Brake Rotor and Pad Swap (1 Viewer)

[blindjoe]

I have a new to me 98 LX470, and the brakes were pulsing when stopping. I looked through the faq and didn't see too many threads of pad swaps, probably because its too easy for most.
Ill post my adventures here for others just getting into their 100, so they can order everything you need before you start.

When I have done brakes on other cars, it usually takes less than a day - Calipers off, rotors swap Calipers+pads back on, flush and done.
Not so on these. both front and rear there are extra fun steps you get to take.

I bought the powerstop CRK1133 kit - this is the fully coated kit, with front and rear.
It came with front and rear pads, and the anti squeal shims, plus some grease.

I should have ordered as well (and if you are doing your brakes you should too)
Ebrake shoes
Ebrake hardware kit
Front wheel bearings
Front bearing seal
Gasket for the hub

And then found I should have gotten, after taking it apart
the dust shield thing behind the hub (haven't done that yet)

I started with the rear, as I knew the fronts involved bearings.

Inside the rear discs, the ebrake drums live.
Of course I didn't buy replacement for the ebrakes, they are usually fine.

Nope, not this time. The passenger side didn't work, so they were fine.
The driver side, the pad material fell off when i hit them with the drum.

So I had to wait a few days to order the shoes and a hardware kit.

I ordered the BS844 shoe set. It came with just shoes.
I also ordered the Dorman HW17476 hardware kit.

The kit (Dorman) was mostly complete, I got one side done before the camping trip. I left the side that didn't work since it didn't work before.

They have the little horseshoe clampy things that you put on the pins, and then you have to crimp a bit so they don't pop off. the Dorman ones were brittle, so they broke, and I had to reuse the OEM ones (that I didn't take good care of because I had new ones)

On the fronts, you have to get the 4wd hub off. This 6 bolts is what makes it full time 4wd.
This cap is held on by 6 small bolts that crush in cone washers. the cones jam in there so they can't move.

The service manual says to tap the studs with a brass drift to free the cones. This took me several tries to get.
Turns out you need a lot of violence - the solution was ear plugs because I was holding back since hitting the brass hurt my ears.

 

[blindjoe]

Eventually I got it off. If anyone else does this, buy the new bearings and seals since you have to take it all apart anyways.
I ended up getting them off and on, and repacking, but i am going to have to do it all again some time to get the oil seals replaced.

The youtube tip of threading the axel nut back on after pulling the outside bearing, then yanking on it to get the inner seal and bearing out was really helpful.

I need to replace the seal that protects the ABS sensor, that was all rusty and falling apart.

Getting the new rotors on wasn't bad.

And all clean looking.
Of course on the driver side, I lost the snap ring that goes on the axel.
This flew in to space after it slipped off the pliers.
Luckily the dealer could get them in a couple of days, as this was right before a camping trip.
The snap rings come in a bunch of sizes as you need to make sure there isnt any slop. I ordered all the sizes I could. Turns out mine was the 2.4 mm size.

After all that, the brakes are now smooth when stopping. They don't grab hard, but they are sufficient. I am going to put trailer brakes on the trailer so that there is another axel of braking when towing the thing full of camping gear.


Hope that helps other newbies for the first time.

I still have to pull apart the passenger side rear to do the ebrake, and then figure out how to adjust them.

 

[Malleus]

Good on you for jumping in to this; it's the first thing every new Land Cruiser owner should check and address. I'd caution that aftermarket parts aren't the best to use for these trucks, especially for critical safety systems.

Also, if your brakes won't plant your face on the dash, they're not right. The 100 has the best brakes Toyota ever designed into any car or truck.

As to the parking brake adjustment, you need to review the FSM. All the guidance you'll ever need is in the Resources section for free download.

FWIW, the only parking brake pads I've ever replaced were lost due to a leaking rear caliper. If your pads are worn, they're misadjusted. The procedure is in the FSM, but I'll post it here for your use (this is from my 2000 LX470 manual, but yours is the same):

 

[LagunaLC2000]

Thank you for the pictures and play by play. Pretty impressive to keep pushing through!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I would also add that if you've got the e-brake torn apart either greasing or replacing the bell cranks is a good idea. The pin and crank are dissimilar metals and corrode.

 

[Marshmallow]

One of my snap rings disappeared on me too - I listened to it bounce out the open garage door, down the driveway and somewhere out in the street. My wife was parked at the end of the driveway in our convertible and heard the sound too but didn’t know what it was. It bounced at least a dozen times.

 

[blindjoe]

The Dorman kit comes with new pins for the bell cranks, and that is important. the one side is seized, I can move it with a hammer, but it isn't free to return.
Ill add that to the thread when i get in there and get them adjusted right.