I have a new to me 98 LX470, and the brakes were pulsing when stopping. I looked through the faq and didn't see too many threads of pad swaps, probably because its too easy for most.
Ill post my adventures here for others just getting into their 100, so they can order everything you need before you start.
When I have done brakes on other cars, it usually takes less than a day - Calipers off, rotors swap Calipers+pads back on, flush and done.
Not so on these. both front and rear there are extra fun steps you get to take.
I bought the powerstop CRK1133 kit - this is the fully coated kit, with front and rear.
It came with front and rear pads, and the anti squeal shims, plus some grease.
I should have ordered as well (and if you are doing your brakes you should too)
Ebrake shoes
Ebrake hardware kit
Front wheel bearings
Front bearing seal
Gasket for the hub
And then found I should have gotten, after taking it apart
the dust shield thing behind the hub (haven't done that yet)
I started with the rear, as I knew the fronts involved bearings.
Inside the rear discs, the ebrake drums live.
Of course I didn't buy replacement for the ebrakes, they are usually fine.
Nope, not this time. The passenger side didn't work, so they were fine.
The driver side, the pad material fell off when i hit them with the drum.
So I had to wait a few days to order the shoes and a hardware kit.
I ordered the BS844 shoe set. It came with just shoes.
I also ordered the Dorman HW17476 hardware kit.
The kit (Dorman) was mostly complete, I got one side done before the camping trip. I left the side that didn't work since it didn't work before.
They have the little horseshoe clampy things that you put on the pins, and then you have to crimp a bit so they don't pop off. the Dorman ones were brittle, so they broke, and I had to reuse the OEM ones (that I didn't take good care of because I had new ones)
On the fronts, you have to get the 4wd hub off. This 6 bolts is what makes it full time 4wd.
This cap is held on by 6 small bolts that crush in cone washers. the cones jam in there so they can't move.
The service manual says to tap the studs with a brass drift to free the cones. This took me several tries to get.
Turns out you need a lot of violence - the solution was ear plugs because I was holding back since hitting the brass hurt my ears.
Ill post my adventures here for others just getting into their 100, so they can order everything you need before you start.
When I have done brakes on other cars, it usually takes less than a day - Calipers off, rotors swap Calipers+pads back on, flush and done.
Not so on these. both front and rear there are extra fun steps you get to take.
I bought the powerstop CRK1133 kit - this is the fully coated kit, with front and rear.
It came with front and rear pads, and the anti squeal shims, plus some grease.
I should have ordered as well (and if you are doing your brakes you should too)
Ebrake shoes
Ebrake hardware kit
Front wheel bearings
Front bearing seal
Gasket for the hub
And then found I should have gotten, after taking it apart
the dust shield thing behind the hub (haven't done that yet)
I started with the rear, as I knew the fronts involved bearings.
Inside the rear discs, the ebrake drums live.
Of course I didn't buy replacement for the ebrakes, they are usually fine.
Nope, not this time. The passenger side didn't work, so they were fine.
The driver side, the pad material fell off when i hit them with the drum.
So I had to wait a few days to order the shoes and a hardware kit.
I ordered the BS844 shoe set. It came with just shoes.
I also ordered the Dorman HW17476 hardware kit.
The kit (Dorman) was mostly complete, I got one side done before the camping trip. I left the side that didn't work since it didn't work before.
They have the little horseshoe clampy things that you put on the pins, and then you have to crimp a bit so they don't pop off. the Dorman ones were brittle, so they broke, and I had to reuse the OEM ones (that I didn't take good care of because I had new ones)
On the fronts, you have to get the 4wd hub off. This 6 bolts is what makes it full time 4wd.
This cap is held on by 6 small bolts that crush in cone washers. the cones jam in there so they can't move.
The service manual says to tap the studs with a brass drift to free the cones. This took me several tries to get.
Turns out you need a lot of violence - the solution was ear plugs because I was holding back since hitting the brass hurt my ears.
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