My 97 LC 2JZ manual swap build thread (1 Viewer)

[Ali SC3]

This one is project Supra Cruiser!
First it was a fully working 97 Land Cruiser... and now it is a 97 Land cruiser with a 2jz sitting in it

Got the combo mounted as far back and high up as possible.
Still need to clean everything up, test fitting things first to make sure everything will fit.
Moving on to getting everything connected fuel lines, PS lines, AC lines, and of course the supra engine harness needs to be spliced with the 80 body.

I did test mount a 2UZ / A750F originally but overall decided to pull that out and go 2JZ manual instead.
The 2JZ should fit better since it had an inline 6 1fz in there before, just a little smaller in every direction

.
First part is to get it in and running as an na first, then I'll move on to the turbo side of things which will be setup for quick spool and low end torque.

I know the 2jzge has a smaller displacement than the 1fz and it is possible to turbo a 1fz...
But a turbo 2jzge setup for low end torque should be close or better down low, and up top it will have way more power.

Plans so far:
2JZGE na-t swap rear sump (gte hg with arps installed)
AX15 (R series) manual transmission conversion w/ OEM transfer case
Rebuild everything that needs rebuilding
Lift, paint job and more goodies at the end!

 

[simple]

Cool project. Isn't that a Lexus GS300 engine? Starting with that because it's cheaper than a true 2JZ-GTE? What engine management are you using and have you used it before?

 

[Ali SC3]

Thanks, the 2jzge is found in non turbo supras and sc300s which are rear sump, and in the gs300 which are considered mid/front sump.
This one came out of a USDM non turbo Supra. I am going to be running the TT ecu mod with a USDM 97 Supra TT ecu.
I have setup 2jzge turbos different ways before from factory JDM TT ecus using the TT ecu mod to using standalones.
I have an aem I may get it running on first just because I can see all the inputs and outputs that way to make sure its all wired up right.
My plan is to use the 97 USDM supra turbo ecu since this LC is a 97 I think it will be a good match and the obd2 connector should work and everything

I usually go single turbo so buying a 2jzgte isn't really better as by the time you remove the twins you still have to deal with lower compression 8.5:1 versus an na-t setup with a tt headgasket will be more in the mid 9 range. The intake and sensor setup is a little better but not worth the price difference to me, I actually prefer the ge intake for this type of setup as the crossover intake has an ACIS valve like the 2uz and 1fz, and it gives a noticeable torque boost over a FFIM proven on the dyno on SF.

I am going for getting the torque as soon as possible, so small turbo, higher compression, and the crossover intake will all help with that.

 

[simple]

cool didn't know the sumps changed on the various 2JZ models. That whole scene is interesting. I'm very knowledgeable on the 3SGTE from my exploits.

 

[Squeegee]

God 1fzs are huge

 

[audi2nr]

Looking forward to see this thing run, I'm pretty sure I remember seeing you on sf ages ago. That poor ax15 though 2.5 tons, big tires, and awd won't be friendly to it. My sc had an r154 and it took a beating and handled roughly the same amount of torque my h151f/ turbo 1fz makes but there's a reason the h151f internals are double the size. Cheers!

 

[Ali SC3]

God 1fzs are huge

They really are, if it wasn't for the removable front crossmember I would have left it in there honestly.

Looking forward to see this thing run, I'm pretty sure I remember seeing you on sf ages ago. That poor ax15 though 2.5 tons, big tires, and awd won't be friendly to it. My sc had an r154 and it took a beating and handled roughly the same amount of torque my h151f/ turbo 1fz makes but there's a reason the h151f internals are double the size. Cheers!

Yeah I was active on Club lexus and supraforums for a long time, I started moving into the trucks and LC side of things over the years, had a 85 extracab pickup that I sold unfortunately, manual swapped a 1st gen 4 door taco that is in colorado somewhere now, even had one of the first 2.7t swaps on a b7 audi which was sold and later wrecked but that thing drove perfect.

I think the Ax15 will be fine, they throw it behind LS swaps all the time in heavier vehicles.
The SC is actually pretty heavy too and alot of weight of the LC went away with the 1FZ and stock automatic which are both huge and heavy.
I am driving the AX15 right now in my 100 series conversion with a 2uz vvti and it handles the weight of the 100 just fine, but haven't loaded it up fully yet.
I wouldn't say the H150/151f internals are double the size, they are bigger though for sure but maybe it was way overbuilt like alot of older toyota stuff was.
I really think I will pop an axle shaft or something else in the driveline would go before the transmission. I don't think it will be the center diff that thing is beefy!
I plan to thoroughly test and dyno it with some big tires, shooting for around 400 awhp so if it is not up to the task we will all find out together =)

Even if they do somehow wear out prematurely which I think will be more of a user error situation, the best part is you can have a brand new AX15 from Aisin drop shipped to your front door from various vendors. Just unbolt and bolt on the transfer case adapter and all the bellhousing and clutch stuff and swap it over.

 

[06reg4x4]

Is this the same ali with the wealth of knowledge on the forums for nat stuff? If so your old posts helped me a lot on my other car.

