Change air filter without cracking air intake duct? (1 Viewer)

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e9999

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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will want to change air filter soon. But when I had a quick look it seemed like the lid wouldn't lift very much without resistance. Now I remember reading about warnings not to damage the intake duct which apparently will crack (underneath the bellows maybe?).
So, are there tricks to opening the box and changing the air filter with the least risk of damaging the air intake? Like disconnecting this or that, twisting this that way, or rubbing some special oil while laying hands and chanting some mantra? :D
thanks in advance
Eric
added: oh, yes, for you-know-who's benefit: I did run a search...! :D
 
Pretty easy to just take it off. Unplug the airflow sensor, then loosen the hose clamp up near the throttle body and you can remove the whole works in about 1 minute. There's one other cable support to unhook, it will be obvious. Then you can inspect your bellows area for cracks as you're wiping the inside clean with a rag..
 
yep, take the throttle cable out of its resting notch, take off the MAF plug and unclip the cruse control cable from the support bracket (last two not required for filter replacement but easier if you do) undo all the air cleaner thumb clamps and wing nut leave the air cleaner cover in place for now, loosen the duct clamp at the Throttle body end.

slide the duct and upper air cleaner assembly off the throttle body (towards trucks right) lifting only high enough to clear the stud in the air cleaner,

if it has not been removed in a wile it may want to stick to the throttle body so be gentle with it, if it will not slide off try slight rotation, if not then try sliding a dull thin object (like a butter knife or if you are skilled a 90* pick) between the duct and TB to break the hold careful not to cut or stretch the duct,
 
I would say that if you intake is hard enough (brittle) to crack if you replace your air filter that you should go ahead and replace those parts at the same time.

If it is hard and brittle, you probably have enough smaller cracks to impact performance anyway.

My 2 cents... :cheers:
 
Does anyone know what a smart shopper would pay for such an item? ;)

Sounds like another reasonably priced part for the list ! thanks for the info :D
 
[quote author=Eduardo96FZJ80 link=board=2;threadid=16219;start=msg155483#msg155483 date=1084391542]
Does anyone know what a smart shopper would pay for such an item? ;)
[/quote]

:rolleyes:

Can't think of a soul :flipoff2:

About $66.19 for 93-97. There are two different versions, one for 93-94 and one for 95-97. The price is the same.

93-4 17881-66060
95-7 17881-66080
 
Mine was cracked, got it from my local dealer for $93. Cheapest in town from 4 different Toyo dealers.
 
About 5 bucks higher than Toyota's suggested retail price. :-\


I guess I'm too cheap :eek:
 
Well, just did it.
Trivial. Nothing to it if the intake hose is not brittle.
As mentioned above, removed the 2 obvious cables, the connector and its cable holder, undid the 2 hose clamps, lifted the lid just the minimum to clear the stud, pulled gently, all came out. My rubber still soft. No crack visible. Put some ArmorAll on hose to help keep it soft (maybe, if not at least it's pretty). New filter. Cleaned inside, bit of vacuuming, all set to go. Spent more time cleaning the inside and outside of hose than disassembling / reassembling.
Next time, can do it all in less than 15 mins I think.
1/2 :beer: but worth being careful in case the hose is brittle... Main thing is not to try to lift the filter lid without undoing the hose, that could crack things I imagine!
thanks all
Eric
 
Mine didn't seem brittle either when I removed it a few weeks ago.

Got me wondering if there was any sort of moisturizer that could be applied to it to keep it from getting brittle. ???
 
I bet you could get some at Neiman-Marcus. Send your wife, have her ask for "intake moisturizer" - they must have something that will work! ;)

Seriously though, a high quality rubber protectant should help keep that sucker soft and supple.
 
not sure I trust Armor all, some say it is great others say it cracks plastic and rubber

used Vaseline on mine, I don't know if that will help or hurt the tube (I'll let you know in 100K) but it is a commonly spec to lubricate rubber parts I use at work
 
I'll refrain from making the obvious comment... :D
(but it's hard...)
:-X
E
 
:eek: just re read that it does sound really bad, was not suppose to sound like that :slap:
 
Geez, will you guys grow up and get a grip :slap: :-X
 
errr, could have used a better choice of words, MoJ
what's with you all Freudian slippers?
:-X
E
 
303 works well on rubber parts - supposedly restores the volatile oils in the rubber. I restored a dried-out, but not cracked, dash pad from a '74 40 by soaking it down with 303 and wrapping it in plastic wrap for a week. Came out like new.
 
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