Horrible Brake Pulse - currently have Akebono ceramics - need pad recommendations (1 Viewer)

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As far as part numbers go, I just got this from my parts guru, we met at Cruise Moab '18. Looks like for Toyota Parts, will run about $50 plus shipping.

Front
90240-06024 PIN x 4
47748-60061 SPRING x 2

Rear
47715-60010 PIN MAIN SLIDE x 2
47715-60020 PIN SUB SLIDE x 2
47775-30040 DUST BOOT x 2

....not that I think this is the issue :)
 
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Tonight in preparation for the new pins arriving tomorrow, i removed the passenger side caliper. Got the pads off and one side of the slide pin but it would not slide up/down. The bolt to the other was absolutely stuck. I tried the impact drill and no luck. Tomorrow ill try the impact gun. If i cant get it off with the impact ill call napa for a semi loaded caliper and replace both rears.
 
This was for the rear? Did your pins come in?
 
So... this is the rear. My pins came on time but after looking at the state of the ones on the calipers i order semi loaded calipers from NAPA to refresh everything. Ill be shipping the pins back and i didn't even open the box they came in. I would probably just order the calipers and refresh everything so you do it once. The pins were absolutely frozen with years of brake dust and whatever else.

I took it for a drive and stopping was better but that could be my imagination. I tried to replicate the pulsing but could not so i cant say 100% it cured the problem. Prior to doing this work the pulsing was very noticeable so its not like i could not compare the difference. I will come back and update this thread after the weekend and some more driving.

I would say that if you have never refreshed the pins i highly recommend doing so. I have pics in my thread for the work done today. Does the front require the same level of servicing?


BucFL LC100 Build
 
So... this is the rear. My pins came on time but after looking at the state of the ones on the calipers i order semi loaded calipers from NAPA to refresh everything. Ill be shipping the pins back and i didn't even open the box they came in. I would probably just order the calipers and refresh everything so you do it once. The pins were absolutely frozen with years of brake dust and whatever else.

I took it for a drive and stopping was better but that could be my imagination. I tried to replicate the pulsing but could not so i cant say 100% it cured the problem. Prior to doing this work the pulsing was very noticeable so its not like i could not compare the difference. I will come back and update this thread after the weekend and some more driving.

I would say that if you have never refreshed the pins i highly recommend doing so. I have pics in my thread for the work done today. Does the front require the same level of servicing?


BucFL LC100 Build

I am dealing with this pulsing issue as well. I have about 30,000 miles on a fresh set of DBA rotors with OEM pads. I found that my rear pads were pretty much shot and I had Slee replace rear rotors and fresh pads. This seems to have improved things a bit, but I still seem to get the steering wheel shake. I recently replaced my steering rack bushings with polyurethane and replaced all the front diff bushings as well. I have a new set of front rotors and pads I need to have installed, as Slee did not have the time to do it. Hopefully, this will improve the front end. Once I have this done I am scheduled for a new set of tires, at which time I will get balanced and do a front end alignment. Then, I will try guide pins, calipers and wheel bearings after that.
 
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If your on the original set of calipers, i recommend either rebuilding or a new set of calipers. Id say the piston is probably worn too. I put on a new set of pads/rotors and it went away for a while, but the problem came back.

Does anyone know if the front is the same? Does it require a rebuild also?
 
It works a little different, it is hard mounted and the pads float, not the caliper.
 
I have just replaced my rear brake pads and installed new DBA rotors. I must say that now that I have a few miles and have seated the new pads the shaking has greatly diminished. It’s funny because the way the front steering wheel would shake and the pulsing I would feel through the brake pedal I thought it was the front end. I was getting ready to replace the front rotors and pads as well. Now I am not so sure they are the issue. I might install a set of new tires, I need them anyway, then balance and align, and install new front pads first to see if there is any improvement and if this helps I might return front rotors. For now the new setup in the rear has helped considerably. After all of this I might have the calipers rebuilt at next service.
 
So the rear is pulsing, and transerfing that hydraulically to the front, has to be.

I went to the Ozarks this weekend, LOTS of water crossings, and I'm not sure what caused it maybe the quenching of the brakes, but my pulse has diminished by about 90%. I'll give it a few days to see if it comes back more pronounced but it is way down from what it was, for now anyway.
 
UPDATE:

I still have a slight wobble when coming to a stop but not as bad as before swapping out for new calipers. I’ll do same with fronts in a week of two.
 
UPDATE:

I still have a slight wobble when coming to a stop but not as bad as before swapping out for new calipers. I’ll do same with fronts in a week of two.

any news? I ordered the pins for the back and new pads. Hoping it solved the issue, the pulsing has gotten pretty unbearable in my rig.
 
I haven’t ordered my fronts yet. I still have the slide pins in box unused if anyone needs them.

Replacing the rears has greatly diminished pulsing. It’s there but it’s sporadic when i can feel it. Regardless if replacing the fronts fixes it, I still think it needs to be addressed as the components are over 230k miles old.
 
Updates?
 
None yet...ive had to work on the AC leak i have now... i still have wobbling but its not as bad

I plan on buying the fronts next week and maybe install next week or week after. :meh:
 
Might I ask - why would anyone want cross drilled/slotted rotors on a 100 series? Are you all pushing your braking so hard, constantly, that a stock rotor isn't able to dissipate heat fast enough and you have constant brake fade?
 
I want to say this is 100% rotor related. I cant see pins causing this at all. I just replaced my front and rear rotors for pulsation at slow speeds and its 100% corrected. Pulsation is caused by an uneven surface. The pads are sacrificial so all that's left are the rotors. Machine them or replace them and problem should be solved.
 
I want to say this is 100% rotor related. I cant see pins causing this at all. I just replaced my front and rear rotors for pulsation at slow speeds and its 100% corrected. Pulsation is caused by an uneven surface. The pads are sacrificial so all that's left are the rotors. Machine them or replace them and problem should be solved.

I replaced my rear pins and rear pads last night, 100% solved my pulsating issue...
 
Well my wobble came back. Left truck at mechanics and should hear back tomorrow. I was going to resurface rotors on truck but everybody around me wanted like $180 per axle... insane!
 
UPDATE

I replaced all the pads today with brand new pads. I couldn't stand the cobble any longer. Its mostly gone but i can still feel it slightly. Wire wheeled surface of rim and rotor. The rear pads were still in perfect condition the driver side was in good condition as well.

The passenger on the other hand did not look good. The inside pad was fine but the outside was worn down to 1/8". The front calipers looked good as well and the pistons operated without issue. I had wife pump brake while i check piston movement. I initially thought it may have been the front calipers as i had already replaced the rears but they operated OK to me.

I had pretty much put every thing away when i thought to try and see if there was movement on the front passenger tire. So i check for movement at 9-3 o'clock, nothing... checked 12-6 and got some play. I looked around and saw the UCA bushing rubber half torn off. When i went to get gas i heard a pop so bushing has to go.

Could this be the issue of my wobble and why its only the outer passenger pad thats worn much more then all others? Is it because the lose tire is putting more pressure on pad so it wears faster?
 

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