Builds Rebuild of Trusty (1 Viewer)

[POPO AGIE]

I pulled the head today to see if I would have better luck turning the motor over. I found out that there was a water leak and the cylinders had rusted.

Broke the head bolts loose and removed the rocker arm assembly, remove the water pump and the thermostat housing.

Then, because of the one stud that would not come out I used wedges to lift the head high enough to almost clear the top of the stud.

Did not want to lift the head like I did in my 20s so I got as close as I could with the tractor forks

Got the head off the stud

Slid the head off of the wedges to the forks

 

[POPO AGIE]

Head out on the floor.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Rust in the cylinders

 

[middlecalf]

Wow, what a job! Great work using that "green" machine . Is that stud standard on a F155? I thought they were all bolts originally.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I don't know if that stud is standard didn't think it was standard, may have been for the remote oil filter. I was working in the Portland, OR and the original 2F had the head milled 0.50" and after a year the rest of the valves were burnt. I was told I could not get another head. We found an FJ40 with two motors near Mt St Helens and put the better of the two motors in mine. I don't know the history of it before it was dropped in. I used my 2F intake and header and carb and it ran about the same as the 2F.

 

[mrboatman]

That stud should be a head bolt

 

[fjc-man]

Did some cleaning today. Power washed the front and rear axles. Then did a metal prep on the front axle to get it ready to paint.

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Put a metal prep on the front axle before paining

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Cleaned the clutch inspection cover before shipping to another member.

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With that 3F bell housing you need a clutch cover with the staggered bolt pattern like this one. PM me if you need it.

 

[POPO AGIE]

With that 3F bell housing you need a clutch cover with the staggered bolt pattern like this one. PM me if you need it.View attachment 3174740

I just got mine back from the Powder Coater. I still hope to get the 2F bell housing and flywheel removed from the 155F

 

[mrboatman]

Looks like time for a 2x4 and a 3 pound hammer to help them pistons go up and down and turn the crank.

 

[POPO AGIE]

That stud should be a head bolt

I think you are right. There was a plate with two pipe spacers in the first two holes being held with the two studs. The studs were the only ones with anti seize. The plate had what was left of a bad weld on the edge.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Looks like time for a 2x4 and a 3 pound hammer to help them pistons go up and down and turn the crank.

I have a 10 lb sledge and a 20 lb sledge but 5 and 2 are at the bottom of the stroke, 3 and 4 close to the top of the stroke. 1 and 6 are in the stroke. Another head will reach t3 or 4. 6 is too close to the firewall so I can hit the head with the other hammer. Hitting 3 and 4 is hard not to hit the edge of the cylinder bore.

I bought some MAPP gas, but can't generate enough heat to do much good. Need a rosebud and Oxy/act to get the needed heat.

Yesterday I used a large brass drift and a 3 lb brass hammer and nothing would give.

 

[mrboatman]

Thats what the 2x4 is for. Use it as brass drift. That thing is stuck.

 

[POPO AGIE]

That is why I was using 2 sledge hammers. One head on the piston top and the other hammer to hit with.

 

[mrboatman]

Wow I guess 2 options. 1 pull pan and unbolt the rods. 2 bust the top of the pistons out to free up the rods.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I am going to have to wait until I have the axles back under the frame and suspension bolted up, because now it is sitting on 6 jack stands and cribbing under the block. The impact on the pistons is sending shock to the points where the frame is sitting on the jack stands and don't want it to walk off of the stands.

 

[middlecalf]

Are you attempting to salvage the block?

 

[POPO AGIE]

No just the bell housing and the flywheel.

 

[middlecalf]

So then why do you need to spin the motor?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I need to remove the pressure plate and the clutch, then the flywheel so I have access to the 4 internal bolts to the block.
If you know of another way to get to the internal bolts I would love to hear it.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I went out to install the new axle shafts in my rear axle and found that the splines in the differential are too tight to the seat but they engage. They don't go in far enough to install the drive flanges.

Does anyone know if there is a difference between Lock Right 30 splines and Toyota Splines? When I ordered them I informed them I had a Lock Right.