Dizzy does not sit flush

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Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Threads
67
Messages
815
Location
Napa Valley California
Website
www.mosscreekwinery.com
why does my dizzy sit about 3/8 of an inch above the engine hole. Am I missing a bracket. It is a 2F engine that I had rebuilt. Here are a couple of pictures.
dizzy1.webp
dizzy 2.webp
 
Does the oil pump run off of the dist. shaft? It may not be lined up.
 
It is seated in the cam, just not into the oil pump. Ask me how I learned this the hard way! :)
 
It seems that it is not seeded, but I have tried to push it down, wiggle it, twist etc... and no luck getting it into place. I don't want to force it down. If defiantly is metal against metal and doesn't want to go in any further. Is there any type of spacer which is suppose to be between dist and engine block? I will pull it out and take shaft pictures compared to my old distributor from 1F. They are a bit different. Since this engine was new to me before I rebuilt it, I don't know how the dist fit previously.
 
Read the post above yours. The distributor is not seated into the oil pump. You will need to remove the distributor, and using a flat head screwdriver inserted into the hole where the distributor seats turn the oil pump to align. If you don't seat the distributor into the oil pump you will have zero oil pressure and your motor will seize if run. Happens often, lots of threads here on this.
 
NO EXTRA SPACER. mine did this to me as well. You'll have to pull the dizzy and line the oil pump slot up w/ the blade on the end of the dizzy shaft. It took me a few attempts to get it right, and I think I did have to push down pretty good once everything was lined up. Take your time and play w/ it as necessary, you don't want to run that mill w/o the oil pump being driven correctly.
 
+1 to all the above. If you want to be 100% sure you have it seated in the oil pump, take all your spark plugs out and the oil filter off and crank the the engine with the starter until oil comes out of the oil filter mount.
 
I think I'd just leave it if you know the timing is set correctly (although hopefully you haven't run the engine like this to check the timing), then throw a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and crank it over by hand until the distributor shaft lines up with the oil pump shaft. Just turn a little bit, push it down, turn a little bit, push it down, etc.
 
NO EXTRA SPACER. mine did this to me as well. You'll have to pull the dizzy and line the oil pump slot up w/ the blade on the end of the dizzy shaft. It took me a few attempts to get it right, and I think I did have to push down pretty good once everything was lined up. Take your time and play w/ it as necessary, you don't want to run that mill w/o the oil pump being driven correctly.

the oil pump turns very easily with a screwdriver...make sure its right and it will slide right in..
 
I do something similar. Once the dizzy gear is meshed correctly with the cam gear, I lust lean on the dizzy cap with one hand and use the other hand to jump the starter motor to rotate the engine. You can feel when the dizzy drops into the slot and hear a comforting "thunk" as it settles into place.




I think I'd just leave it if you know the timing is set correctly (although hopefully you haven't run the engine like this to check the timing), then throw a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and crank it over by hand until the distributor shaft lines up with the oil pump shaft. Just turn a little bit, push it down, turn a little bit, push it down, etc.
 
Have someone turn the motor over while you push down on the dizzy to seat it. It'll take no time at all.


But, if you have not gotten oil in all fo hte passageways yet, I'd suggest putting a flathead screwdriver in there and spinning it till oil squirts out of the rockers.
 
I'd suggest putting a flathead screwdriver in there and spinning it till oil squirts out of the rockers.


I'm confused about that. I was under the impression that you can not pump oil up to rockers without rotating the camshaft. The oil has to go through the camshaft bearing, yes? (I think)You can spin the pump with the screwdriver to get oil through the oil filter, and even show an oil pressure on the gauge, but (I think)you won't get oil to the rockers without spinning the engine. Am I wrong here? It has been 5 years or so since my one and only engine build, I may be forgetting something.
 
The cam doesn't need to be spinning. You can do it if you line up the oil hole in the number 4 (IIRC) cam journal with the oil hole in the bearing. it's a PITA to get it lined up.


I'm confused about that. I was under the impression that you can not pump oil up to rockers without rotating the camshaft. The oil has to go through the camshaft bearing, yes? (I think)You can spin the pump with the screwdriver to get oil through the oil filter, and even show an oil pressure on the gauge, but (I think)you won't get oil to the rockers without spinning the engine. Am I wrong here? It has been 5 years or so since my one and only engine build, I may be forgetting something.
 