 

[Ali SC3]

Yup same Ali SC3 from Club lexus and Supraforums. Glad to help out a fellow nat enthusiast!

 

[Ali SC3]

So it turns out you can just order a 80 series clutch pedal from Japan and bolt it in after you drill some holes.
Still need to modify the brake pedal unless I can find one of those also.

Clutch master cylinder bolted in with firewall reinforcement plate

Made a new cover for the console area to keep things clean and quiet in the cab (well quiet as possible).
Will be changing to a Toyota shifter that is angled back instead of up, but placement is looking good where it enters the console area

Still working on stuff for the swap and also half way through disassembling the front knuckles to rebuild them with new birfs.
Will post progress as I get there.

 

[audi2nr]

Nice progress! New brake pedals are nla and the manual brake pedal has a slight kink in it toward the gas pedal as well. I cut my the pedal off bent the pedal slightly to the right and cut the pedal to fit the oem pedal cover, then welded the pedal to the arm.
Here's mine

 

[Ali SC3]

Got both knuckles completely rebuilt and back together, passenger knuckle had a busted lower stud so replaced the whole knuckle and new studs.
The dissasembly and assembly isn't that bad, but getting the old grease off of everything takes forever and not a job I want to do again too soon.
Also put new Birfs in there while I was at it.

I have new OEM extended brake lines on the way then I can put the wheels back on and see what height I am settling at with the new engine trans setup.
I will be lifting it but the new engine and trans weigh so much less I don't want to over lift the front so plan is to get some measurements and choose from there.

I am not too far away from getting it started, need to start working on the harness it has a couple connectors that need repairing, will be adding the vvti coils and ignitor wiring to it so I can run vvti coilpacks instead of the distributor, then I'll install it in the car and merge it to the 1fz body plugs.

I already stripped down the 1FZ harness and separated out the transfer case wires back to the ecu and body plugs, so I should be able to merge the supra harness body plug wires to the 1fz body plugs so it can plug into the car. That is the plan at least.

I am also working on a slimmer brake booster solution as the stock one gest in the way of the intake where I want to place the engine.
Ideally going to mount a ibooster gen 1 on a custom plate, but I have been thinking of making a second plate for just a manual brakes master cylinder.
Here is an early prototype for the 4 bolt ibooster flange pattern printed in plastic

Working on a new 2 bolt one that is more universal for the ibooster models and 2 bolt manual master cylinders also but need to get some parts in first.
Final versions will be cut in steel the plastic prints are just for testing and measuring.

 

[FMC80]

Lmao, talk about OCD overkill. “Broke a stud, replaced drivetrain”.

New knuckles look so good though. Like mustache rides, I want some!

 

[J1000]

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this build! Your 5-speed 100 series is totally awesome. Just wanted to say I already coined the term Super Cruiser for my build! I'll let it slide

 

[VSTL]

I come back and check for updates on this build, constantly. I'm excited to hopefully learn a little bit about the 2JZ. I like watching people be good at what they do.

 

[Ali SC3]

Lmao, talk about OCD overkill. “Broke a stud, replaced drivetrain”.

New knuckles look so good though. Like mustache rides, I want some!

Thanks, That's the side with the steering arm and drag link connected so I figured I will sleep better at night with a new knuckle lol.

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this build! Your 5-speed 100 series is totally awesome. Just wanted to say I already coined the term Super Cruiser for my build! I'll let it slide

Thanks really appreciate it! Haha I didn't realize that, I could change it to Supra Cruiser if that one isn't taken =)

I come back and check for updates on this build, constantly. I'm excited to hopefully learn a little bit about the 2JZ. I like watching people be good at what they do.

Thanks!! I should get some more pics and build info up soon.

I got a chance to throw on a new Aisin waterpump and timing belt kit, new cam seals and oem cam gears

To fit the oil filter I had to remove the oil filter housing as it interfered with the drivers motor mount.
To solve the clearance issue I opted to direct mount the filter to the block which is becoming a popular mod online.
I may run an oil cooler and relocate kit down the line but wanted to simplify for now.
Getting rid of the oil filter housing gets rid of the union bolt which is a popular oil feed for the turbo, so instead I used adapters on the 2jz factory oil pressure light spot to use a 3AN line and that runs to a Tee with the 80 series oil pressure sensor on the T, and the other end will go around the back of the block and on to the turbo (for now its capped).
What is neat is the oil pressure gauge on the dash will be reading the line going to the turbo, so if there are oiling issues I should see it right away (even if the number isn't accurate should give a good idea of oil pressure).

I repainted the valve covers yesterday and will start working on the harness soon so I can start the final assembly.
With the crossover intake manifold once the valve covers go on they wont be coming off for a while.
Also got the fuel done, mounted a fuel filter under where the brake booster was, stock line from tank goes in and then a 6AN line to the fuel rail.
Using the Stock return line with new soft fuel line from the regulator to the factory hardline. The 80 has a smaller diameter return line so needs to be stepped down.

