I have a 1989 fj62. All of a sudden this afternoon when I went to apply the brakes I get a loud clunk and what feels like extra brake travel before engagement then a nasty grinding from the passenger side. I change the pads and callipers just under a year ago, could the pads be bad already? I was under there today looking at stuff and scraped some old dirt and grim off of the birfeild but I did not undo anything I was just looking for a lubrication point. Could it be some dirt in-between the pad and rotor? The wheel bearing was changed on the driver's side 2 months ago could the passenger be out now too? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am going to check the pads in the morning but I'm not sure what else to look for.
HELP! Clunk then bad grind when I hit the brakes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Madronesfj62
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
If it was that bad and you did the work then get in and inspect it. If what you felt really seemed as you say I imagine even in my inexperience, you’ll figure it out right away.
- Thread starter
- #3
I did the brakes myself and feel comfortable doing work on brakes. Just wondering if it may be the wheel bearing on that side now. Last time the front driver side wheel bearing went out it was pretty scary, the wheel locked up completely while I was going 55. Now when I hear a grinding noise I get worried.
Check if your caliper bolts are still there and if your calipers have any movement. If that checks out, then the next step is to take off the calipers and inspect whether you installed the pads and hardware correctly.
- Thread starter
- #5
The calipers and pads were done last March so I know they were installed correctly since then have been fine for almost a year. I will check the caliper bolts and check for movement. I did not use any locktite on the bolts when installed them so maybe something came loose.
About a year ago I was driving my 80 along and had a similar experience, a loud clunk then a rattle and a bad grinding sound/feel. I limped it home.
Turns out I had lost a caliper bolt. Unfortunately it's not that rare in an '80. Lose the top and you can go forward, but not reverse as it cams. Lose the bottom bolt and you can reverse, but not go forward. At least, that's how I remember it.
New bolt, tightened to factory spec and good to go.
Turns out I had lost a caliper bolt. Unfortunately it's not that rare in an '80. Lose the top and you can go forward, but not reverse as it cams. Lose the bottom bolt and you can reverse, but not go forward. At least, that's how I remember it.
New bolt, tightened to factory spec and good to go.
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- #7
I hope that is the issue. I am at work so I can't take the wheel off and look right now and it is killing me now knowing. I drove back and forth in the parking spot for a second and I did not hear a grind when applying the brakes in reverse only pulling forward.
I can't promise that's your problem, but my motto is to check the easy/cheap things first. It's real easy to crawl under and look at the caliper bolts, and doesn't cost a darned thing 
You should inspect your caliper bolts before doing any more driving. If you lost both bolts, then your caliper is being in place by the brake hose itself, which won't tolerate too much stress.
Unfortunately, I speak from experience on this topic: Stranded in Challis, Idaho -- why you should always check your caliper bolts
Unfortunately, I speak from experience on this topic: Stranded in Challis, Idaho -- why you should always check your caliper bolts
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- #10
Sure enough it was a missing brake caliper bolt. @Seth_O and @lechnito were right. The bottom bolt is gone completely and the top one was starting to back out. Now I just need to find a new one tomorrow and I should be good to go. Thank you all for the help, my anxiety was getting the better of me.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement bolt quickly?
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement bolt quickly?
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Glad you found the cause and that it isn't too big a fix. I'll add this in case it helps somebody searching in the future, but what you describe sounds just like what happened to me a year ago, only it was my rear axle. And my breaks weren't firm till the 2nd application. Turns out my still fairly new brake shoe became unglued, and was literally just floating around in the drum. Given the age of the brakes and my driving habits I dismissed the possibility of anything like that happening (even taking consideration of ice freezing the shoe to the drum), and spent far too long searching other "probable" causes. I guess the moral of the story is to check the simple stuff
Slightly loose wheel bearings could be contributing to the rotation of the caliper bolts. You'll want to check the whole system when you replace the bolt. And check the brake line for kinks and stretch.
Glad you caught it early before you lost pressure.
Glad you caught it early before you lost pressure.
Amen brother! Words to live by.....
Glad it was something simple and easy. For a short-term fix any hardware store will likely have the right size/pitch/length.
However, I would order the correct bolt from Toyota for a permanent fix. I don't remember specifically on my '62, but on my '80 that's a shouldered bolt, which isn't very common. It's probably pretty expensive (for a bolt), but worth it imho.
The OEM caliper bolt from Toyota is p/n 90101-12060 and should cost about $2 per bolt. Any partially threaded hex bolt m12x1.25 about 37mm will work in a pinch, but you ideally want the highest grade possible (ideally > 10.8). Consider replacing the remaining bolt as it could have been damaged.
When you get the new bolts, apply blue loctite to the threads for the peace of mind and torque those puppies down to 90 ft/lbs.
When you get the new bolts, apply blue loctite to the threads for the peace of mind and torque those puppies down to 90 ft/lbs.
I wanna say I remember hearing that one of the seatbelt bolts is the same thread and approximately the correct length for a trail repair.
Order an extra to keep in the glovebox, and a fusible link. Cheap insurance.
Order an extra to keep in the glovebox, and a fusible link. Cheap insurance.
- Thread starter
- #18
Is this the same bolt as on the 80 series? I keep searching online for this p/n and keep getting results that say it won't fit my application.
80 series is p/n 90101-12144
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- #20
I ended up ordering 4 of these.
90101-12060 - Toyota Parts Deal
A little more expensive for shipping then I would have liked. I think I am just spoiled with Amazon Prime.
90101-12060 - Toyota Parts Deal
A little more expensive for shipping then I would have liked. I think I am just spoiled with Amazon Prime.
