What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (30 Viewers)

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Got caught up on my to-do list this weekend. Flip-flopped my shower awning and hi-lift so that I can get into my RTT without having to put out either of my awnings. Ladder still can't reach the bungs on the tent itself but I just hook it to the hi-lift.
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Moved my traction boards from my driver's side panel to my roof rack and added another storage box. I now have one on each side. Toiletries on my passenger side with the shower awning and air up/down tools, winch gear, etc. on the driver side.

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Test fit a Wilco hitchswing on the back. Wife and kids want to take their bikes on trips now so I added another swing-out. This works great, but heavy. Definitely not staying on the car all the time.

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This might be unusual, but I swapped out a Switchpro 9100 for the Garmin Power switch. I've had bugs with the Switchpro since I've owned the truck. A few times it just wouldn't respond. Then it died altogether, though I was able to reset it. About a month ago, it died again and couldn't be revived. The "app" is absolute trash with tons of connectivity issues and very complicated in general. I spoke to Switchpro and for what it's worth, they were good. They said to send it in and they'd have a look, replace what's necessary. They even were forthright about the app being dated and having issues with Android 10 and whatever the current IOS is. I'll be sending it in.

Meanwhile, I had been running the Garmin Power Switch in the 62 without issue for a year. The 62 is currently on the IR, so I thought, why not swap them out? I love the Garmin... control everything from your phone or ipad. No wires to the cab, very simple and clean.

Rather than gutting the whole system, I snipped the switch pro harness at the control module that resides under my hood. It's basically where you plug an "extension cord" of all your accessories into, which you then run a wire to the buttons in the cab. So I snipped it and leveraged the SP cord to keep wires neat, then replaced the module with the Power Switch, wiring each accessory (aux battery solenoid; compressors; rear locker; light bar) to the Garmin. Took about 2 hours to do it neatly, as I had to remove the battery, triple check the wiring, mount the Garmin, etc

Fired her up and everything worked immediately. That's always a nice feeling. Shamu is currently at full capability.
can you use the garmin without having your truck in ACC or acc2 mode?

I have the ARB Linx but to turn on my scene lights I gotta run acc2 and that always makes me battery conscious. I have a switch pro as for a 3 way in the back but still need acc2.
 
I changed a setting on my SwithPros to keep (2) circuits on continuously.
1 for the fridge and the other for my scene lights.

No need to have it in ACC or ACC2 mode
 
Made a custom bracket to mount my waterport directly to my spare tire.

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And then finally installed my second Victory 4x4 molle panel on the passenger side. A lot easier to do the second time, but still a chore.

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That is pretty slick! Curious if you are worried about weight on those spindles? That seems like a lot on them, but only mentioned because I broke and lost a spare (rock warrior from my 100) in the past. The spindle fatigued at the base and sheered off.
 
Added another AOB switch, this time for the winch.

Edit: 951NG is the switch model.

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Do you have any hard switches feeding into the Garmin? I've been running an Spod (two actually) in the Power Wagon. High quality units. Love how you can electronically set the max amps on each circuit as well as program in logic operations. But... I bought the touchscreen panel and hate it. I want a physical button for things like lights. Taking my eyes off the road to touch a soft button is for the birds. Spod does offer an eight-button switch and if I were to keep the truck I'd definitely 'switch' to that, pun intended.

One nice thing about the Spod touch panel though is that you can swipe across and control any other Spod that may be on your system. I have one under the hood for front loads (lights) and one in the Summit for house loads (cabin lights, scene lights, water pump, air pump, etc.)
No hard switches.
 
can you use the garmin without having your truck in ACC or acc2 mode?

I have the ARB Linx but to turn on my scene lights I gotta run acc2 and that always makes me battery conscious. I have a switch pro as for a 3 way in the back but still need acc2.
Yes, Garmin is directly hardwired to the battery but you can also wire an ignition wire, should you choose. I also like that you can pop the hood and turn accessories on or off via the module, should you lose your device, etc.
 
Yes, Garmin is directly hardwired to the battery but you can also wire an ignition wire, should you choose. I also like that you can pop the hood and turn accessories on or off via the module, should you lose your device, etc.

