Crankshaft locked? (1 Viewer)

[DirtDawg]

That's why I came to you guys. I knew it didn't make sense. I'm in no way a mechanic or advanced but I have an overall understanding how engines and parts related work.


So how it started out was exactly like this:

1.Starter would make "scratching/metal scratching" noises only when starting the car
2.Before it stopped, it tried turning over. I could even hear a few pistons turn
3.Instead of the starter making the standard starter noise, it just made a water pump noise...that quiet humm. It was as if it was turning but some gears whether internal or external were stripped so it wasn't making contact.
4.This was confirmed by the mechanic when he fixed it. Then he said the car was still not turning over.

So yes he has changed the starter but no more success after that

Rare, but did the teeth on the flexplate strip? That would cause the starter to not engage.

There are so many other places I’d start before even trying to pull the engine. For starters, trying to turn over the engine by hand.

 

[Kirr]

Dumb question. If I ask him that, just for my own curiosity, how would that be done? A manual turn over of the engine I mean.

 

[Julian Stead]

With a wrench on the harmonic damper(crank pulley).

 

[Kirr]

Great. I'll go there and speak with him tomorrow.

 

[2001LC]

It would seem to me and experience mechanic would have attempted to turn crank by hand, before saying it's "locked". Sounds like he has already (last few days, or did I read that wrong?) pulled the starter, which he would then seen a few teeth of flex plate. So I'm give the mechanic the benefit of doubt.

Again ask him if he has or will scope the cylinder heads and flexplate first. A valve could block engine from hand cranking in one direction, possible but not likely in both direction. A broken flexplate could be jammed against the oil seal plate or block, easily stopping any movement. It may also explain the metal to metal sound you were hearing (crack getting bigger and plate flexing). Although I would have thought some vibration and sounds "out of normal" leading to this, but not notice by some drivers.

We've seen bad flex plates and some valve issues in mud. Never have we seen a crank issue to my knowledge. These are about the strongest lower ends ever built, with exception of rod. But even rod issues has only been reported when boosted with SC.

If in head or flexplate issue, he may not need to pull engine.

 

[jLB]

The 2005 got VVTi and these engines are interference engines so the pistons strike the valves if the belt is broken.

If memory serves (on US models) VVTi was added in 2006.

 

[2001LC]

If memory serves (on US models) VVTi was added in 2006.

VVT-i added in May of 2005, so in some 2005. One was just for sale in SoCA for $25K.

 

[jLB]

VVT-i added in May of 2005, so in some 2005. One was just for sale in SoCA for $25K.

Interesting, I remember the 4runner, GX470, Tundra and Sequoia received the VVTi version of the 2UZ-FE in the 2005 model years (released in late 2004). In middle 2005, when I was shopping for a LC/LX, the rumor was that the 2006 model year was going to receive the VVTI engine, so I waited a few months for the 2006 model.

Were these mid-2005 VVTi models sold as 2005 model year or early release of the 2006 model year?

 

[2001LC]

Interesting, I remember the 4runner, GX470, Tundra and Sequoia received the VVTi version of the 2UZ-FE in the 2005 model years (released in late 2004). In middle 2005, when I was shopping for a LC/LX, the rumor was that the 2006 model year was going to receive the VVTI engine, so I waited a few months for the 2006 model.

Were these mid-2005 VVTi models sold as 2005 model year or early release of the 2006 model year?

My understanding is sold as 2005 built from May thru June. The 2005 that was for sell out of SoCA, was the first one I've seen. Seller was asking $25K which talks was WAY TO MUCH. But looky lou's fail to realize the rarity of it.

 

[Spike555]

That's why I came to you guys. I knew it didn't make sense. I'm in no way a mechanic or advanced but I have an overall understanding how engines and parts related work.


So how it started out was exactly like this:

1.Starter would make "scratching/metal scratching" noises only when starting the car
2.Before it stopped, it tried turning over. I could even hear a few pistons turn
3.Instead of the starter making the standard starter noise, it just made a water pump noise...that quiet humm. It was as if it was turning but some gears whether internal or external were stripped so it wasn't making contact.
4.This was confirmed by the mechanic when he fixed it. Then he said the car was still not turning over.

