yes I did. Creeping was especially bad.
Horrible Brake Pulse - currently have Akebono ceramics - need pad recommendations (2 Viewers)
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yes I did. Creeping was especially bad.
For the Record, When getting my brake system flushed and new rotors and pads and other misc work at Slee, Ben there told me it was common on the 100 to have to replace pads once a year when using the rig offroad frequently. YMMV
This is terrible, no way i can believe that...you cant advertise to be a great offroad vehicle with this caveat.
@bucfl I thought the same....and I might take what he said as more driver error than anything. But you will go through brakes much quicker living in CO or up and down mountains than in flatland. Plus alot of the Rigs Slee sees are built, read 1-2,000lbs heavier than stock...it start to make sense
But around Denver especially if going to the mountains on or offroad, there are alot of hills and steep ascents/ descents. As someone who who who lived in Denver for a year, I would guestimate I drove 3-4k miles to and from Trails or just driving the passes alone. If you dont use the transmission to help with speed, brakes do heat up and then wear much faster (speculating here).
They said the best stopping power for a 100 was their DBA Rotors and OEM Pads.
FYI I do not have brake pulsing and I have had to stomp on the pedal a few times.
But around Denver especially if going to the mountains on or offroad, there are alot of hills and steep ascents/ descents. As someone who who who lived in Denver for a year, I would guestimate I drove 3-4k miles to and from Trails or just driving the passes alone. If you dont use the transmission to help with speed, brakes do heat up and then wear much faster (speculating here).
They said the best stopping power for a 100 was their DBA Rotors and OEM Pads.
FYI I do not have brake pulsing and I have had to stomp on the pedal a few times.
So, the issue was the guide pins? Front AND rear? I can't for the life of me find P/N's for the pins, do you happen to know them? Parts diagrams online are not showing them.
Photo of the fronts (Are these what you are talking about?):
FSM for the rear:
sliding pins labeled in the picture. Sorry I didn't name them that way. I just thought everyone new since there's always talk about them.
I doubt they ever even get serviced til they seize, or someone has an issue at 100k or whatever.
I've always called those other things, pad keeper pins.
search , brake guide pins and you'll get all the info you need
I doubt they ever even get serviced til they seize, or someone has an issue at 100k or whatever.
I've always called those other things, pad keeper pins.
search , brake guide pins and you'll get all the info you need
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Still can't find the P/N's for the fronts, but I found the rears, posting for anyone looking in the future...
Rear brake guide pin ("PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE")
Part Number: 47715-60010 OR 47715-60020 (not sure the difference, the 20 is the "sub")
Bushing for rear pin ("BOOT, PIN")
Part Number: 47775-30040
only on the rear, fronts are fixed.
the SUB I think comes with a spring or something. I don't know. I haven't taken any apart. I'm old enough that buying rebuilds is faster.
REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER | LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA | Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
the SUB I think comes with a spring or something. I don't know. I haven't taken any apart. I'm old enough that buying rebuilds is faster.
REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER & DUST COVER | LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA | Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
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i'd try pins first, that is what I'm going to do. Much easier to try that first I think
Okay thanks. Just ordered. I have the emergency brakes too that need to go in. If this comes in this week ill try to get both done this weekend.
FOUR: 4777530040 BOOT, BUSH DUST(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE)
TWO: 4771560020 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
TWO: 4771560010 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
FOUR: 4777530040 BOOT, BUSH DUST(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE)
TWO: 4771560020 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
TWO: 4771560010 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
The 47775-30040 Boot goes on the rear pins.
I also have the same issue with my 2000 LC. Slow stops to a light and a rythmic and noticeable imbalance of braking. Rotors are pretty shiny like they get hot. I took the pads off pushed the pistons in lubed everything and reinstalled. The rear calipers were replaced with the pads. No change as of yet...
When I bought my truck, it had 110k miles on it. I put new EBC rotors up front, along with green stuff pads, since I had used this set up on other vehicles with no issue in the past.
Within 5K Miles it was shimmying pretty bad. EBC sent me another set of rotors, after I replaced, they were OK for about 2K miles.
I have since bought some new rotors, not yet installed. I was sure this was an EBC issue but this thread has me thinking otherwise.
However, I am struggling to understand how the guide pins are the issue. Mine seemed really good when I replaced the brakes. But even if they were really worn, I could see them allowing a clunk or thud upon braking, but I don't understand how they would cause the rotors to warp, or the un-even braking effect.
Within 5K Miles it was shimmying pretty bad. EBC sent me another set of rotors, after I replaced, they were OK for about 2K miles.
I have since bought some new rotors, not yet installed. I was sure this was an EBC issue but this thread has me thinking otherwise.
However, I am struggling to understand how the guide pins are the issue. Mine seemed really good when I replaced the brakes. But even if they were really worn, I could see them allowing a clunk or thud upon braking, but I don't understand how they would cause the rotors to warp, or the un-even braking effect.
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The way I see it is that the calipers slide on these pins. After years of dirt brake dust and build up of everything else they beging to stick and caliper can no longer slide smoothly.
Eventually the pin seizes and the clipper slides on an angle. So you get an uneven wear on the pads and you get that wobble affect.
My pins are scheduled to arrive Friday, so we’ll see how it goes.....
So you couldn't pull the old slides out? Or you just bought new ones? Unless they are seized or rusted beyond repair, replacing the rear slides are not going fix your issue.
When I did my brakes 2 years ago I had the same issue. So I cleaned and put the pin back. Been doing same for a while now.
I figure $30 ain’t bad to refresh them. I had checked with local NAPA and loaded tears are like $75. If it doesn’t fix it I’ll replace them completely.
I figure $30 ain’t bad to refresh them. I had checked with local NAPA and loaded tears are like $75. If it doesn’t fix it I’ll replace them completely.
