New 200 owner - What preventative things to do while it is still brand new? (1 Viewer)

[Mark WV]

I finally bit the bullet and purchased a '21 Heritage last week. I have a couple of 100 series, and there are some things I wish their prior owners had done early in their ownership to prevent future issues from cropping up.

(i.e.: on the 100 series, there is an electrical connection on the power brake pump that always corrodes, and the issue can be prevented with liberal application of dielectric grease to the connection before it gets bad)

I've scanned through the 200 series forum, and the only thing that I can find so far is Corrosion protection for the KDSS valves. What other things can you point me to?


(finally, if anyone is looking for a well maintained LX470 - check out the ad in the classifieds for my 03 model)

Thanks

 

[bloc]

If road salt is a thing where you drive, general rust prevention beyond the KDSS valve is all I can think of. On the valve, I’d go further than just protecting the bottom, and try to get the mounting boss for the protective shield on the side of the valve body too. When you remove the shield it’ll be obvious what is bare metal.

There just isn’t much going wrong with these consistently, post radiator update anyway.

 

[ikarus]

I’m in the same boat, just sold my 100 and picked up a 21 Heritage.

I fluid filmed the underside and will continue to do that every fall to avoid rust. I might not let the dealership work on it just so I always know the oil was changed properly and lug nuts weren’t given a few too many dugga duggas

also there’s a recirculating air flap/panel inside the glovebox where you change the cabin air filter. If you let the dealer try to change the filter they might break it because there’s a method to do it correctly and they don’t seem to pay attention to the instructions.

 

[RatherBeRacing]

Wow nice!
I would do what this guy does in terms of rust protection. Especially around service parts (skid plate bolts, tranny pan bolts (bottom and top of the bolts), anything uncovered.

 

[vegasfj40]

Congrats on the purchase! I live in the desert southwest so no rust problem for me. But the first thing I did was gave it its first wax polish job. Keeping it waxed makes cleaning the bugs and road grime easier. Also gain a tenth or 2 in MPGs! Pics of your new 200 are required by the way.

 

[RatherBeRacing]

Forget wax, that's so 90's. Ceramic coat it.

 

[CharlieS]

If you're gung ho, prep, prime and paint all of the unfinished metal parts like the front kdss arm, kdss valve body, etc. If nothing else, at least hit the KDSS shutter valve screws and valve body with LPS3 or similar. Better safe than sorry, even if your climate is mild.

 

[Mark WV]

thanks - I've been wanting to get a 200 for a few years. Not that I don't love the 100 series, but couldn't let the last year of the cruiser slip past without owning one.

Here is the side-by-side view (the LX is for sale - see the classified). The first thing I did was a Graphene coating while she was still clean. I couldn't see the benefit of spending 600 - 1100 for a professional ceramic coating. I'll just do it myself every year...

 

[KLF]

I would highly recommend the ceramic coating. Especially on a black vehicle.

I couldn't see the benefit of spending 600 - 1100 for a professional ceramic coating.

If I could get a ceramic coating done for that price range, I'd jump on that pronto. The last quote I got for my 200 was $2200. My Miata was $1200, but it was worth it.

 

[unclemat]

You can do ceramic coating DIY way. The professional ceramic coating for these prices is absurd and totally not worth it for most people (unless one likes pissing money away, which is perfectly fine).

 

[KLF]

You can do ceramic coating DIY way. The professional ceramic coating for these prices is absurd and totally not worth it for most people (unless one likes pissing money away, which is perfectly fine).

Allegedly.

 

[prharper]

You can do ceramic coating DIY way. The professional ceramic coating for these prices is absurd and totally not worth it for most people (unless one likes pissing money away, which is perfectly fine).

I agree, given his 200 is new. Paint probably needs very minor correction.

There are some great ceramic coatings that a consumer can obtain direct with up to 3 years of protection for under $100 (Gtecniq, Cquartz). The most important part in the process is the paint correction, getting out all the contaminates and swirls which is labor intensive ($$$) and a critical step before putting on a coating. Otherwise you seal in imprecations/blemishes.

