Builds Shoppy's Moonlight 80 LS1 Build 2017 (1 Viewer)

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Adding some accessories... the Bowfin roof rack is stout and goes together nicely. @dogfishlake managed to pull off a really nice setup and it is complete as can be when it arrives. Took about an hour to unpack and assemble.
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If you’ve never set gears, like myself it can be a pain in the ass.

First measure existing pinion depth of stock gear set.

Disassemble.
Measure distance from main cap to bottom of cap troph. This is the centerline offset.-important when setting new gear pinion depth

Set the new pinion depth (found etched on ring gear- sometimes with a +-.000# wich is the distance from normal stock set up that the pinion depth was measured) old bearings and check depth-adjust with shims as necessary.

Set preload and back lash and paint 3 teeth, add tons of resistance to ring gear turn pinion (or vise versus) to get pattern

Use the old bearings to trial fit everything until you get a perfect pattern.

His is only my third time ever doing this and it’s been years. I didn’t have a good idea of how to do it nor have a decent pinion depth tool so it was a royal PIA.

I’m a total stubborn DIY so I had to give it a shot. I can tell you I have about 12 hours per third member until I got them where I’m happy- lesson here was buy them built
 
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Here is the start of the front end. I found an extra housing and used the third member. Added 300m RCV’s Harrop e locker with nitro 4:88. 300m part time hubs, he’ll fire high steer, end rotors and pads.
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and am currently waiting on some heavy tie rod, drag link and panhard materials.
 
Joined
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Relocated panhard brackets to allow better clearance of the high steer, however this may change once I get the new materials and get to trial fit things better

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This is a really fun thread to read. BUT. I'm a little disappointed by the lack of gratuitous Slinky flex pictures.

Slinky flex leaves a sore spot in my behind for more than one reason. Future plans for links and coil overs.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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There is a lot going on here in a short time. Good work.

How well are your rear slinky coils dealing with being bowed after you installed the rear dc shaft and rotated the pinion up? Or did you relocate the coil buckets on the axle?

I can’t tell for sure from the photos but it appears that you left some angle at the pinion U-joint. I rotated my pinion up for zero angle on the rear joint but that has left my Slee coils rather bowed. This hasn’t changed how the vehicle performs as far as I can tell.

I ask this because I would like to put a set of tapered coils in the my rear since I already have them up front but I have doubts about how well they would like being bowed.

Have you had challenges to overcome with regards to drive line vibrations and spring performance?
 
Joined
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Messages
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Morro Bay
There is a lot going on here in a short time. Good work.

How well are your rear slinky coils dealing with being bowed after you installed the rear dc shaft and rotated the pinion up? Or did you relocate the coil buckets on the axle?

I can’t tell for sure from the photos but it appears that you left some angle at the pinion U-joint. I rotated my pinion up for zero angle on the rear joint but that has left my Slee coils rather bowed. This hasn’t changed how the vehicle performs as far as I can tell.

I ask this because I would like to put a set of tapered coils in the my rear since I already have them up front but I have doubts about how well they would like being bowed.

Have you had challenges to overcome with regards to drive line vibrations and spring performance?

So I went with a non DC driveshaft in the rear which i regret. I was informed that it was unnecessary and only adjustable rear uppers with extended lowers would be fine. I have had vibrations since that i suspect need a DC to fix. I've tried angle both directions and still have vibrations. No bowing of the coils yet but i still need to get more time on it.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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So I went with a non DC driveshaft in the rear which i regret. I was informed that it was unnecessary and only adjustable rear uppers with extended lowers would be fine. I have had vibrations since that i suspect need a DC to fix. I've tried angle both directions and still have vibrations. No bowing of the coils yet but i still need to get more time on it.
I have MT adjustab uppers and lowers and still needed the dc rear shaft. She runs smooth now but my coils are bowed. I think I will relocate the coil buckets when I go to the tapered coils in the rear.
 
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Are the bowed coils common? Is this something the OME J spring guys, along with SLEE 4" guys would be have to deal with as well? (I get how rotating the 3rd upward at ride height will do this... and I can see how adjustable upper arms can rotate it back down. Is the issue that everything is now moved back and the mounts are offset?)
 

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