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SILVER Star
Toyota didn’t use dielectric for a reason. Make sure you don’t have water leaking into the cab and you won’t need it. Plus, any future work on wiring will be infinitely less messy.
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Here's a couple threads to read before you dismiss the use of dielectric grease...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/electrical-problem.1260038/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-electrical-issues-any-advice-or-feedback.1253933/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wet-p-s-floor-board.1262635/#post-14037876
Leak at A-Pillar - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/leak-at-a-pillar.1252717/
You doing ok?I'm fully aware of the harness issues, and have been doing what I consider high-level shadetree auto work for over two decades, the whole time seeing the gospel of dielectric grease. I've used the stuff on exactly two connectors, and in both cases ended up wishing I hadn't.
Toyota, nor any major OEM for that matter use dielectric grease on the vast majority of their harnesses because it isn't needed with how well they engineer their electrical systems, and generally causes more problems than it solves. It attracts dirt, makes inspecting terminals difficult, and any kind of fine harness/connector work vastly more time consuming.
The root of the problem here is water collecting in the footwells and staying there undetected, and grease shoved into connectors preemptively is a band-aid. All-weather mats, never using safelite for windshield installs, and drying things out properly if you screw up and leave windows/sunroof open in the rain is the correct way to address this. I'd even put pulling the cowl and having a look at the windshield base gasket on that list for higher mileage rigs.
Fantastic. You? Changing subject?You doing ok?
I was considering doing this for a few connectors underneath that seem exposed. Like the one that goes to (I think) the transfer case, for example. I haven't done it but I'm wondering about your thoughts on it.I'm fully aware of the harness issues, and have been doing what I consider high-level shadetree auto work for over two decades, the whole time seeing the gospel of dielectric grease. I've used the stuff on exactly two connectors, and in both cases ended up wishing I hadn't.
Toyota, nor any major OEM for that matter use dielectric grease on the vast majority of their harnesses because it isn't needed with how well they engineer their electrical systems, and generally causes more problems than it solves. It attracts dirt, makes inspecting terminals difficult, and any kind of fine harness/connector work vastly more time consuming.
The root of the problem here is water collecting in the footwells and staying there undetected, and grease shoved into connectors preemptively is a band-aid. All-weather mats, never using safelite for windshield installs, and drying things out properly if you screw up and leave windows/sunroof open in the rain is the correct way to address this. I'd even put pulling the cowl and having a look at the windshield base gasket on that list for higher mileage rigs.
Like this one?I was considering doing this for a few connectors underneath that seem exposed. Like the one that goes to (I think) the transfer case, for example. I haven't done it but I'm wondering about your thoughts on it.
Yep like that one. I was actually going to try and get the connector off but some little voice inside asked "Dude, what are you gonna do if you somehow break it getting it apart and then have to go to a dealer (perish the thought) and have to pay to get it fixed" when the whole point was to make it last longer. So I didn't do anything.Like this one?
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Toyota uses very high quality gasketed connectors everywhere outside the passenger compartment, so water and dirt ingress shouldn’t be an issue unless the connector is damaged. Which is a whole other issue. They even did a good job of preventing damage from sticks and thrown rocks in this specific location by the use of the small shield around the back of the case and rear driveshaft front ujoint. I’ve seen pictures of some people removing this but would keep mine in place, unless replacing the whole thing with a belly skid for instance.
So personally I don’t see a benefit to modifying this connector. And as mentioned above, if you do need to do work on it for some reason on the side of a trail, the grease will only complicate that repair job.
Most of the others will have a similar story.. waterproof, retained against vibration where needed, protected from damage also if needed.
Yep like that one. I was actually going to try and get the connector off but some little voice inside asked "Dude, what are you gonna do if you somehow break it getting it apart and then have to go to a dealer (perish the thought) and have to pay to get it fixed" when the whole point was to make it last longer. So I didn't do anything.
Well, yeah, point taken. That's how I treated my 2000 100 series and I kept it mostly trouble-free for only 19 years.Wait - all these things for a new Land Cruiser? Jesus man - screw all of this, get some time off, gas’er up and get out in the wilds before the snow flies. Wasting your time on all this stuff right now is just that - wasting your time. You bought this Land Cruiser for adventure. Go have one!
I removed my hitch cover to check for paint damage, and after 12K miles it had begun etching the paint. Last week I had a detail completed, including paint correction and a few small chips touched up, along with the bumper marked by the the hitch cover. My preference is to leave this cover installed but avoid further damage.Remove and ditch the hitch cover. Over time the vibration makes it scratch paint on the bumper cover around it, at least it did on my 2015 I bought used.
I expect the same from the mudflaps - they will probably rub off paint on the bumper cover in the rear, but I imagine this may be more serious in the front where they are against fender sheet metal. Haven't inspected them on my 2015 to be honest, but it did happen on my Taco, at least on it both front and rear are against plastic overfenders.
If you don't want to remove them permanently putting some clear protective tape in that area might be the ticket .
I finally bit the bullet and purchased a '21 Heritage last week. I have a couple of 100 series, and there are some things I wish their prior owners had done early in their ownership to prevent future issues from cropping up.
(i.e.: on the 100 series, there is an electrical connection on the power brake pump that always corrodes, and the issue can be prevented with liberal application of dielectric grease to the connection before it gets bad)
I've scanned through the 200 series forum, and the only thing that I can find so far is Corrosion protection for the KDSS valves. What other things can you point me to?
(finally, if anyone is looking for a well maintained LX470 - check out the ad in the classifieds for my 03 model)
Thanks
I put this on my doors. Works greatI removed my hitch cover to check for paint damage, and after 12K miles it had begun etching the paint. Last week I had a detail completed, including paint correction and a few small chips touched up, along with the bumper marked by the the hitch cover. My preference is to leave this cover installed but avoid further damage.
I found a door edge product on Amazon that has a protective, yet subtle look. Installation was easy and it does not mar the hitch cover edge. It blends well on the darker color finishes. A stainless steel band inside the rubber edging ensures a snug fit around corners. Trim to fit. Amazon product ASIN B08ML2R9WJ
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This stuff is used all over our fire apparatus. It will definitely rub through paint.. the softer texture tends to let sand and grit get embedded in it then the race is on.I removed my hitch cover to check for paint damage, and after 12K miles it had begun etching the paint. Last week I had a detail completed, including paint correction and a few small chips touched up, along with the bumper marked by the the hitch cover. My preference is to leave this cover installed but avoid further damage.
I found a door edge product on Amazon that has a protective, yet subtle look. Installation was easy and it does not mar the hitch cover edge. It blends well on the darker color finishes. A stainless steel band inside the rubber edging ensures a snug fit around corners. Trim to fit. Amazon product ASIN B08ML2R9WJ
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