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Cool. The cruiser I bought uses linkage instead of a cable. But the throw isn't right and by "d" I am already in 1St. So your info will help. I may look into getting a cable and some brackets depending on which method I can make work easiest. Where did u get the cable brackets? I ask about emissions because I'm going to tackle it myself too(starting with the evap). I just got a evap cannister from a 99 Tahoe at the junk yard, looks the same as the 2002 but has a really nice mounting bracket which houses the vent valve as well. Very few v8 swap threads focus on emissions, Obd2 connector(my aftermarket harness didn't come with one)cruise control, or check engine light. Also curious how your ecm is secured. Mine is sitting in a rectangular bucket where it can bounce around. Not asking u to answer all these questions right away, but maybe when u get to that point in your build thread if u wouldn't mind mentioning them I'd appreciate it.@White Stripe
This engine package does not run an egr, it comes from a 2002 Camaro, not totally sure but I believe it is ls2. It does require secondary air, evap and cats to be legit. I am running straight pipes st this time. I definately have A plan in the future to add a CARB legal exhaust and get the evap and air working correctly. Not going to be one of those who talk about it and never do it. I suspect the front driveshaft will interfere with a perminant efficiently mounted CAT system, But at this point it was a mad dash to get it running, and for now they are on hold. I will elaborate later in the thread on how the those items go together.
As far as the auto shift...
I messed around with the shifter base and swapping the lower connecting arm to the other side/ cutting the base and such, but in the end the stock Toyota shifter with its shift arm below the base cut and lengthened with a piece of metal worked the best. And allowed the rubber grommet for the shift arm to be utilized. I wound up getting a 91 shifter, using its base for the proper shift detects and using the 96 shift button, handle and shaft...fabricated a bracket for a GM shift cable and attatched to the trans View attachment 1589441View attachment 1589439 View attachment 1589440View attachment 1589442 View attachment 1589443I found the length and throw of the shift arm on the trans affected where I should drill and attatch the cable to the shifter arm. I simply measured the distance from park to low on the trans arm. Then I picked a spot on the shift arm that moved the same distance. I used a piece of paper to make marks at each end of travel. Draw a straight line and measure. It took a few tries until I found the right spot on the shift arm to drill a hole. After that I created the bracket to hold the cable. The first bracket I made was angled wrong and a little too long so I couldn't use it.
I would recommend installing the shifter and cable in the vehicle then placing the cable housing in the correct spot for adjustment both ways. Try to make sure you get a full range of shift. Then measure how long and what angle the bracket should be that holds the cable. Kinda like the measure twice cut once. It's a pain without a bracket which is partially why I made the first one wrong. I just needed a base line to go off of so estimated the first try then fin tuned off that. I did t get any pics with the cable installed but this is what I came up with.
Once the bracket is on the shifter I had to cut some of the LC body to fit it in place. Silicone and body glue to seal it all back up. But only once everything is in for good. I still haven't sealed it in as I know it's possible i may be pulling the shifter out for some reason. Figured I'd wait till I plan on going through a water crossing
@White Stripe
This engine package does not run an egr, it comes from a 2002 Camaro, not totally sure but I believe it is ls2. It does require secondary air, evap and cats to be legit. I am running straight pipes st this time. I definately have A plan in the future to add a CARB legal exhaust and get the evap and air working correctly. Not going to be one of those who talk about it and never do it. I suspect the front driveshaft will interfere with a perminant efficiently mounted CAT system, But at this point it was a mad dash to get it running, and for now they are on hold. I will elaborate later in the thread on how the those items go together.
As far as the auto shift...
