Michael B
SILVER Star
It’s looking good HH! What does the contractor need quick Crete for?
My Turn - The Mega Dream Garage (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Hugh Heifer
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Nice call on the coiling doors! I wish ida thought that out. Way less overhead issues.
Looking great sir.
Looking great sir.
- Thread starter
- #83
Nothing for me now but he sets his main poles in it when he starts a build. He is very concerned about it. He also said he had to search for my man door. Had to get one at Home Depot. No left hands available at his usual supplier. I will probably have a little up charge based on the invoice.
I really like the guy. He just has high expectations on his timelines. I trust him and I have grown to trust his crew.
I tested the doors. Easy up and down. Clearly true.
- Thread starter
- #84
They were actually cheaper than regular overheads. They are not nearly as attractive as a regular overhead but they work great for this. One thing I was concerned with when I first started designing was doors interfering with one another and the lift. But size went crazy so that would not have been an issue now.
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- #85
I feel like I am in the home stretch...to call the next trade. Spray foam.
mrboatman
GOLD Star
It's looking good 
mrboatman
GOLD Star
Do you have to run wire or conduit before spray foam?
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- #88
It's looking good
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- #89
My plan is to do closed cell foam, then build a small mezzanine. Then get the power run from the pole to a panel with the minimum to pass inspection on electrics. Then cover the walls in metal a buddy said he had available. Then put all the rest of the electrical in conduit outside (upon) the interior walls. I am on the fence about that but it will prevent drilling through any of my 6x6s get my walls up easy etc.
Even if I did spray foam first, I am only going to do 2 inches so I could still do electric after - just not stuff on the outside without cutting through it.
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- #90
I am open for ideas once the metal is up but 2 inches of closed cell is non-negotiable
I'm just doing 1 inch foam board glued to the wall girts and then sheeting. I also have kicked around the idea of running electrical in conduit as well. Since I'm lining the lower 8' with plywood (once I sell my kidney on the black market), I have also thought about doing drops from the top and just fishing the wiring down to the boxes.
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mrboatman
GOLD Star
I agree with the 2"min of foam I`ve never worked with spray foam walls. Might be easy to have a small soffit up high to run the wiring and just do drops down the desired wall cell.
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- #94
I would have room behind the walls to do drops then use remodel boxes (with the ears) against the inside of the metal walls.
Keep the ideas coming. I have room for them.
So far no. I do intend to do R30 batt in the ceiling when I get there. I did soo much reading on insulation and after finding some really interesting research info on the rate of diminishing returns on increasing the r value, I found that an R around 10 was likely the best bang for the buck which 1" of pink foam board would get me. Additionally, air transfer is more important than actual insulation, especially when it comes to condensation. Keep the warm moist air from hitting the cooler air and you prevent condensation. Your spray foam will take care of that for you very nicely. We sprayed an inch in the house before putting regular batt in and it is super tight. For the shop, after beating myself up for weeks, I finally decided since I wasn't looking for 68 degrees in the summer, I could live with the rigid foam. If I ever add HVAC, which based on this week, I may have to give a second look, I can look at doing more on the insulation front.
To me it seemed that ceiling was where I needed to make the biggest investment. So that's my current plan.
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That's what I was thinking. The cavity between the interior sheeting and my rigid foam is about 4 inches, more than enough to drop wire down to a box.
For reference, here's the article I was referring to:
www.energyvanguard.com
You can see the way they graph it, once you get above 8-10, the return starts to diminish significantly and it starts cost way more to get that next increment of gain.
I think what I came up with was some is better than none. And "enough" is up to the end user. Slow/stop the air as best you can and you drastically reduce transfer.
I had them put the double bubble foil stuff on behind the metal (which I think helps a lot with condensation) but in hindsight, I probably could have down spray and been ahead of the game.
The Diminishing Returns of Adding More Insulation - Energy Vanguard
If you’re building a house and want to have a really good building enclosure, you need it to be airtight, handle moisture properly, and have a good amount of insulation. Ideally, you’d also consider the effects of solar radiation on the…
www.energyvanguard.com
You can see the way they graph it, once you get above 8-10, the return starts to diminish significantly and it starts cost way more to get that next increment of gain.
I think what I came up with was some is better than none. And "enough" is up to the end user. Slow/stop the air as best you can and you drastically reduce transfer.
I had them put the double bubble foil stuff on behind the metal (which I think helps a lot with condensation) but in hindsight, I probably could have down spray and been ahead of the game.
You mention it feeding into a creek. I can just see someone downstream getting flooded on a clear sky day when you release the buildup and being all "WTF???"
The other month I had a contractor commenting on windows and doors not being available. I happened to go by another of his jobsites - a renovation project - and noticed a worker carrying a 6 panel door out to the dumpster. I pulled in for the heck of it to look - eight doors sitting there in the dumpster, perfectly good.
I typically note on my drawings to salvage and donate any material to the local Habitat for Humanity ReStore - and I fully understand that there are certain liability issues with using salvaged materials. But you'd think that someone there would be
and start the discussion - "Hey, we've got a three month lead time on doors. I'm taking these out of this other project and have to pay to have them hauled away as trash. If you sign here releasing liability (they're doors, for goodness sake) I'll credit the other project on the trash cost and we can install them for you next week."
The spray foam will also help a lot with sound insulation. Keep the rain noise out and the mechanics noise in.
- Thread starter
- #100
Holy crap Ross! Tvis thread brought you out of your slumber!?
For sure. Buddies with metal buildings say it is defening in a rain storm.
