Line-x on the white cap—? Photos? Comments? (1 Viewer)

[bwiygul]

thinking about line-x for the cap.

Has anybody done this?

Did you go white?

How does it hold against the sun (doscoloring)

How smooth is the texture?

How much better is the ride (sound deadening)

Would you do it again? Do anything differently?

Any other info that I may not know. Thanks

 

[thebigredrocker]

No matter what, go white.
Or else

 

[bwiygul]

I’m going white. I live in Idaho so we get a lot of sun and I want to know if anybody had any yellowing, if they’ve had white line-x used on the exterior. I know they have a UV additive too. But, I’m really wanting to see some pics if anybody has done it. Or if there are any problems with it.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I had the underside of my tub line-x'd It's a pretty rough surfuce. Tough stuff though.

Is your roof in really poor shape?

This fella used raptor on his lid: My 1976 FJ40 "Kit Car"

 

[bwiygul]

Well I have two. The original had the drip edge filled by the PO but it locked up some cancer. Probably wouldn’t be horrible to fix but I got a new cap in really good shape (the front lip needs a little caressing to even it up and a little surface rust) but I want to make this build somewhere in between full comfort resto-mod and original utility.

I’m thinking the line-x will help a lot with the wind Boise from the cap and give some insulative properites. Most likely give it some additional strength too.

But, you can’t really come back from it either. So I need to be for sure on it. Going to talk to the guy on Monday or Tuesday to find out about texture options if any. I’m not so concerned with a glossy, smooth cap but I also don’t want it to look like crap.

 

[leucadiacruiser]

FWIW I've got an FJ62 where rain gutter rust had long ago reached the point of no return. Last November had Line X done at a local shop here in San Diego.

Has anybody done this? Yep

Did you go white? Yes

How does it hold against the sun (doscoloring) So far so good, going on a year. Not sure if they added any UV addiditive.

How smooth is the texture? See pix - definitely texture but not really noticeable from a distance.

How much better is the ride (sound deadening) - Really no difference - that is, still loud - but at least wind isn't blowing through and tearing my headliner anymore

Would you do it again? Do anything differently? For my needs, this was the most economical option - the gutters were that far gone. I'm glad I had it done at a shop, they did pretty good with the color match and application. Hopefully get another 300,000 while the roof rots away underneath.

 

[White Stripe]

I think it's a mistake to bedliner the outside. The glossy finish is a major character trait of a 40. On the inside as a headliner I think it would be great.

 

[bwiygul]

So of the three....

-Line x
-Paint
-gel coat

Which is the best??

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

I was just quoted $750 line-x the inside of my cap. Crazy if you ask me. On the outside I wouldn’t do it. I like the original look outside and will be using lizard skin inside with no headliner. Good luck.

 

[Skydog]

I was just quoted $750 line-x the inside of my cap. Crazy if you ask me. On the outside I wouldn’t do it. I like the original look outside and will be using lizard skin inside with no headliner. Good luck.

I plan on using Lizard Skin (both products) on my tub - they each scratch real easy (but are durable). You planning on painting the Lizard Skin that you apply to the inside of your cap ?

~Skydog

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

I plan on using Lizard Skin (both products) on my tub - they each scratch real easy (but are durable). You planning on painting the Lizard Skin that you apply to the inside of your cap ?

~Skydog

I wasn’t planning on painting it. This will be my first experience with the product, is it recommended to paint over?

 

[thebigredrocker]

@Flatlanderfj40 that seems a tad high. I woulda guessed $350ish if you are doing the prep work. I paid $500 for the underside of my tub + the engine bay side of the firewall. Just black though, maybe tints cost more.

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

@Flatlanderfj40 that seems a tad high. I woulda guessed $350ish if you are doing the prep work. I paid $500 for the underside of my tub + the engine bay side of the firewall. Just black though, maybe tints cost more.

The white line-x is more expensive. I thought the same as I’ve been researching and finding instances of $300-500. It’s only 30 sqft or so.

@ginmtb just did the inside of his cap with Lizardskin and it looked good. Good enough for my junk

 

[thebigredrocker]

I need to test out the DIY stuff

 

[bwiygul]

Yeah the lizard skin is going on both sides of the firewall for heat and dB level. One thing I found is that if you put it on an area where there will be feet or loads the ceramic beads will break down andbe less effective.

 

[Skydog]

The LizardSkin is durable, but will easily scratch. It therefore must be top-coated. A properly applied paint will do just fine, although some go as far as top coating with a bedliner.
And the LizardSkin must be applied atop a primer, such as a compatible epoxy primer.

~Skydog

 

[kurtnkegger]

I talked to a line-x guy about doing the cap on my 40. He told me the stuff turns very hot in short order right after applied. If there are any cracks in the fiberglass, the heat will cause the piece to shatter. He said he did some work on a Corvette once, and watched and listened as the fiberglass self destructed under the coating.

I went with paint, and clear coat for mine

 

[bwiygul]

I talked to a line-x guy about doing the cap on my 40. He told me the stuff turns very hot in short order right after applied. If there are any cracks in the fiberglass, the heat will cause the piece to shatter. He said he did some work on a Corvette once, and watched and listened as the fiberglass self destructed under the coating.

I went with paint, and clear coat for mine

Hmmmm. That’s good info!!! Thanks!

 

[thebigredrocker]

Line-X is shot a 140 degrees dries in 3-5 seconds. Doubt 140 degrees would harm a 40 lid.

 

[kurtnkegger]

It's not the 140 degrees that the material is applied, but the substantial Thermodynamic Temperature increase created for the material to dry and cure in the 3 seconds. The bed liner is mixed at the application nozzle, where the combination of chemicals instantly start to react with each other. There is no stopping the rise in thermodynamic temperature once applied to the vehicle surface. That's what causes the fiberglass to shatter under the liner.