Builds Rebuild of Trusty (1 Viewer)

[POPO AGIE]

Today I had a good day.
I used a bearing puller to get the stuck pin out of the eye of the spring until I was able to pull it out by hand. I had to get creative to get it out using a chisel or wrenches to jack against with the bolts. Worked a lot better than beating it out with a hammer and chisel.

I put some pressure on the opposite end of the spring with the floor jack and then drove the chisel between the eye of the spring and the hanger and used a pry part to get it loose. Was much harder when I did the add a leafs and replace the bushings over 30 years ago.

Pin removed and was rustier then the other side

Raised the LC up enough to get the tires to clear the frame and rolled out from under to work on.

Set up on the skates and jack stands for mobility

 

[POPO AGIE]

Removed the differential cover after draining out the oil

Removed the retaining bolt to get the pin out

Once the C-clips were removed I had to fight the brake shoes against the drums to remove the shafts. The short side was not quite as tight and was able to beat the drum with a 4lb hammer and rotate and got past the shoes. On the long side, it was tighter and I had to keep pushing the axle and pry the drum out until I could pry on the flange hole. I did try to back off the wheel cylinders, but with much luck. The shoes, cylinders and drums were all original and had not been activated since 1991. I won.

Pulling the short side

Short axle out

Pulling out the long side

 

[POPO AGIE]

Long axle out

Unbolted the differential and broke the seal and had my Wife come out and use two screwdrivers to help separate from the housing and keep things square so I could lift it off the studs. Very glad I did not try that under the LC.

Housing gutted

Differential on the table

 

[POPO AGIE]

Was in the barn today working on the FJ60 axle and removed the springs from the FJ40 axle so that I could take measurements of the perches on the FJ40 axle to locate them on the FJ60 axle by measuring from the ID of the differential opening seemed to be the most accurate we to measure to the center line of the perches.


Removed the springs from the FJ40 axle

Removal of welded tabs and mounts from the FJ60 axle and ground the welds smooth
My size 12s are in most of the photos

Removing only one perch so that I can use a level on the other perch with a level to get one new perch tacked and level to the old one

Half of perch cut off

 

[POPO AGIE]

The other half of perch removed

Welds ground smooth for the Long side perch

Layout of center line of new perch

Layout marks for the centerline of the other new perch

 

[POPO AGIE]

I took both axle housings back to the shop to have the new perches tacked in place. Using the FJ40 axle to get the location right for the FJ60 axle so the suspension and pinion will all line up. Will tack in place and then weld out the perches after the suspension is mocked up and double check the pinion angle to the output flange on the Transfer Case.

The new perches needed to be cut to fit the axle tubes so decided to let the shop do the set up.

 

[peesalot]

Be careful moving the third around without the cross pin, there are bushings/washers behind the spider gears and they like to migrate.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I removed the 3rd member from the FJ40 axle and have removed the spider gears already and will remove the side gears when I install the new LockRight locker and install in the FJ60 axle. The side gears are still in place so I don't loose the thrust washers behind them.

Thanks for the caution.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Today I was informed that the new H55F and transfer case were built out and will ship out tomorrow to West Valley, UT about 5 hours one way from Riverton, WY.

The welding at the shop was completed on the FJ60 axle so it has new perches set at the same distance from the center line of the differential opening and angle as the perches were on the FJ40 axle.


On the way home, I bought a new wire feed welder at Sutherlands with a spool of wire and had to go back for tips because I bought 0.035" wire and it was set up for 0.030".
It was 3 times as expensive as the wire feed I bought from Harbor Freight and hope it last longer and parts are available. I haven't set up a wired since the 90's when I welded on rail cars in Rock Springs, WY but I got the feed pull turned 180 so that the wire was in the 0.035" groove and plugged it in and feed the wire to the gun and installed the right size tip.

New wire feed welder

Perch welded to the short side

New perch welded to the long side

 

[POPO AGIE]

Worked on welding the truss, found out if I try to stitch more than about an inch the truss will blow out so I will have to just make more stitches and did not finish today.

