Rear sliding windows - rebuild (step by step - LOTS of pics) (1 Viewer)

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They should NOT be attached to the welting, that's just for looks. Maybe it adds a bit of strength too when installed over the inside frame of the window and the pinch weld but the welting should not be used as a surface for adhesion.

That's what I figured, but after you adhere the frames directly to the pinch welds, how do you get welting on there? The procedure I've read about here does not seem to conform to the FSM.
 
I'll step aside here, I'm the guy who had one fall out and probably only a good source on what not to do.
 
I'll step aside here, I'm the guy who had one fall out and probably only a good source on what not to do.

Gotcha, I didn't know that. Well what did you do the first time around, use the butyl?
 
Yes, the first time I had a "pro" install them and he used the butyl attached to the welting. That lasted a couple days before they started to pull away. I removed the welting and remounted straight to the pinch weld. I didn't have time to do anything beyond that because I decided my shackle reversal was more important. When I went out to test the SR the window fell off on the highway. Maybe the welting provides a lot more strength than I give it credit for but I'm putting my trust in a body guy this time around. I'll keep you posted.
 
I think I just figured it out. I just looked at my frames again, and it seems you glue them straight to the pinch weld. You then slip the welt over the pinch weld and the innermost lip on the frame, which may hold the frame against the pinch weld a little more than just by the adhesive. THAT MAKES SENSE NOW!! Let's see if someone can confirm that, then I'll go put them on.
 
That's right but as I said "Maybe the welting provides a lot more strength than I give it credit for" but suggest you look into other adhesives as well.
 
That's right but as I said "Maybe the welting provides a lot more strength than I give it credit for" but suggest you look into other adhesives as well.

Now I see what you're saying. Silicone sealants are frowned upon, right?
 
I think I've found the new JCWhitney Part # for the replacement weatherstrip!

I found the packing slip with the old # (184894), did a search - nada. Got creative and by using the dimmensions they gave me, found it again. IIRC it was type 30 - found that. Here it is!

Part # 1JA 184894. I got a JCW Chat CS rep and they confirmed it is the same.

Now i trust that about as far as i can spit - but with the diagram shown (without measuring mine to compare) and looking at my original pics - it at least looks right. I'd appreciate someone confirming when they get theirs, but I think this is it.
JCW_Window_Channel.jpg
 
Rob
Thanks for the massive post on this. I've got sliders coming and this is a huge help - definitely appreciate the effort. These posts along with the one's you did for the LED's have definitely helped me a ton.
Koby
 
I see this discussion is a few years old, but it's very relevant to me right now. I have an 86 4runner and my rear sliders are leaking. I tried following the links above to get to the part numbers on JC Whitney, but none are taking me there.

Does anyone know the part numbers off hand? Thanks!
 
I was able to answer my question. It's the same as Fairchild Industries Item # 0637, Unbeaded Flexible Flocked Rubber, Uncovered, 96 in. Rock Auto sells it.

Sl33py.... what glue did you use to glue to the frame?

Gotta get this done before the Portland rain starts back up again!

Thanks!
 
I'm doing this today on my 4Runner's slider windows. What glue do I use for gluing the new tracks into the frames? Thanks!
 
I use 3M weatherstrip sealant often called "Gorilla Snot"

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
I'm working on doing this job myself and there were some of these little, wedge shaped, rubber dealies between the body and the outer window frame, but a bunch of them had already fallen out along the road over the course of time. Does anybody know where I can get some replacements?

IMG_5835.jpg
 

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