What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (29 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Desert off-roading trip with great friends (except for the XJ Jeep who to his own pleasure had to pull 2 Toyota's out, granted he broke down more than i can count :D :D )

Quite a hot day (32 Degrees celcius) had too cool off after some heavy loads on the trail.
I suspect with the hot weather and the diesel pump not properly calibrated my IGT is too high, probably need a rebuild soon as the pump seems unable to even start the engine at a deep incline.

My Ridge Rider compressor inhaled enough sand to build a small castle :S
Will do a proper clean and see how much damage it sustained :(
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-03 at 14.03.27_3390e8d6.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2024-03-03 at 13.55.47_c96ef3e4.jpg
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-03 at 13.55.47_6a068bb1.jpg
 
Installed the fuse link kit from Cruiser Trash. The mounting bracket that is included made this a super clean install. The second picture is where it plugs into the factory harness in place of the factory fusible link. Right from the start I noticed my at idle voltage improved from 13.2 to 14.4 , I did not expect that. I also noticed when driving my charging gauge reads a touch higher and does not drop when I turn the headlights on. Very happy and money well spent. I replaced my factory link because I noticed it was getting warm to the touch. Now I realize their must have been some resistance in the charging circuit.
1709568544778.png




1709568584122.png
 
took a photo. we had some snow (in fact all of the snow on the truck was from one night).

i hate seeing it just sit there but until i find someone i can get to rebuild my engine it’s just gotta rest (this spring i’ll at least be able to get it inside again so it doesn’t get weather beaten any more than it has
IMG_7780.jpeg
 
Well o ring is shot, the valves are bent and the piston lining is warped.

How all this sand passed the filter is beyond me.

Will see if i can replace o ring, clean it and try again.

IMG-20240304-WA0034.jpg
20240304_194857.jpg
20240304_194911.jpg
20240304_194937.jpg
 
Installed the fuse link kit from Cruiser Trash. The mounting bracket that is included made this a super clean install. The second picture is where it plugs into the factory harness in place of the factory fusible link. Right from the start I noticed my at idle voltage improved from 13.2 to 14.4 , I did not expect that. I also noticed when driving my charging gauge reads a touch higher and does not drop when I turn the headlights on. Very happy and money well spent. I replaced my factory link because I noticed it was getting warm to the touch. Now I realize their must have been some resistance in the charging circuit.
View attachment 3573659



View attachment 3573660
I did the exact same upgrade w/ my 1987 FJ60 w/ the same results. Not cheap but money well spent and the owner of Cruser Trash is very helpful. Thanks for posting.
 
Installed the fuse link kit from Cruiser Trash. The mounting bracket that is included made this a super clean install. The second picture is where it plugs into the factory harness in place of the factory fusible link. Right from the start I noticed my at idle voltage improved from 13.2 to 14.4 , I did not expect that. I also noticed when driving my charging gauge reads a touch higher and does not drop when I turn the headlights on. Very happy and money well spent. I replaced my factory link because I noticed it was getting warm to the touch. Now I realize their must have been some resistance in the charging circuit.
View attachment 3573659



View attachment 3573660
Can you share the wiring diagram? This seems like a great upgrade i have the exact same issues
 
Can you share the wiring diagram? This seems like a great upgrade i have the exact same issues
@FlyingMuleRider Thanks for the kind words

Hey @Vulkyn I see in your signature that you have a 1HDT in your 60. My device is specifically tailored to a stock FJ60 with a 2F and may or may not work for a 1HDT. If you're interested PM me and we can talk it over. The wiring diagram for it is the same as the stock wiring diagram, it directly replaces the fusible link. One ring terminal gets attached to the battery lug and a connector mates with the connector on the harness. I have an option for a larger alternator charge cable, and that attaches via ring terminal to the alternator B+ post. That is significantly larger than the 10awg cable Toyota originally used and provides the most voltage increase (less cable resistance). The basic kit does see an idle voltage increase, just not as much.

Overview of what's included:
-Custom bracket makes the whole thing a direct bolt-in.
-Overland Metric plated hardware
-All wiring is plug and play
-Waterproof rated for direct high pressure spray (although to be safe I wouldn't push your luck)
-6awg main battery cable and optional upgraded alternator charge cable (non-upgraded alt charge wire is 10awg like stock)
-Fuses are Littelfuse, not Amazon junk - they have verifiable datasheets
-Install takes about 15-20 minutes
Screen Shot 2024-03-05 at 8.59.48 AM.png


Here's a photo of the first one, installed in my truck. It's been there for a while now so it's dirty.
Screen Shot 2024-03-05 at 9.00.36 AM.png



For those who have asked recently, this doesn't work for a 3FE, 2H, or 12HT as there are more wires in the fusible link (more fuses) or different fuse values. The bigger issue round air cleaner mounted to the right side inner fender also prevents my bracket from attaching in the spot I designed it for. There's a chance it could work for some LS swaps or other "off label" applications with this fuse panel and bracket, but that's a case-by-case basis. Yes, I'm working on a 62 variant. Toyota's poor use of space in the 3FE engine bay makes it difficult to find an ideal spot to locate the fuse panel. I've drawn up a few designs and done a few tests and I'm not happy with any of them. Still working on a few new possible locations though.
 
I designed and 3D printed a threaded mount for some Anderson connectors that fits in the hole next to the inspection lamp socket . I used spade connectors so I could reuse the existing wiring that ran to the socket without cutting into it. I plan on using this for some auxiliary radios, on occasion or lighting.
IMG_4415.jpeg
IMG_4417.jpeg
 
Another 2 years of goodness! Passed smog again . Changed oil , lubed and getting ready for wheeling season.. Stopped by my buddy’s to see his new project(little brother 😂)

IMG_1384.jpeg


IMG_1387.jpeg
 
Holy $hit have working AC! Just in time for summer. My 60 was a non AC model. I was able to source all the the factory components to make it work.

Still working out some kinks with the AC amp. But it’s bypassed and working. Just need to make sure I don’t freeze the evaporator.


IMG_1227.jpeg
 
Holy $hit have working AC! Just in time for summer. My 60 was a non AC model. I was able to source all the the factory components to make it work.

Still working out some kinks with the AC amp. But it’s bypassed and working. Just need to make sure I don’t freeze the evaporator.


View attachment 3586724
I kept burning out the AC amp so mine is bypassed too....has been for years. I just cycle it on and off manually. Kind of a pain, but mine really blows cold which is great since I am in Texas. Would love to find a solution so if you do something outside of the box you could share please do. I keep a thermometer sticking out one of my vents and can see when the air is close to freezing and just cycle the compressor on and off with the blower on.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom