Shock pairing for Dobinson tapered springs. (1 Viewer)

[SqWADoosh]

Hey guys,
I've purchased Dobinson's version of the tapered progressive springs. AKA the same as the autocraft slinky springs. My trouble is finding the right shock to take advantage of the additional droop these will gain me. Wondering what some of you have opted for who are running these springs? They are a 3" spring however I'm wondering if the Icon 2.5 shocks for the 4-6" lift would be a good pairing coupled with an additional bump stop spacer? Appreciate it.

 

[GW Nugget]

I would try the Dobinson yellows... 6" Front & 4" rear.

4" lift shocks
GS45-912 front 15.35" - 26.37" (Rec BS .5")
GS59-687 rear 16.02" - 26.77" (Rec BS 2")
6" lift shocks
GS59-684 front - 16.53" -28.66" (Rec BS 1.5")
GS59-685 rear - 17.00" - 28.74" (Rec BS 3")

 

[Cass007]

Per David ... I've been doing some homework

4"-5" shocks
GS45-912 - Front 15.35" - 26.37"
GS59-687 - Rear 16.02" - 26.77"
6"-7"
GS59-684 - Front - 16.53" -28.66"
GS59-685 - Rear - 17.00" - 28.74"

4"-5" shocks:
GS45-912 needs about half inch of bump stop extension with a minimum of 525 coil length
GS59-687 - needs a 2” bump extension approx. With a 505mm minimum coil free height to stay trapped.

6"-7" shocks:
GS59-684 needs about 1.5” - 2” bump stop spacing with a coil length of 570mm to stay trapped.
GS59-685 - 6” needs a 3” extension and minimum of approx 555mm coil length to stay trapped.

 

[half k cruiser]

Hey guys,
I've purchased Dobinson's version of the tapered progressive springs. AKA the same as the autocraft slinky springs. My trouble is finding the right shock to take advantage of the additional droop these will gain me. Wondering what some of you have opted for who are running these springs? They are a 3" spring however I'm wondering if the Icon 2.5 shocks for the 4-6" lift would be a good pairing coupled with an additional bump stop spacer? Appreciate it.

Where did you buy the springs from ? If you want to make your life really easy, why not just call the Dobinsons rep here in the states ? @David Otero and @crikeymike can get you setup.

 

[Dragos80]

You might also want to consider the OME L ones.
60070L (front) 15" - 26.3" = 11.3" travel
60071L (rear) 15.2" - 26.9" = 11.7" travel

 

[RaleighCJ]

Running the same setup.

Mike sent me part numbers GS59-682 and GS59-683. I have the 3” VT springs and will be running with a Slee rear tire carrier and ladder, roof rack and Dobinson deluxe front bumper and VR12000 winch.

 

[crikeymike]

Running the same setup.

Mike sent me part numbers GS59-682 and GS59-683. I have the 3” VT springs and will be running with a Slee rear tire carrier and ladder, roof rack and Dobinson deluxe front bumper and VR12000 winch.

Those are the shocks for the 3" lift. The best all-around to use with the coils for up and down travel. Usually with VT coils and those wanting to go with full long travel, they would run our 4" or 6" shocks, but it all depends if you want to add all the other parts to handle the full down travel. You also have to add bump stops, so you lose up travel, but gain more down travel. You can gain one thing, but lose something out, so you have to choose which balance you want to go with.

Rock crawlers and flex-addicts, go with the 4" or 6" lengths, but overlanders and family trucksters, I usually recommend the 3" shocks to go with the 3" lift and not have to add all the other parts for long travel, since they don't need the extra down travel and reduced up-travel.

 

[Box Rocket]

Hey guys,
I've purchased Dobinson's version of the tapered progressive springs. AKA the same as the autocraft slinky springs. My trouble is finding the right shock to take advantage of the additional droop these will gain me. Wondering what some of you have opted for who are running these springs? They are a 3" spring however I'm wondering if the Icon 2.5 shocks for the 4-6" lift would be a good pairing coupled with an additional bump stop spacer? Appreciate it.

For the record, they're not the same as Slinky springs. Similar idea but not the same. I'm a fan of combining parts that are designed to go together. Each component tends to perform best when used in conjunction with other components that are part of a system. So look at the options from Dobinson first. FWIW, the Slinky shocks are designed to take full advantage of the long travel design without needing to increase bumpstop length in the front and only adding 1" of bumpstop in the rear. So less compromise and more balanced travel, but still biased slightly toward droop over compression.

 

[SqWADoosh]

For the record, they're not the same as Slinky springs. Similar idea but not the same. I'm a fan of combining parts that are designed to go together. Each component tends to perform best when used in conjunction with other components that are part of a system. So look at the options from Dobinson first. FWIW, the Slinky shocks are designed to take full advantage of the long travel design without needing to increase bumpstop length in the front and only adding 1" of bumpstop in the rear. So less compromise and more balanced travel, but still biased slightly toward droop over compression.

They are also $4200 for coils and shocks. Thought about going that route but can get the same kinda results for a lot less money.

 

[SqWADoosh]

Those are the shocks for the 3" lift. The best all-around to use with the coils for up and down travel. Usually with VT coils and those wanting to go with full long travel, they would run our 4" or 6" shocks, but it all depends if you want to add all the other parts to handle the full down travel. You also have to add bump stops, so you lose up travel, but gain more down travel. You can gain one thing, but lose something out, so you have to choose which balance you want to go with.