I used my Garmin PowerSwitches quite a bit during LCDC and was very happy with them. I have one in the engine compartment wired to the starting battery that controls my air compressors, lockers and soon my winch power. I also have one in back wired to my aux lithium controlling all of my exterior lighting. Between the handful of times that I used my rear locker and the many times I used my chase lights at various levels of brightness, the PowerSwitches just worked flawlessly. I also like the fact that when its time to air up, I open the hood and just hit the button. The ability to create custom buttons in the app was also nice as I created one that only turns both lockers off, and is nice and big, so instead of toggling with the individual locker buttons, I can just hit the big "Lockers Off" button and continue down the trail. Of course I also created a button that locks both and use it the same way.

It's definitely a little weird not having hard switches, but now that I'm used to it, I love it.
 
I used my Garmin PowerSwitches quite a bit during LCDC and was very happy with them. I have one in the engine compartment wired to the starting battery that controls my air compressors, lockers and soon my winch power. I also have one in back wired to my aux lithium controlling all of my exterior lighting. Between the handful of times that I used my rear locker and the many times I used my chase lights at various levels of brightness, the PowerSwitches just worked flawlessly. I also like the fact that when its time to air up, I open the hood and just hit the button. The ability to create custom buttons in the app was also nice as I created one that only turns both lockers off, and is nice and big, so instead of toggling with the individual locker buttons, I can just hit the big "Lockers Off" button and continue down the trail. Of course I also created a button that locks both and use it the same way.

It's definitely a little weird not having hard switches, but now that I'm used to it, I love it.
May I ask why you wire your compressor, etc. to the starting battery? Not arguing, just curious as it would seem a winch, etc could kill your starter battery.
 
Did you buy the lug nuts or did you painted them. I just bought the same wheels with for my 17 LC. Any issues with the TPMS..Any info is appreciated. Thanks
I just put these on our 17 LC. No issue with TPMS. I opted to buy the black lug nuts as I’m sure paint won’t hold up for tire rotations.
 
Did you buy the lug nuts or did you painted them. I just bought the same wheels with for my 17 LC. Any issues with the TPMS..Any info is appreciated. Thanks
the heritage comes with factory black lug nuts: PT076-0C200-02
 
May I ask why you wire your compressor, etc. to the starting battery? Not arguing, just curious as it would seem a winch, etc could kill your starter battery.
I know my personal logic for this was that these two functions are most likely performed with the engine running and thus battery being charged, additionally I have a BlueSea ML-RBS relay between batteries that will be triggered connected by the winch Aux signal.
 
Drove it down to SLC and had someone more experienced than me install an OME Nitrocharger setup. I was a little worried that it would be too firm, but honestly I love it and it should get a little more compliant as the miles pile on. The drive down and the drive back were like night and day. I finally understand when people refer to their vehicles as feeling "planted". The stock suspension in comparison felt like I was riding one of these:

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I'm glad I didn't break the bank and go with the BP-51s (although, if the "cheap" setup is this good, I am intrigued by how good the BP-51s must be). Simple, reliable, and should last a long, long time with how much the truck gets driven. Plus, I still have some money in the war chest for the 40 that the missus wants after visiting the Heritage Museum.

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Drove it down to SLC and had someone more experienced than me install an OME Nitrocharger setup. I was a little worried that it would be too firm, but honestly I love it and it should get a little more compliant as the miles pile on. The drive down and the drive back were like night and day. I finally understand when people refer to their vehicles as feeling "planted". The stock suspension in comparison felt like I was riding one of these:

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I'm glad I didn't break the bank and go with the BP-51s (although, if the "cheap" setup is this good, I am intrigued by how good the BP-51s must be). Simple, reliable, and should last a long, long time with how much the truck gets driven. Plus, I still have some money in the war chest for the 40 that the missus wants after visiting the Heritage Museum.

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Looks great and glad to hear you like the ride thus far. Thinking about doing the same to my 2016. How much lift did you go with front/rear?
 
Looks great and glad to hear you like the ride thus far. Thinking about doing the same to my 2016. How much lift did you go with front/rear?
Thanks! I went with OME 2700s up front, and OME 2722s in the rear. I guess that is 1" in the front and .75" in the rear but I was never really shooting for a specific amount of lift - I just called Cruiser Outfitters, talked to them about my needs, and this is what I ended up with. Here's a side profile with a mostly empty cargo area. Tires are 285/70/17 KO2s.

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