All the above is good. I recently went through this when I installed a "new to me" engine and it took me several attempts to line up all the factors. In my case, the process consisted of;

Confirm the oil pump works - an assistant is very helpful here
  • Chuck a flat head screw driver into a drill bit
  • Turn the ignition switch to the run position
  • Insert the drill bit to the distributor hole
  • Run the drill until oil pressure registered on the gauge

Set the flywheel to 7 DBTDC of compression stroke
  • Remove spark plug #1
  • Insert a tissue gently into the #1 spark plug hole
  • Rotate the engine until the tissue "pops" out
  • Continue to rotate the engine until the pointer is aligned with the BB

Stab the distributor
  • Use a rag and flat head screw driver to clean up the oil pump slot so that you can see the slot.
  • Use a flat head screw driver to rotate the oil pump slot so that it points just to the right of spark plug hole #4 on the block.
  • Take a sharpie and mark the distributor body where the #1 spark plug wire is on the cap.
  • Remove the cap from the distributor and turn to Rotor until it points to the mark made in the step above. If you've done it well, you will see the distributor pick up is right where it needs to be when the #1 spark plug will fire.
  • Start to insert the distributor, so that the shaft is on the same line as the oil pump slot. Confirm the distributor base clamp will end up where it needs to be so the bolt will lock it into the block and you have room to adjust the timing.
  • Keeping the distributor body steady, turn the rotor (not the distributor body) about 20 degrees clockwise. You should do this just as the gear on the distributor gets to the gear on the camshaft. This needs to be done because as you continue to seat the distributor the rotor will move counter clockwise about 20 degrees.
  • When fully stabbed and seated in the oil pump, the distributor base clamp should be flush with the block. If it is not, stop, remove the distributor and try again.
  • Insert the screw to hold the distributor in place on the block.

Confirm the oil pressure
  • Disconnect the spark plugs. You do not want the engine to start up and run but you do want it to turn over.
  • Put the transmission in neutral
  • Turn the ignition to the start position which turns the engine over and confirm you see oil pressure on the gauge. It felt like an eternity but was probably no more than 1.5 minutes.
  • If you don't see oil pressure - go back to "Set the flywheel to 7 DBTDC of compression stroke" and try it again.

My biggest challenge came in three areas, setting the initial alignment of the oil pump slot, keeping the distributor body from moving as I turned the rotor about 20 degrees clockwise and getting the about 20 degrees clockwise correct. On all my unsuccessful attempts, I was just a little off in one (sometimes more) of these areas. The most frustrating was when it would all seat flush but there was no room to rotate the distributor to adjust the timing because the vacuum advance bounced up against the oil filter.

The above steps will get the distributor seated so that the engine will fire right up and be very close (if not dead on) to the stock timing. Take your time, be patient and methodical and enjoy your success when it all comes together.
 
To prime the pump I stripped down an old dist to just the housing & the shaft(no gear on it, no weights,etc) then chuck the shaft to a drill. This way the shaft will be centered in the hole & in the pump slot. To instal a dist I ussually bump the engine w/the starter w/slight down pressure on the dist to seat it. I ussually bump the engine around again to #1 power stroke to confirm the rotor is pointing where it should be w/the timing mark @ 0 on the pointer.
 
I am sure glad I asked these questions. In my case, the engine was just rebuilt, thus no oil in it. No battery hooked up, old spark plugs in just to keep mice out, wiring not started, etc.... I just want to get the dist in so I can move on to something else. I will try to turn the oil pump and hope the tip of the dist falls into place. Since I do 99% of the work alone, it may be one of the 1% times I need a little help. Thanks for all the input.
 
I am sure glad I asked these questions. In my case, the engine was just rebuilt, thus no oil in it. No battery hooked up, old spark plugs in just to keep mice out, wiring not started, etc.... I just want to get the dist in so I can move on to something else. I will try to turn the oil pump and hope the tip of the dist falls into place. Since I do 99% of the work alone, it may be one of the 1% times I need a little help. Thanks for all the input.

That still does not get your oil pump primed (important IMHO)
 
Dumb question but do you have clearance between your dizzy cap and the engine side cover. If your running a big headed dizzy without the dented side cover you may not be able to seat it...
 

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