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Old 11-16-04, 06:59 PM   #1
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60's Hydrolic Arm For Rear Hatch

Anyone have any extra set hydrolic arms that hold up the rear hatch on the 60?
I tried to repair them but couldn't find the right replacments for it.
Know where I could get em cheap?
Any help is appreciated.


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Old 11-16-04, 07:15 PM   #2
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Before you buy more, I just wanted to mention that these hydrolic arms are known not to work as well in colder weather (ideal gas law, PV=nRT). If the problem began when the weather got colder, then that is your problem, you can't do anything about it.

However, if they have been gradually getting worse, you can find them on e-bay sometimes.

SOR carries them http://www.sor.com/sor/cat139.tam?xa...x=cat139%2Etam

New ones are a bit stiffer and will help. I would just prolly buy new ones as used ones are going to give you the same greif.

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Old 11-16-04, 07:58 PM   #3
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go aftermarket...i got some for 19$/pr delivered...work better than stock ever could.


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Old 11-17-04, 09:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearlemon
go aftermarket...i got some for 19$/pr delivered...work better than stock ever could.
Where did you get those lifts? How did you get around the dedicated ball stud?
I couldnt find anything at NAPA.
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Old 11-17-04, 09:20 AM   #5
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i cut my old ball out of the old shock and put on the new shock


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Old 11-17-04, 09:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ in California
Where did you get those lifts? How did you get around the dedicated ball stud?
I couldnt find anything at NAPA.
Russ
I oredered a set from JTO for somewhere aroung $50 I think...SACHS is the manufacturer and they came with new ball ends. To remove the old ones, I had to remove the ball from the window / tailgate frame. The new balls screw into the existing threaded holes and the strut just pops on.


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Old 11-17-04, 09:31 AM   #7
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I asked at cruiserparts.net and they said $20 a piece, used. Like Benji said, no guarantee that they'll last much longer though.

There's also a guy who sells them as "but it now" only on eBay. I think his are like $60 a pair.

This is for a 62 though. I imagine they're probably the same for a 60 though.


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Old 11-17-04, 10:42 AM   #8
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I used part number GSNI5200 in the 90 pound rating, from SPDhardware.com. They have other options but, these are black (5200 is the right size the letters change depending on the style). I cut the old ball out of the original strut but SPD may sell those too. Much better, springs right open now.


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Old 11-17-04, 12:15 PM   #9
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We ought to have a good collection of sources before long.. copied from the Wanted forum-

Reference #1
-----------
Hi Listers,
I thought I would share this info for those FJ62 owners that have
sagging rear hatches.

If you've looked for replacements you probably found that they can
be very expensive, even for the aftermarket parts. I found prices
from $50. for aftermarket to over $100. for OEM. And those prices
are EACH!!

Long story short, I did some serious internet searching and found
that many marine suppliers sell hatch lifts. All you have to know
is the extended and compressed length and the lift rate (lbs).

For my 88 FJ62 the extended length is 17", compressed 11", and the
lift rate is 90#. This may be the same for FJ60s but I can't be
positive.

After checking several places the best deal I found was here:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/GEN/GENGS62760.html

Now the good part. The total price for two, including shipping, was
$46.44. Can't beat that with a stick.

One last item, the ends of these lift supports will go right on the
stock ball joint pins. You will have to remove the original
supports along with the pins, then carefully grind the socket end
until you get the pin free. Reinstall the pins in the hatch then
install the new lift support and your done.
--
Cheers,
Gary mailto:gbjork@d-web.com

Reference #2
------------
(from Steve Crase)
Reid Tool
Part# GAS-124 $14.08ea - 90# lift gas cylinder
Part# GAS-202 $ 2.49ea - metal end fitting
reidtool.com

----

and,

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 1061, about $15 each. End fittings on page 1064. Your springs are probably made by Suspa, there are only a few common brands. This summer I did a bunch of research on gas springs for some machines I built, you should be able to get them from various industrial suppliers, especially hydraulic suppliers.


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Old 11-17-04, 12:26 PM   #10
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Sweeeeet!! Thanks!


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Old 12-06-04, 11:15 PM   #11
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I have to say that I got these one's from the shipstore today and have to thank everyone for their help because these work awesome. Installed in like 5 minutes and they work like a champ.

Thanks guys for all your input


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Old 04-20-05, 05:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eshelbyk

<snip>
and,

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 1061, about $15 each. End fittings on page 1064. Your springs are probably made by Suspa, there are only a few common brands. This summer I did a bunch of research on gas springs for some machines I built, you should be able to get them from various industrial suppliers, especially hydraulic suppliers.
The page has move to 1063

Jer


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Old 11-22-06, 08:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airon23 View Post
I have to say that I got these one's from the shipstore today and have to thank everyone for their help because these work awesome. Installed in like 5 minutes and they work like a champ.

Thanks guys for all your input
I just want to reiterate that the ShipStore replacement is TOP NOTCH. And that customer service there (Jim) has been a huge help, especially when I had a small problem.


