Build 02/75 fj40 restoration
- Thread starter LSUfj
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- #182
Confirmed this was a blind hole as well. I put the oil sender in the other hole nearby. Also got the manifolds sorted and finally got the engine back in. Now I’m working through some sniper stuff. Note that the chrome sniper was not my first choice, just happened to find it on Facebook marketplace for a good deal.
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- #183
I could use some help from those with Snipers.
- The connector was torn off of the wires for the sniper display. Anyone got a photo that shows the order that the wires are terminated in the connector? I got a new connector and terminals. Photo below is from Holley, but I’m not certain the sniper is the same.
- What are folks doing with the unused connectors/wiring? Just zip tied up near the firewall?
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- Thread starter
- #184
Another unexpected issue. I purchased an Aisin water pump (WPT-063), which is supposed to be the version for a fan clutch, no oil cooler?? But my fan is touching the radiator. Reminder, this is the original 2F, which had a direct drive fan previously. Fan and clutch are new Aisin parts. I know the pump is shorter than the direct drive version. Is there a specific clutch I need? The one I have is Aisin FCT-017.
I don’t think there’s much radiator adjustment because of the braces on each side.
I don’t think there’s much radiator adjustment because of the braces on each side.
In DFW aa well. Rowlett. Nice work! Have a similar truck. Kermit we call it. Stock.1976.
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- #186
Nice looking cruiser. Look forward to a meet up if I can ever get mine back on the road!
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
I have a 2 injector sniper 550-850 in Black. I believe the shiny one you have is 550-849, but I believe the connections for the display should be the same. I haven't connected all the wiring but will be relatively soon. Pic below my display connector - same as the one you pulled from Holley site...
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- #188
Awesome!! Thank you!!!!
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- #189
I made some progress with some fuel line clamps and got everything plumbed at least temporarily. I’m probably going to do something to tidy up the supply and return hoses at the tank and where they go through the floor.
Also go the sniper display repinned and the O2 sensor installed. Other than coolant and a fill of break in oil, pretty close to attempting startup.
Decided to go back to the OEM direct drive pump, so I have a new Aisin clutch style on the bench. New OEM pump from @cruiseroutfit and fan from @Racer65.
New turn signal lights too!
Also go the sniper display repinned and the O2 sensor installed. Other than coolant and a fill of break in oil, pretty close to attempting startup.
Decided to go back to the OEM direct drive pump, so I have a new Aisin clutch style on the bench. New OEM pump from @cruiseroutfit and fan from @Racer65.
New turn signal lights too!
Man looking sharp. I’m needing to get me some new oem blinker lights at some point.
As for all the extra wiring on sniper I just zip-tied next to firewall. Wish they had a connection and the sniper to be able to just remove.
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
Looking great. I just fired my motor for the first time yesterday. We should meet up once we get our rigs rolling again!
Dang, so odd to read a 16 year long thread in 20 minutes.
Congrats on quality work and perseverance.
Good luck getting it driving
Congrats on quality work and perseverance.
Good luck getting it driving
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- #193
Definitely. Been following your build.
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- #194
Went to the Mecum Auction with my dad. There were a hand full of cruisers. Bidding stalled on this especially nice 43 at $48k.
This gray one was already sold. Not bad but both rear shackles were inverted.
This gray one was already sold. Not bad but both rear shackles were inverted.
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- #195
Significant progress over the holidays. First fire was a success. Started immediately and got timing adjusted to stock. I have run it several times now but keep turning it off because the sniper temp sensor is showing 200+ degrees and climbing. Radiator is not getting warm, so I swapped out the thermostat last night. I’ll give it a go again today. For anyone that has the sniper sensor in the back of the head, how hot is it running? I believe the sensor is reading about 10 degrees high when compared to a thermocouple I stuck on the outside of the head right next to the sensor. Stock gauge works but I also don’t have 100% confidence that it’s right.
Oil pressure is good, rockers are getting oil, no leaks. I also 3d printed an air cleaner adapter using my daughter’s Christmas gift (the printer).
I do have a concern that the repaired intake may still have a crack that allows a drip of fuel when it sits. Vacuum is 18” at idle, so I’m not certain. It may be dripping down from the top of the sniper. Some amount of fuel makes its way to the top when the injectors are going with no air cleaner installed.
I also plan to replace the fuel line hard line. I’m not happy with the bends on this one, but it’s functional for now.
Oil pressure is good, rockers are getting oil, no leaks. I also 3d printed an air cleaner adapter using my daughter’s Christmas gift (the printer).
I do have a concern that the repaired intake may still have a crack that allows a drip of fuel when it sits. Vacuum is 18” at idle, so I’m not certain. It may be dripping down from the top of the sniper. Some amount of fuel makes its way to the top when the injectors are going with no air cleaner installed.
I also plan to replace the fuel line hard line. I’m not happy with the bends on this one, but it’s functional for now.
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
Mine runs 187°-190° steadily once up to temp.
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- #197
Thermostat change did the trick. Also raised the front to get any air out. Ran for several minutes and it was pretty steady around 180.
I’m really happy with this milestone. Now just have a million little things to do.
I had some spare silver base coat from a 4Runner bumper repair, so I spruced up the valve cover and added some decals. I’ll clear over them next weekend.
I’m really happy with this milestone. Now just have a million little things to do.
I had some spare silver base coat from a 4Runner bumper repair, so I spruced up the valve cover and added some decals. I’ll clear over them next weekend.
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- #198
Spent yesterday replacing the body mounts and tinkering with some brake light issues, I got a new aftermarket brake switch from one of our trusty vendors and I think the greens/reds are pinned incorrectly on the switch.
Here’s what’s happening. If I partially depress the pedal I get 12v to the tail lights. Further pressing of the pedal and the voltage to the tail lights goes away. I tested the switch and it’s closing the GW contacts when it should be briefly closing the warning circuit and closing then RW. So are the terminals reversed? This page from the service manual shows how it should work.
Additionally, I have this single wire warning light, but all diagrams I see show two wires at the warning light. How does this get wired?
Here’s what’s happening. If I partially depress the pedal I get 12v to the tail lights. Further pressing of the pedal and the voltage to the tail lights goes away. I tested the switch and it’s closing the GW contacts when it should be briefly closing the warning circuit and closing then RW. So are the terminals reversed? This page from the service manual shows how it should work.
Additionally, I have this single wire warning light, but all diagrams I see show two wires at the warning light. How does this get wired?
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- #199
If anyone has insight or better yet, a photo, of how that little brake warning light is wired, I’d appreciate it. I can’t find any pictures online of how the back of it is supposed to look. Based on what I see, I think a male bullet connector would go into the back, but I’m not sure. And I assume it’s just grounded through the body of the light housing.
I swapped the brake switch terminals around and it popped the fuse. So, I think my crossed terminal theory was not a good one.
I swapped the brake switch terminals around and it popped the fuse. So, I think my crossed terminal theory was not a good one.
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- #200
If you search long enough, the answers are always here on mud. I found the photos I was looking for regarding that little brake warning light. The wires must have come off of the housing on mine. I think I can fix it.. here is what it’s supposed to look like.