So yes he has changed the starter but no more success after that

This right here is all the info we need, your flywheel has missing teeth.
The metal grinding you heard was the starter grinding the teeth off of the flywheel.
Then it would finally engage and the engine would start.
Eventually the teeth wore away, then the humming noise you heard was the starter motor spinning but with no teeth to catch it just spins.
Your mechanic put a new starter on, but with no teeth on the flywheel there is nothing for the starter to engage to turn the engine over so it can start.

You need a new flywheel, also known as a flexplate.

The flywheel bolts to the crankshaft on the back of the engine, it has teeth on it, the starter has teeth. The starter teeth engage with the flywheel teeth and this spins the engine, then the computer adds spark and fuel and the engine starts and runs.

 

[Spike555]

One more possible thing to add, it might be possible that some of the broken teeth are now wedged against the inside of the bellhousing and the remaining teeth on the flywheel preventing the engine from turning over.
This would give the impression, when turning the engine over by hand, that it is locked up.

 

[Kirr]

Just curious what the usual causes for a flywheel going bad are?

 

[Kirr]

Just spoke to the mechanic. He said even trying to manually rotate the engine pulley wasn't working. He said something internally is damaged most likely

 

[gatormark91]

Just spoke to the mechanic. He said even trying to manually rotate the engine pulley wasn't working. He said something internally is damaged most likely

Sorry to be blunt... but how many people have to say "take it to a new mechanic" before you take it to a new mechanic??? The guy you are talking to hasn't done the basic exploratory work to check this.

 

[TheForger]

It’s time for a second opinion. I know what you mean by you trust your mechanic, I have a mechanic that I trust with most stuff too. But I know there are some things that would just be too much for him and that’s when the dealership comes into play. I think something like this would fall into that category if I were in your shoes. There are multiple basic steps that he has skipped over while diagnosing your issue. There are only a handful of issues that could possibly happen which would require you to pull the engine out of a 100 Series to repair, and every one of those is highly unlikely at this point. I don’t think it is necessary at all.

 

[geanes]

Get a 2nd opinion from another mechanic. That is the best advice on this entire thread.

 

[Julian Stead]

I think it is time to drop the transmission out, even if the engine still has to come out then you have done some work towards this so it isn’t wasted time.

 

[abuck99]

I think it is time to drop the transmission out, even if the engine still has to come out then you have done some work towards this so it isn’t wasted time.

There have been some reported broken flex plates, but very few across the platforms using 2uzfe. Most have cracked but not completely sheared off to my knowledge. This could be checked through the inspection plate, prior to dropping the tranny.

As DirtDawg pointed out, OP is in Dubai, customs & practices how folks deal with repair shops might take on a different tone than here in the States. OP may have few choices in his city, and with and with disabled vehicle is limited to take it else where.

Maybe best we can do here is help him with sound procedural advice to approach his mechanic with a step by step aproach so he doesnt get taken advantage of.

 

[Julian Stead]

Is it that much work to drop the transmission, I would want a full inspection of the flex plate now anyway after the issues he has had. Remove the SERP belt and try and turn over by hand just in case it is a auxiliary component, but then it is gearbox removal for me before engine removal if required. If it was my own labor I would probably remove the starter and SERP belt and try and turn it over but that is clutching at straws really, I would still remove the transmission though.

SERP belt off.(not much wasted time)
Starter removal(probably wasted time)
Transmission out for full inspection(will find the cause or confirm a engine removal is needed).

If it does seem to be engine related I personally would want it removed so I could inspect it without restriction, it could save you money in the long run. Working on a engine in the engine bay is time consuming and it blocks a ramp up.

 

[Kirr]

He said he's tried manually moving it both ways and everything he could do externally. He wants to remove the engine because he thinks its internal. He's seen it plenty of times. I guess he's going on experience from what he's seen in the past