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Old 11-22-06, 08:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Chip View Post
I oredered a set from JTO for somewhere aroung $50 I think...SACHS is the manufacturer and they came with new ball ends. To remove the old ones, I had to remove the ball from the window / tailgate frame. The new balls screw into the existing threaded holes and the strut just pops on.
I got those same ones for the same price. No measuring, guessing, or hoping that they would fit and work properly. Took about 6 minutes to install both sides. Only took that long because the bolts on the old ones were so soft it was hard to get a bite on them.


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Old 11-22-06, 09:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esh View Post
Reference #2
------------
(from Steve Crase)
Reid Tool
Part# GAS-124 $14.08ea - 90# lift gas cylinder
Part# GAS-202 $ 2.49ea - metal end fitting
reidtool.com
No affiliation, but I got these from Reid supply and they are awesome to say the least. Huge improvement over stock! Like others have mentioned, I cut the ball off with the shock, took old fitting out, tapped hole to fit 5/16ths, installed new.

Good Luck-


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Old 11-22-06, 09:38 AM   #16
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Ditto.

Adding this to the FAQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PAFJ View Post
No affiliation, but I got these from Reid supply and they are awesome to say the least. Huge improvement over stock! Like others have mentioned, I cut the ball off with the shock, took old fitting out, tapped hole to fit 5/16ths, installed new.

Good Luck-


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Old 11-23-06, 09:05 PM   #17
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Reid Supply option

I did the Reid Supply option a few weeks ago and am very pleased. Just do a search and it'll pull up. You have to save the balls out of the OEM struts but they fit in the struts from Reic just fine.
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Old 12-17-06, 06:22 AM   #18
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Thumbs up Pics Rear Hatch Struts

Sure appreciate all the info on replacement tailgate struts!

I used Reid Supply Co., mfg. is ArvinMeritor, label tag is Guden; Suspa has an on-line order system & also sells the ball studs. Don't miss those little spring clips in the attachment parts bag. No instructions, but I found them to hold the strut on when placed appropriately.

I fortunately started out with 1 extra OEM strut, as I rounded off the 12mm base of one stud completely (must have been on there for 18 years now, 8<), rounded a corner on a couple others. Not to worry, as you can use a box end wrench (love those gearwrenches!) when you reinstall them.

I used a rotary tool to cut the studs free , from the pic you can see that those cutoff discs I'd worn down to the size of a dime or less cutting my fan shroud work perfectly, as the mandrel can ride the socket & space the cut away from the stud. By the time I'd cut 9 of them I was getting pretty good, and only nicked one of those I did use.

See studssalute pic for a comparison. FJ62 on L has new struts; FJ62 on R is propped up on a mop handle, so its just slightly higher than where weakened struts held it up.

Stand back when you open the hatch so you don't catch it on the chin. I warned the wife to release the tailgate before feet leave ground. No more noggin knots!
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Old 01-12-07, 11:10 PM   #19
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Just replaced mine today. Bought the pair from Knechts for $45. Too much locktite and had to cut off the balls with my cutting wheel to get a good grip on the little buggers. Went back on with no problems!
Its like heaven again!


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Old 05-15-07, 09:37 AM   #20
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Cross Referencing this thread post for FAQ.


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Old 11-02-07, 08:29 PM   #21
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Chalk another repair up thanks to Reid Supply Co. $52 shipped to my door, w/ 2 struts and 4 new end balls.


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Old 01-07-08, 08:15 PM   #22
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Another happy customer - about $45 from Reid supply.

One note, however. The new struts are slightly longer than OEM. The result is the hatch lifts up higher (which is good) but it lifts until the hatch hits the rear gutter. The rubber window gasket is what actually touches the gutter and it doesn't seem to be harming anything, but if you were able to get struts that were slightly shorter - maybe .5 inches, it would probably be ideal.

But not hitting your head is pretty ideal too!


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Old 01-19-08, 05:36 PM   #23
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I got the shipstore lift struts awhile ago, and just put them in today. I discovered (I have an '88 FJ62) that you can get the ball out without cutting the socket, you just need to get the little wire clip out of it. I fished it out of each of the sockets in like 10 seconds each, max. Not sure if people are still interested, but the shipstore struts are super easy to install, and if you can get the little retaining wire out, the whole job should take less than an hour. I would've taken pics, but once I discovered I didn't have to saw them all apart, I got excited and just finished it up.
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Old 01-26-08, 12:39 PM   #24
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Yukon,Thanks for the fishing out the clip idea.It took me a while to fish out the first one,then it was all downhill from there.Just curious,what did you use? I went through 2 bobbie pins, a couple paper clips, and finally settled on one of my wife's dental tools.Thanks also for the write up,used the reid supply springs.
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Old 03-14-08, 11:36 PM   #25
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what is the best tool to remove the clips from the ball and socket assembly of the Toyota original shock?
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Old 03-15-08, 01:13 AM   #26
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I bought some on ebay, the fittings were correct and they were about 42 including freight. Guy was out of New York, it was the Sachs brand.


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Old 03-15-08, 03:50 AM   #27
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check out McMaster-Carr, i just bout some w/ the ball ends for $40 for both. 20 minute install. boutgh the 17 inchers rated at 90lbs
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Old 03-15-08, 06:49 PM   #28
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First off, shipstore.com sucks!!!! I ordered several months ago and never got anything. They never responded to any of my phone calls or emails until I threatened to dispute the charges and contact the BBB. Finally they em