There is still some work to do on the 2F before it goes to its new home.
There wasn’t much left to do before it was pulled. I’ll reach out when the 2F goes back in!
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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That’s pretty awesome. Let me know when you want to go out for the test voyage. I’m pretty handy on the water.
iptman
SILVER Star
For sure! I've never launched anything but a jon boat so yeah....I'm going to need some help.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
“I had no idea a 60 could steer so well.” That’s what I thought as I returned from my shakedown run after getting all the air bubbles out of the steering system after reinstalling the steering gear box. Admittedly, the old box was leaking pretty bad and the adjustment screw had been maxed out, I guess I was just used to the sloppy steering maybe after driving it for so many years. It drives so nice now; it's well-mannered and even holds the line when you let go of the wheel for a second (that was not an advisable course of action prior). Big thanks to Chris @Jakes40 for the assist with the replacement inner shaft yoke. .
The batteries had lost enough charge that the truck wouldn't start so they got replaced. I couldn't ignore the mud that was still everywhere under the batteries from that mudhole at FC, so the trays got pulled and the space was cleaned up properly. One job turns into three kind of situation.
I highly recommend rebuilding your leaky, wandering, steering gear box. I had redhead steering do mine.
. The batteries had lost enough charge that the truck wouldn't start so they got replaced. I couldn't ignore the mud that was still everywhere under the batteries from that mudhole at FC, so the trays got pulled and the space was cleaned up properly. One job turns into three kind of situation.
I highly recommend rebuilding your leaky, wandering, steering gear box. I had redhead steering do mine.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Excellent! I just got a spare box for mine yesterday from a forum member, may just send that and the 105 sector kit to RedHead and have it done right!“I had no idea a 60 could steer so well.” That’s what I thought as I returned from my shakedown run after getting all the air bubbles out of the steering system after reinstalling the steering gear box. Admittedly, the old box was leaking pretty bad and the adjustment screw had been maxed out, I guess I was just used to the sloppy steering maybe after driving it for so many years. It drives so nice now; it's well-mannered and even holds the line when you let go of the wheel for a second (that was not an advisable course of action prior). Big thanks to Chris @Jakes40 for the assist with the replacement inner shaft yoke.
The batteries had lost enough charge that the truck wouldn't start so they got replaced. I couldn't ignore the mud that was still everywhere under the batteries from that mudhole at FC, so the trays got pulled and the space was cleaned up properly. One job turns into three kind of situation.
I highly recommend rebuilding your leaky, wandering, steering gear box. I had redhead steering do mine.
View attachment 3570617View attachment 3570618View attachment 3570619View attachment 3570620View attachment 3570621
iptman
SILVER Star
Look in to Blue Top steering gears as well. The story goes it was started by former Redhead guys who split off when Redhead QA allegedly went down hill. I went with Blue Top for my 2500 Suburban gear box. It also helped they were cheaper than Redhead.
Motive Power Bleeder. The club has one. Might be with @Stumpalama .
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Id be wary of Redhead rebuilds on an 80 steering box. We got three in a row with the same leak. After shipping them back and forth for them to fix it, they finally just sent us a new box. They all leaked from the adjusting bolt on top. I even tried new Toyota seals on there and no luck. I'm guessing the teflon rings inside were either knicked or sized wrong.
DuckBone
SILVER Star
^Any recommendations besides Redhead? I have 40 PS box that I’d like to get rebuilt?
iptman
SILVER Star
West Texas Off-road is talked about a lot in the 40 forum.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Ugh, good to know...may need to check out Blue Top or just bite the bullet and try to do it myself. I got a quote back quickly from Redhead for $556 plus tax/shipping and an extra $110 for additional ports if I want them. This is with my OEM spare box and 105 kit plus a spare gasket kit. Honestly, this is not a priority item for me, just a "beef it up" option from parts that I collected in anticipation.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
JakeisbadatThis
SILVER Star
I feel like a wandering hobo when ever i pop back into this place to give an update on the passed around bj70 from Canada.
I started doing the water pump replacement and while waiting for parts i decided to start stripping paint, and i had mentioned i found bondo and rust holes that had been cleaned out. The parts arrived from RADD cruisers up in Canada and that dude is smart, i'm contacting him again in a couple weeks to get a clutch. I got the water pump from cruiserparts cause it was cheaper. But i wish i had bought it from RADD as its a single dude operation and he will talk directly to you with recommendations.
I had the radiator re-cored and they put a 4 core in it, this thing stays cool at 2k rpm with no load now so it took awhile to burp. He said the old rad 3 core was plugged halfway and had a lot of "Chunckage" inside of it. I was waiting forever for the new 82c thermostat to open and when it finally did, a cloud of nasty clouded into the funnel. If you look at it, you can see how its dark instead of the vibrant green coolant usually is. I'll be adding a coolant filter in the future but its runs like a top again.
With it all back together i decided to keep stripping away the paint, so i wanted to take apart some stuff inside so i could pull lights and vents.