Started the day replacing the gear shifting instruction plate

The rivets were not real tight and when I tried to drill them out they would spin and bent the first bit on the bottom two holes. Used a die grinder to get the top two removed and scuffed the plate a little.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Truss ready to weld

Some welds and found that this length was about all the gauge of the truss could handle before blowing out

While cooling removed studs for the Differential and the cover, the pipe wrench worked pretty well on the long studs

Got a stud extractor set for the cover studs and it had a size for the hub studs in the set

While waiting for the wedding to cool, I was working on the wheel hubs and spindles. I cleaned the old spindles that will go back on the front axle and put away for later.
Removed the bolts from the first rotor

 

[POPO AGIE]

Used a brass hammer and wedge to separate the rotors from the wheel hubs and worked very well for being attached for 47 years

First one separated

 

[POPO AGIE]

Removed the seals and races from the wheel hubs

Cooled the seal holders for the new rear spindles in the freezer before driving them in

Installed the seal holders in the new spindles

First seal holder

Second seal holder

 

[POPO AGIE]

Completed welding the truss to the axle then will clean up with the grinder for paint. I was never good at stopping a weld or tying in ether, but was able to backfill any holes in the truss I blew out. Today there were a lot less.

While waiting for the axle to cool down I went back to working on the wheel hubs

Used a large brass drift and 3lb brass hammer to knock out the studs they came out pretty easy

Both wheel hubs with studs removed

Cleaned up the wheel hubs with a wire wheel and a die grinder and flapper wheel. I also had to use a burr bit to clean up the race bores from knocking them out with a steel punch and I also got the bore knocking out a inner seal.

After installing the seal holders in the new spindles the threads needed attention with a 1.5mm thread file so that the new nuts would thread on. I left the nuts on to protect the start of the threads until I can install.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Did some grinding of the welds and did some touch welding fill in some holes. I also found the lens controls and reduced the shade level so I could see where the puddle was going I was only seeing it on the truss and listening for the sound change as I crossed the gap to the axle tube

Grinding

Results after cleaning with a 4-1/2 inch cat's paw

My Workmate finally broke from the cut lines from when Dad was helping me roof my house in the 90s, will have to cut some more wood for the tabletop.

 

[B y r o n]

Did some grinding of the welds and did some touch welding fill in some holes. I also found the lens controls and reduced the shade level so I could see where the puddle was going I was only seeing it on the truss and listening for the sound change as I crossed the gap to the axle tube

Grinding

View attachment 3049087
Results after cleaning with a 4-1/2 inch cat's paw

View attachment 3049088

My Workmate finally broke from the cut lines from when Dad was helping me roof my house in the 90s, will have to cut some more wood for the tabletop.

View attachment 3049094

So besides rebuilding the 40 you're going to be rebuilding the Workmate.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Yep, seems pretty handy for working with sub assemblies.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Dropped off the rear differential for cleaning before paining and installing the LockRight, then picked two small wire brushes for cleaning the wheel hubs.

Cleaned and dressed the wheel hubs, there were some raised metal on the mating face with the rotors.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Laid out the perches to cut them to the same as the FJ40 axle and got to use my Sterrett combo square that I don't use much since I have been an Engineer

Cut the perches with a saws all at first, but got to be very noisy and rough then switched to the cutoff wheel and a die grinder and that would slow down because the compressor could not keep up so I had to wait for the compressor to build back up.

Had to make a break first so the axle did not roll while cutting

Then cleaned up the cuts with a grinder

 

[POPO AGIE]

Friday I drove to the Yellow Freight doc in Salt Lake City to pick up my H55F and transfer case. I took a while for them to find at will call, but got it located and loaded in my truck.

While I was on vacation in HI the Wife and I both caught covid so has been recovering since we got home.

Today I fired up the tractor to get the H55F out of the truck and it is heavy. I had to use ratchet straps since I don't have forks to attach to the bucket and the box was a lot deeper than the bucket. Then set it down on two wheel skates so I could roll it around on the floor.

Inventoried the loose parts in the box. 1 shift lever for the H55F, 1 shifter knob, Shift linkage for the transfer case, 1 shifter knob. Front output flange, parking brake backing plate, and brake kit.