Build 02/75 fj40 restoration

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Looking good! Looks like there is some surface rust where the joints were. I am worried about this with mine. If I don't replace a panel won't the rust just come back because of this hidden rust in the joints that the blaster can't get to? What are you doing to prep this area?
 
Looking good! Looks like there is some surface rust where the joints were. I am worried about this with mine. If I don't replace a panel won't the rust just come back because of this hidden rust in the joints that the blaster can't get to? What are you doing to prep this area?
 
Very nice work LSUfj. I have this in my future too. Planning for 22 years from now when I retire. Hope it lasts till then! Keep up the good work and updates with pics.
 
broth9640 said:
Looking good! Looks like there is some surface rust where the joints were. I am worried about this with mine. If I don't replace a panel won't the rust just come back because of this hidden rust in the joints that the blaster can't get to? What are you doing to prep this area?
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while I have it apart i am blasting the small areas with a harbor freight blaster. In hard to reach areas that I wont be welding on, I use eastwood rust converter and/or eastwoods internal frame coating. Only time will tell, but I think it will hold up. Before I put things back where I need to weld, i use weld thru primer. I figure between this, an epoxy etch primer and seam sealer, I can hopefully keep moisture from getting back into these areas.
 
broth9640 said:
Your rolling chassis looks great. I am torn between painting and powder coating. How did you paint the inside sections of the frame?
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I bought the quart size eastwood extreme chassis black and sprayed it with my gun. The 40 frame is pretty open so its not to tough to get the insides. Anything i cant see with get the internal frame coating, which leaves a wax type coating.
 
Lookin good LSU. I am working on the frame right now. Have to replace the two C-channel supports in the rear. I am in Wichita Falls right now and originally from Azle. I wish I was a little closer to the Metroplex because there ain't anything up here. :) Keep up the good work
 
Quick update. I got the rear sill and passenger quarter panel on. Fit was pretty good on the real steel parts. The sill was intended for a later year, so I had to relocate the rear door catch about 1/2" or so to the driver side. It also wasnt quite wide enough at the door opening area, hard to describe. Quarter panel fit was very good and it went on pretty easily. Pics will follow.

I bought paint the yesterday, decided to go base/clear even though I had planned on single stage the whole time. Hopefully it was the right move. I probably wont be adding color for another month at the pace this has been going. I'm spending a lot of time getting rid of every non-OEM hole and adding captive nuts to the new panels.
 
pics. sorry for the poor quality.
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I got around to cleaning up some of the numerous welds. I also got my hands on an OEM driver side fender on ebay. It didnt fit quite as well as I would have expected for an OEM piece, but I did a little adjusting on the apron and got it to fit just fine. I know I keep saying this, but I am nearly done with the sheet metal work. I just worry about leaving off a captive nut or something that would require stripping any primer off. I plan on getting to the paint stage in the next month or so.

I got some color samples for an OEM style soft top from Jim (OCD tops). I am leaning toward gray, although black would probably look pretty good. OD green just doesnt go with rustic green. If I got black, I would hope for it to fade to a nice dark gray. What do you guys think? What color tops came with rustic green from the factory?
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The gray is a little lighter than I would like, so I am leaning toward black right now. I may try to do some accelerated fading on the samples to see what they will look like. I've seen some OD greens that faded to a pretty cool looking gray. I dont think this one will get there though.
 
She coming along nicely, LSU! When do you think she will be on the raod again?

I just got my carb back from Jim C so I hope to have mine running by the long weekend.
 
Funkytown 40 said:
She coming along nicely, LSU! When do you think she will be on the raod again?

I just got my carb back from Jim C so I hope to have mine running by the long weekend.
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Unfortunately, it'll probably be a good 5-6 months until its road worthy. This body work was fun when I started, now I just want to move on to paint. Needless to say, its taking longer than I would like.

subzali said:
Rustic Green and black would be my vote:
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Thanks for the input subzali, I'm leaning toward black. The more I look at the gray, I think it may be a little too light.
 
I understand about the project dragging out. On the positive side, you are not missing out on cruising around in this stupid heat.

Not to thread hijack, but who did you use for sandblasting in Ft Worth? THanks in advance for the info.
 
Funkytown 40 said:
I understand about the project dragging out. On the positive side, you are not missing out on cruising around in this stupid heat.

Not to thread hijack, but who did you use for sandblasting in Ft Worth? THanks in advance for the info.
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I agree, I'm looking forward to a break in the heat later this week. As for the blaster, I have a small HF blaster that I use at home, but I used Tony Hart for the body and frame. They were pretty reasonable. Let me know if you need the number.
 
sprayed the primer surfacer this weekend. Came out pretty good. I ordered some upol raptor and will spray the bottom next weekend. I went with black for the bottom and will do a color match on the inside. I'm hoping the required sanding will be minimal. I'll have to add some filler in a few low spots. I still need to do some metal repair on the pass fender, the driver is a new OEM (pictured below).

Its gettin there!
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Everything looks to be coming along nicely. Seeing your thread makes me want to take mine apart and do it right. Keep up the good work.
 
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