I messed around with the shifter base and swapping the lower connecting arm to the other side/ cutting the base and such, but in the end the stock Toyota shifter with its shift arm below the base cut and lengthened with a piece of metal worked the best. And allowed the rubber grommet for the shift arm to be utilized. I wound up getting a 91 shifter, using its base for the proper shift detects and using the 96 shift button, handle and shaft...fabricated a bracket for a GM shift cable and attatched to the trans View attachment 1589441View attachment 1589439 View attachment 1589440View attachment 1589442 View attachment 1589443I found the length and throw of the shift arm on the trans affected where I should drill and attatch the cable to the shifter arm. I simply measured the distance from park to low on the trans arm. Then I picked a spot on the shift arm that moved the same distance. I used a piece of paper to make marks at each end of travel. Draw a straight line and measure. It took a few tries until I found the right spot on the shift arm to drill a hole. After that I created the bracket to hold the cable. The first bracket I made was angled wrong and a little too long so I couldn't use it.
I would recommend installing the shifter and cable in the vehicle then placing the cable housing in the correct spot for adjustment both ways. Try to make sure you get a full range of shift. Then measure how long and what angle the bracket should be that holds the cable. Kinda like the measure twice cut once. It's a pain without a bracket which is partially why I made the first one wrong. I just needed a base line to go off of so estimated the first try then fin tuned off that. I did t get any pics with the cable installed but this is what I came up with.
Once the bracket is on the shifter I had to cut some of the LC body to fit it in place. Silicone and body glue to seal it all back up. But only once everything is in for good. I still haven't sealed it in as I know it's possible i may be pulling the shifter out for some reason. Figured I'd wait till I plan on going through a water crossing
I think you got the same ref as another member on this board-at least that's what it sounds like. He too told a similar story. Talk to Valley Hybrids, they have been getting cruisers to pass and have a specific facility they go to.So I am a little burnt but I went to see the local REF today. He is really a stand up guy who is into cars and motorcycles and has been our local REF for almost 20 years. He has helped many friend and clients through these kind of swaps, so I trust his opinion and advise thoroughly. I asked about the LS in the 96 landcruiser. He was like too bad it's just about going to be impossible. Basically in order to get the CA BAR to certify a OBDII vehicle there are such tight guidelines to go by it is almost impossible.
The donor vehicle first needs to be of the same weight class or lighter than the one its going into.
The Donor's (in my case) engine, computer, and all modules associated, manifolds, CAT layout, fuel tank, canister and fuel pump module, AIR, Instrument cluster, ABS module etc... No longer are we allowed to modify our vehicles fuel tank to accept a GM FP module and canister etc. The Donor car's tank needs to be used.
As far as the ECM, the BAR requires a receipt from a dealer stating that the factory program has been loaded with VIN from Donor vehicle, which means no VATS bypass, ABS module BUS codes, Instrument cluster BUS codes....etc. There needs to be no codes stored at the time of the referee inspection and all monitors need to be met. To truly be a stand alone ECM these need to be programmed out of the OBDII code reporting which would make it altered and therefore not CARB certified.
He also explained to me that a few years back the BAR used to allow certain waivers to those who appealed some aspects of this, but these days with the BAR OIS Smog machine, the machine itself looks at so many aspects of the ECM that it will never fly.
He recommended that if anyone is interested in a LS swap on a smog vehicle that they should consider the EROD LS3. ($$$14K!!!) It is CARB certified on vehicles that are 1995 and older only. It is A BAD ASS setup, but not for my wallet. Since it is CARB certified there is no need to even see the REF, A regular smog shop can just punch in the CARB number and its done. If you are thinking on doing a LS swap on a 1996 an newer just stop unless you register in a non smog area like mariposa.
So I know I said I would get to that part on the project but after today's lesson, I learned it is possible but definitely not worth my time or headache. It will be registered out of state or maybe Mariposa county, or I can get creative to keep it on the road. To any others considering the LS swap, it is definitely worth it without a doubt. The above info was not really available to me just from blogging it out, most builds I found were not in CA and maybe even several years old, Since 2013 the BAR OIS was officially in place and all of the laws change and current stricter guidelines took place. However going into it I didn't really care if I had to find out of state/county registration. I was determined to get the engine in the friggin car.
Hope this helps some of the many Curious minds.