Rock crawlers and flex-addicts, go with the 4" or 6" lengths, but overlanders and family trucksters, I usually recommend the 3" shocks to go with the 3" lift and not have to add all the other parts for long travel, since they don't need the extra down travel and reduced up-travel.

I'm definitely the rock crawler flex-addict not the overlander. The shocks I'm considering come in these variety:

2.5 Front 4-6" Lift: 16 compressed 27.75 extended
0-3" Lift: 15.25 compressed 26.25 extended

2.5 Rear 4-6" Lift: 17 compressed 28 extended
0-3" Lift: 16 compressed 26 extended

I believe the 4-6" lift option should pair well with the springs right?

 

[Box Rocket]

They are also $4200 for coils and shocks. Thought about going that route but can get the same kinda results for a lot less money.

There's a cost difference for sure but value is what you get out of that cost in the end. The majority of that cost is in the 2.5 CDC shocks which are arguably the best you can get without going full custom and the cost for what you get there is very reasonable considering the cost of anything of similar performance. The coils themselves aren't that different in terms of cost. The Stage1 shocks are less expensive but still accommodate the full travel available but has some compromises in performance compared to the Stage4 2.5s. Some people are fine with the performance of a $1000 suspension, others are looking for more performance. Just comes down to where you are on that scale.

If you're just looking for straight flex, there are a lot of ways to get flex. But you'll be hard pressed to get the same kinda results for a lot less money when it comes to the performance of the shocks.

 

[SqWADoosh]

There's a cost difference for sure but value is what you get out of that cost in the end. The majority of that cost is in the 2.5 CDC shocks which are arguably the best you can get without going full custom and the cost for what you get there is very reasonable considering the cost of anything of similar performance. The coils themselves aren't that different in terms of cost. The Stage1 shocks are less expensive but still accommodate the full travel available but has some compromises in performance compared to the Stage4 2.5s. Some people are fine with the performance of a $1000 suspension, others are looking for more performance. Just comes down to where you are on that scale.

If you're just looking for straight flex, there are a lot of ways to get flex. But you'll be hard pressed to get the same kinda results for a lot less money when it comes to the performance of the shocks.

I have no interest in adjustable shocks. I've been there done that before and its a gimmick. Every person I know including myself has found the sweet spot (usually the middle where it would have been without adjusters) and never touched it again. I already have the Dobinson springs. I'm just looking for shocks at this point. I think the Icon 2.5 non CDC are the ones for me.

 

[Box Rocket]

I have no interest in adjustable shocks. I've been there done that before and its a gimmick. Every person I know including myself has found the sweet spot (usually the middle where it would have been without adjusters) and never touched it again. I already have the Dobinson springs. I'm just looking for shocks at this point. I think the Icon 2.5 non CDC are the ones for me.

For rockcrawling, which it sounds like is what your uses are, you're probably right. Shock adjustability is less useful in those situations but it's definitely not a gimmick in other situations (at least not for quality adjustable shocks). I'm not really trying to dissuade you from what you're trying to accomplish, just discussing options since that's what I thought the purpose of the thread was. For slow rockcrawling, I'd even argue that the 2.5's are even overkill. The whole point of the larger shock and remote reservoir is to increase oil capacity to reduce overheating of the shocks. For crawling its not a common occurrence to overheat shocks so why not look at a 2.0 with some good valving and call it a day? If you don't need the features of a higher end shock and are trying to not spend a bunch of money there are several acceptable choices that will fit the bill.

 

[SqWADoosh]

For rockcrawling, which it sounds like is what your uses are, you're probably right. Shock adjustability is less useful in those situations but it's definitely not a gimmick in other situations (at least not for quality adjustable shocks). I'm not really trying to dissuade you from what you're trying to accomplish, just discussing options since that's what I thought the purpose of the thread was. For slow rockcrawling, I'd even argue that the 2.5's are even overkill. The whole point of the larger shock and remote reservoir is to increase oil capacity to reduce overheating of the shocks. For crawling its not a common occurrence to overheat shocks so why not look at a 2.0 with some good valving and call it a day? If you don't need the features of a higher end shock and are trying to not spend a bunch of money there are several acceptable choices that will fit the bill.

Reason I am going with a 2.5 is the weight of the FJ80 and the fact that I drive to and from the trail. Also a lot of pot holed up forest service roads we have to mob through in order to get to a lot of our trails up here.

 

[DylanICON]

I would go with the CDC valve
even for rock crawling. I can really help with modulating the drop offs especially when carrying extra load

 

[Box Rocket]

I would go with the CDC valve
even for rock crawling. I can really help with modulating the drop offs especially when carrying extra load

I agree. But he thinks it's a gimmick.

I'm just playing. But Dylan is right the CDC is a worthwhile feature especially if you're going to bother with the 2.5 and remote reservoir. I've had crappy adjustable shocks (i.e. Rancho 9000) and they were pretty pointless IMO. I found a setting I liked and left them there. I've been surprised how much I play with the adjustments on my 2.5 Slinky shocks. Definitely a feature I've come to appreciate.

 

[SqWADoosh]

Just got off the phone with Icon. 4-6 weeks for shocks. Yikes. That was what lead me away from King.

 

[Box Rocket]

Just got off the phone with Icon. 4-6 weeks for shocks. Yikes. That was what lead me away from King.

Slinky shocks are in stock.

 

[SqWADoosh]

Slinky shocks are in stock.

For how much?

 

[Box Rocket]

Depends on whether you want the Stage1 or Stage4. I don't know the cost of just the shocks, but give Kevin at Endless Horizon a call. He's the distributor and can tell you price on individual components.
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