I also got extended oem brake lines all around for the 3 frame lines.
These are just the 4 caliper lines decided to replace also cause they were looking tired.

I'll post pictures of the harness once I dive into it and any other progress. Was focusing on finishing the 100 before but it's complete now.

 

[Ali SC3]

So I got the Valve covers resprayed and accessories back on, think it's looking pretty good so far.
It looks so short compared to the 1FZ in there, but the intake and turbo will help with that later =)

Been on to the wiring portion for a bit. Noticed something interesting about the 80 series ecu setup.

Alot of the toyota engine harnesses I have worked on usually have most wires between the ecu and body going through the "body plugs" which are usually extra white, grey or orange connectors. This 97 LC has 2 white body plugs, and they seem to hold mostly wires that run to the 2 transfer case connectors at the back of the engine.

What is different is that the important swap wires (IGSW, BATT, MRLY, W, SDL, A/C, SPD, TACO, STA, +B, STP) are all on ecu plug "D" which you would think would be part of the engine harness like ecu plug A, B and C... but ECU plug D actually stays in the chassis and is separate from the engine harness.

With the engine harness pulled there is still plug D going into the 97 LC ecu

So the LC is setup a little different but it is convenient a lot of the important wires are in one place.
Normally I would make connections to the new harness through the original chassis body plugs, but in this case I will need to wire in some connectors between plug D and my new harness to keep it clean and detachable as I probably can't get a matching male plug for ecu plug D. Some large weather pack connectors should do the trick.

Another difference is a/c , alternator and the stock ignitor and coil wiring are on the chassis side.
On a supra those all go through the engine harness in some way.
Right now it looks like the best way to handle these is to extend the stock chassis wiring to the a/c and the alternator, and tie back to ecu signals as needed.
The coil and ignitor are going to run through the supra engine harness like a stock supra has it, and will tie back into the chassis as needed.

Hopefully I haven't put anyone to sleep yet with all the wiring talk.

I have unwrapped the entire 80 harness and separated the body plug to transfer case wires.

I have also added vvti coils and ignitor to the original supra harness so I can run vvti coil on plug ignition (better for boost).
Ill get a good picture of the supra harness later.

So next step I will be merging the supra harness with the transfer case harness for the final harness.
Then Final step is to make all the connections from the final harness to plug D, and also a few from the body plugs.
I will also add wiring for a wideband as I decided to just run an aem standalone at first so not going to wire up the extra heated o2s or maf just yet (they kind of go go the passenger side anyways versus crossing over to drivers side like the stock harness).

Wish me luck lol.

 

[Ali SC3]

Been a while since the last update and made some progress.

Got the pedal trimmed and linked up to the I booster unit.

Got more things mounted and hooked up, went with a Precision 6262 turbo after a lot of back and forth.

The old radiator was starting to go so I went with an aluminum radiator and fitted IS300 fans to it.
Wired in 3 relays to the AEM that give the fans a low and high speed depending on adjustable temps.

Installed a Slee 4" lift with caster plates to get some oil pan clearance and plenty of room for 35's

I had to get the driveshafts lengthened and shortened 3.5" as the drivetrain is shorter so I also got them rebuilt at the same time.

Also had a chance to finish up the main shifter mount and the transfer case shifter mount.
The main shifter is a combo of the upper part of a tacoma shifter and the lower half of the ax15 shifter, cut / welded and came out at a decent angle I think.
I reused a 100 series transfer case shifter as its shorter and easier to retrofit, the knob sits higher than stock I may go back and shorten it later.

I may see if I can make an inlay that fits in the stock console or I may look into getting the delta one later haven't decided.
For now I can at least finish up the carpet and everything else on the inside when the time comes.

Need to get the turbo oil lines hooked up and some sort of exhaust on there so I can move it and test things.
I have a rear borla catback that is 2.5" and will be making a 3" exhaust with two 3" cali cats from the downpipe to the catback.

I'll leave you all with a video of one of the first starts before I got to installing the turbo, oil pressure gauge is working and so far so good.
I need to dial in the tune but first need to get an exhaust and o2 sensor installed.

 

[RC51]

Updates?

 

[Ali SC3]

I decided to adapt a new oem brake master cylinder to the ibooster unit instead of using the the donor brake cylinder as originally planned, this way all the lines can stay oem with just a couple slight bends. So the only thing different than stock is electronic booster versus vacuum booster, end extended brake lines for the lift. It also looks better this way I think.

Got the intercooler mounted and piping setup except for one last coupler that just arrived.
I wanted it to be front mounted but still have room to put a winch.
So this is the best way I could come up with to fit it behind the grill and not have the piping sit too low.

I also got started on the exhaust and made it past where it crosses over the frame.
Tried to keep everything tucked up as possible but not a lot of space with 3" piping.
I have a Borla 3" muffler and stainless tip for the cat back section I started welding, will post progress on that when I get back to it.

Will get the last intercooler couplers on and take a video of it firing up and running with everything together.
Still have a long list of things to do but its getting there