To the OP, get it done sooner than later (before several car washes) and you'll appreciate, so much easier to wash and the added protection from the elements like bird bombs.

You can do it.

 

[unclemat]

Of course. Full detail is required which while not difficult, requires some investment in tools, time and patience.

 

[jl199986]

I had the same questions as you for my new HE. Did Xpel on the front, Opticoat Pro + then got Woolwax underneath and hit a few key spots with cosmoline. Looking great after its first New England winter.

Even new sub 50 mile ones at the dealers had crazy swirl marks in the paint. The dealers run them thru whatever. The professional correction and ceramic was worth it for me. Makes it a joy to wash because it feels showroom clean, but it’s easy. And really highlights the blue flecks. Opticoat is a 7 year warranty. But realistically Its permanent. This is my 4th car with it. Not as high gloss as some, but much tougher.

 

[unclemat]

Remove and ditch the hitch cover. Over time the vibration makes it scratch paint on the bumper cover around it, at least it did on my 2015 I bought used.

I expect the same from the mudflaps - they will probably rub off paint on the bumper cover in the rear, but I imagine this may be more serious in the front where they are against fender sheet metal. Haven't inspected them on my 2015 to be honest, but it did happen on my Taco, at least on it both front and rear are against plastic overfenders.

If you don't want to remove them permanently putting some clear protective tape in that area might be the ticket .

 

[vegasfj40]

Forget wax, that's so 90's. Ceramic coat it.

Ha! You must not appreciate the mindfulness qualities of, wax on...wax off!

 

[Mark WV]

Thanks for the input on the rear hitch cover - I just installed it yesterday, So I will remove it until I can figure out a way to protect the bumper cover. Mud Flaps stay however as I live on a gravel road and need the protection...

I didn't mean to start a thread on ceramic coatings - to each his own. I'll stick with the Graphene coating for now applied on a 9-12 month schedule.

I have ordered and will be applying a 3M pro clear bra for the headlights, mirrors, bumper cover and front of the hood - Any feedback on these?

Just finished up Painting the KDSS Valve assembly, and while I was there I painted the thin metal cover (and the similar fuel line cover in front of it) with 2 coats of Rustoleum. Also greased the bleed nipple and bottom of the valve to keep them rust free for the future.

While I was there, I noticed the weld seam on the transmission support and main frame rails were already showing early signs of flaking paint and corrosion, so I went ahead and wire brushed all of the seams on the frame .& support and primed / painted those as well. (ignore the runs in the paint - I was going for protection - not beauty)

Other mechanical suggestions?

 

[04UZJ100]

Thanks for the input on the rear hitch cover - I just installed it yesterday, So I will remove it until I can figure out a way to protect the bumper cover. Mud Flaps stay however as I live on a gravel road and need the protection...

I didn't mean to start a thread on ceramic coatings - to each his own. I'll stick with the Graphene coating for now applied on a 9-12 month schedule.

I have ordered and will be applying a 3M pro clear bra for the headlights, mirrors, bumper cover and front of the hood - Any feedback on these?

Just finished up Painting the KDSS Valve assembly, and while I was there I painted the thin metal cover (and the similar fuel line cover in front of it) with 2 coats of Rustoleum. Also greased the bleed nipple and bottom of the valve to keep them rust free for the future.

While I was there, I noticed the weld seam on the transmission support and main frame rails were already showing early signs of flaking paint and corrosion, so I went ahead and wire brushed all of the seams on the frame .& support and primed / painted those as well. (ignore the runs in the paint - I was going for protection - not beauty)

Other mechanical suggestions?
View attachment 2618029View attachment 2618030

Where did you order the PPF from?

 

[CharlieS]

Looks great. Nice work.

On the hitch cover, I don’t get the concern about it scratching the bumper cover. To each their own I guess. I run the cover when I’m not towing.

 

[unclemat]

Looks great. Nice work.

On the hitch cover, I don’t get the concern about it scratching the bumper cover. To each their own I guess. I run the cover when I’m not towing.

I don't use the cover hence the issue.