How cool are land cruisers!!! they help you by taking them selves apart for you, really saved a bunch of time by not having to spin this bolt out and just giving it a yank instead. See the arrows, thats all the patch panels on just this one wheel well, the top one has fiber glass in with it to? I'm not sure why but its messy and i'm guessing its to plug pin holes.
Forgot to mention i replaced the leaking coolant valve that controls flow to the heater core, top one was the fitting threaded into the block, i don't know how it was staying together in this condition, because again, a firm yank and it was free.
I don't know how much raptor liner it takes to paint a bj70, but i know you need three jugs of 64oz citristrip to get it off. Thats as far as i made it, i'm going to finish stripping it so i can see how much rust is underneath. Taking off the licenses plate light, i found bondo bubbled up and a huge chunk of rust underneath. I hit it with a mallet and tried to get as much off as i could before putting on the stripper. I'm gonna put a patina sealer on it to seal in the charm as i get the suspension dialed in, i'm gonna try to make it to that offroad meat up someone was posting about for March.
OH and i totally forgot, i didn't know toyota spelled some of there stuff "ToyoDa", what a quirky thing to see on the steering box as i poke speed holes in my frame with a scribe.
I started doing the water pump replacement and while waiting for parts i decided to start stripping paint, and i had mentioned i found bondo and rust holes that had been cleaned out. The parts arrived from RADD cruisers up in Canada and that dude is smart, i'm contacting him again in a couple weeks to get a clutch. I got the water pump from cruiserparts cause it was cheaper. But i wish i had bought it from RADD as its a single dude operation and he will talk directly to you with recommendations.
I had the radiator re-cored and they put a 4 core in it, this thing stays cool at 2k rpm with no load now so it took awhile to burp. He said the old rad 3 core was plugged halfway and had a lot of "Chunckage" inside of it. I was waiting forever for the new 82c thermostat to open and when it finally did, a cloud of nasty clouded into the funnel. If you look at it, you can see how its dark instead of the vibrant green coolant usually is. I'll be adding a coolant filter in the future but its runs like a top again.
With it all back together i decided to keep stripping away the paint, so i wanted to take apart some stuff inside so i could pull lights and vents.
How cool are land cruisers!!! they help you by taking them selves apart for you, really saved a bunch of time by not having to spin this bolt out and just giving it a yank instead. See the arrows, thats all the patch panels on just this one wheel well, the top one has fiber glass in with it to? I'm not sure why but its messy and i'm guessing its to plug pin holes.
Forgot to mention i replaced the leaking coolant valve that controls flow to the heater core, top one was the fitting threaded into the block, i don't know how it was staying together in this condition, because again, a firm yank and it was free.
I don't know how much raptor liner it takes to paint a bj70, but i know you need three jugs of 64oz citristrip to get it off. Thats as far as i made it, i'm going to finish stripping it so i can see how much rust is underneath. Taking off the licenses plate light, i found bondo bubbled up and a huge chunk of rust underneath. I hit it with a mallet and tried to get as much off as i could before putting on the stripper. I'm gonna put a patina sealer on it to seal in the charm as i get the suspension dialed in, i'm gonna try to make it to that offroad meat up someone was posting about for March.
OH and i totally forgot, i didn't know toyota spelled some of there stuff "ToyoDa", what a quirky thing to see on the steering box as i poke speed holes in my frame with a scribe.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
One day you’ll look back at this and laugh! You’re making some good progress, keep it up!
DominicanFZJ80
Getting there...
Well, nothing like death wobble to instigate a near complete front end rebuild…
New TREs, track bar bushings, front hubs, bearings, and flanges. Wheels balanced and alignment done. Wobble better but still there between 40-45mph. On to shocks, steering dampener/stabilizer, and reinstalling front sway-bar. And it’s not the driveshaft, that’s been pulled and wobble still there; DS eliminated as culprit. Fun times! Oh and replacing rear shocks while I’m at it.
Random photo drop:
New TREs, track bar bushings, front hubs, bearings, and flanges. Wheels balanced and alignment done. Wobble better but still there between 40-45mph. On to shocks, steering dampener/stabilizer, and reinstalling front sway-bar. And it’s not the driveshaft, that’s been pulled and wobble still there; DS eliminated as culprit. Fun times! Oh and replacing rear shocks while I’m at it.
Random photo drop:
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Got my 240v 50A line run to the garage....ready to burn some wire with real power! I was doing some practice on 1/8" plate and the 120v 20A option just wasn't cutting it (nice to have the option in a pinch though). I want to weld my radius arm plates & rear lower control arm skids to start before Relic and then my DeltaVS steering box reinforcements once I get the box rebuilt, but not rushing on the steering stuff at the moment as I'm not having any leaks or problems, just want to beef it up.
This will also run my plasma cutter too...
This will also run my plasma cutter too...
TRDdrew
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2019
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- Messages
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- Southern Maryland
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
ah prepping for that diy bumper kit i see
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Don't worry, you'll be first on the list to check with if the Kaymar comes off!
