from a metal perspective, but its bent in many spots and has been welded and drilled on. The PO actually tried to mask one of the bent spots with fiberglass and body tiller
THE PLAN: As for the small pits, what do you guys think about using a skim coat of filler? Im sure most people wouldnt even notice the pits since they are mostly on the inside of the rails, but I think it would come out better if the whole thing was smooth. I will finish everything with eastwood extreme chassis black satin.
The frame member needs to be repaired or replaced. I could either
a) cut out sections of it and replace with new.
b) get a new one from man a fre and modify to look stock.
I am leaning towards a new one. The only think i would do to is cut out the sections on the top where the stock one has indentions and weld in some pieces from my old one. I think there are also some holes that arent stock.
Also, what about the brackets? They look good, but are bent. Probably used as a tow hook at some point. I think I can probably heat them up a bit and straighten them out.
I am open to ideas. Please provide thoughts. Here are some pics.
I got the frame blasted for $150. Overall its in great shape. There are sections at the front that are barely pitted, but still plenty thick. The rear is a bit worse, but I dont think replacement metal is needed. The rear frame crossmember is another issue.
It isnt in horrible shape from a metal perspective, but its bent in many spots and has been welded and drilled on. The PO actually tried to mask one of the bent spots with fiberglass and body tiller
THE PLAN: As for the small pits, what do you guys think about using a skim coat of filler? Im sure most people wouldnt even notice the pits since they are mostly on the inside of the rails, but I think it would come out better if the whole thing was smooth. I will finish everything with eastwood extreme chassis black satin.
The frame member needs to be repaired or replaced. I could either
a) cut out sections of it and replace with new.
b) get a new one from man a fre and modify to look stock.
I am leaning towards a new one. The only think i would do to is cut out the sections on the top where the stock one has indentions and weld in some pieces from my old one. I think there are also some holes that arent stock.
Also, what about the brackets? They look good, but are bent. Probably used as a tow hook at some point. I think I can probably heat them up a bit and straighten them out.
I am open to ideas. Please provide thoughts. Here are some pics.
I guess the question is restoration, or get it back together in perfectly good shape. Restoration, sure buy new. Mine looked alot like yours, but the diangle piece was rusted through. So, I pulled it off, and replaced. The rear bumper was fine - pleanty of metal left. I heated and beat on mine too to get all the bent area out. An hour of work, and it was done. AND I didn't have to drill out a bunch of rivets.
So, to me this is what quality are you going for......
So, to me this is what quality are you going for......
- Thread starter
- #34
I would really like to get it to as new condition. Obviously plans change, but I am just getting started with reassembly and would like to get off to a good start. The outside of the frame looks fine, its only slightly pitted on the inside of the front and rear ends. More so on the rear as you can see.
I think the rear frame member is a matter of time and money. It would take quite a bit of time to remove all of the broken bolts in it and repair the section of sheared metal where the PO patched with fiberglass. I just think its a lot of work, and for $195, the new piece is going to be a big time saver. Of course hardware will be an additional cost.
Thanks for the input.
- Thread starter
- #36
A few mor questions before I go off and purchase a new frame member:
1. Is the man a fre frame member shorter (up/down) than stock? The stock one pinches down to attach to the main frame rails. I would like to replicate this, but if it is already shorter, then I wont be able to do this. I beleive the factory peice is about 4 1/4" high. A pic of the back side of man a fre's peice would be helpful.
2. what are all of these holes for in the stock member (pic)? the lights go back there, what else? In particular, the one furthest to the outside....
Thanks,
Bret
1. Is the man a fre frame member shorter (up/down) than stock? The stock one pinches down to attach to the main frame rails. I would like to replicate this, but if it is already shorter, then I wont be able to do this. I beleive the factory peice is about 4 1/4" high. A pic of the back side of man a fre's peice would be helpful.
2. what are all of these holes for in the stock member (pic)? the lights go back there, what else? In particular, the one furthest to the outside....
Thanks,
Bret
Bret, The outside hole in your circle is the attachment point for a metal shield to protect the tail light housing from rocks etc. Your's must have been missing.
John
John
- Thread starter
- #38
Or completely rusted.....I have new ones already, i never did check to see how they attached.
- Thread starter
- #39
update
Been really busy planning a honeymoon.....eh..wedding. I ended up getting a new rear frame member from the guy that sells them on ebay. The piece he makes is really nice. It uses spacers instead of being notched like the stock piece. It also doesnt come with the nuts welded to the back side. Anyway, its still a time saver.
I decided to do a little repair on the rear brackets that mount to the rear frame member since they were pitted pretty badly. I cut up my old rear frame member since all the holes were drilled already. Had to remove a little height from it though, since it was about 3/8" taller than the brackets. I will get some better photos of the new frame member this weekend. I should have the frame done and painted by saturday afternoon if all goes well.
Couple pics of the bracket repair. poor phone pics....sorry.
Been really busy planning a honeymoon.....eh..wedding. I ended up getting a new rear frame member from the guy that sells them on ebay. The piece he makes is really nice. It uses spacers instead of being notched like the stock piece. It also doesnt come with the nuts welded to the back side. Anyway, its still a time saver.
I decided to do a little repair on the rear brackets that mount to the rear frame member since they were pitted pretty badly. I cut up my old rear frame member since all the holes were drilled already. Had to remove a little height from it though, since it was about 3/8" taller than the brackets. I will get some better photos of the new frame member this weekend. I should have the frame done and painted by saturday afternoon if all goes well.
Couple pics of the bracket repair. poor phone pics....sorry.
Great work, especially fabbing your own stuff! Keep posting pics once married, please.