Idler & Tensioner Pulley Bearings, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt) (1 Viewer)
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- #22
I do like the tensioner bearing I sourced from NAPA years ago. The NAPA bearing which has run quieter than the OEM idler, at only 10% of cost. Cost is import to me, but quality & operability comes first. Hopefully this Advance bearing is just as good.
I'm going to put this $18 idler in and see how it does. But I'm not happy with Rock Auto, for not stating it was not actual photo on the picture itself.
I'm going to put this $18 idler in and see how it does. But I'm not happy with Rock Auto, for not stating it was not actual photo on the picture itself.
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- Thread starter
- #23
No, OEM's are still available.
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anyone know anything about this? Gates 36026 Drive Belt Idler Pulley Amazon.com: Gates 36026 Drive Belt Idler Pulley: Automotive
I thought I had a new toyota one in a box, but it turns out I don't, and I have to get a new one. Or a new bearing.
I thought I had a new toyota one in a box, but it turns out I don't, and I have to get a new one. Or a new bearing.
that was going to be my fail safe. I found an oem toyota pulley on amazon for 49 shipped.
My original had has 179,9xx miles on it. I think it's amazing it lasted that long. Hopefully this new one is good for another 100k.
I'm thinking this pulley gets completely overlooked at a dealer TB-WP job. Unless it's seized of course.
My original had has 179,9xx miles on it. I think it's amazing it lasted that long. Hopefully this new one is good for another 100k.
I'm thinking this pulley gets completely overlooked at a dealer TB-WP job. Unless it's seized of course.
I doubt they have the bearing for idler pulley.
I installed a Gates 36026 a few months ago, it had the same NSK bearing as the OE pulley it replaced. Picked it up, with a tensioner pulley and belt, from O'Reillys.
- Thread starter
- #30
Update on Hayden Idler pulley & Advance's National 203-ff bearing I used on tensioner. I'm replacing both after about 35K miles.
I'm using a Toyota OEM for Idler pulley/bearing this time, as I had one in shop. The Hayden wasn't shot, but was chirping a bit and and free spun to long.
The Nat 203-ff is bearing I used on tensioner, felt ok with a firm free spin and only spun a revolution or two. But it's now chirping loudly when cold. It may have been caused while doing a Fan bracket job, as I got it wet. But I only got a little coolant on it, then rinsed with a spray bottle of 80/20 water/vinegar.
I've found even (old) marginal factory bearing don't stand up well when they get wet. I can't say that for new OEM as I've never gotten those wet.
I'm using a Toyota OEM for Idler pulley/bearing this time, as I had one in shop. The Hayden wasn't shot, but was chirping a bit and and free spun to long.
The Nat 203-ff is bearing I used on tensioner, felt ok with a firm free spin and only spun a revolution or two. But it's now chirping loudly when cold. It may have been caused while doing a Fan bracket job, as I got it wet. But I only got a little coolant on it, then rinsed with a spray bottle of 80/20 water/vinegar.
I've found even (old) marginal factory bearing don't stand up well when they get wet. I can't say that for new OEM as I've never gotten those wet.
I'm trying to figure out right why my idler pulley seized and test the others. Its OEM, unfortuately the truck just under 500K miles and i have no idea how old it its. I hear what you're saying about water and thought that at first but and does a fair bit of offroading lots of deep water crossing and its never been an issue. However I cleaned the engine bay (which involved spraying some water, and accidently spilled some coolant which it looks like the sprayed behind it, so I thought maybe that. however isnt that more a seal issue from age then? Surely toyota knew these would be driven through deep water? I'm leaning toward the fact these can be neglected during a TB job and should probably be greased and checked (by hand spinning or mechanic stethoscope) at 30K or 50K intervals and replace at 90K (if you can afford) or at least the first signs or squealing or non-smooth rotation. I've read elsewhere that fan clutch and fan bracket should replaced together as they are designed to wear at the same rate.
I bought a Hayden pulley and it had a side to side play out of the box!. Ended up buying an oem. The 6301 bearing is thinner compared to the oem bearing inside the idler.
- Thread starter
- #33
OEM or aftermarket just don't do well if water gets passed the seal. Older the bearing the poorer the seal, the easier water gets in. Regardless, either will fail sooner or later. Without a doubt, OEM last the longest. OEM also seems to take longest to seize, after early warning signs.
During inspection, if I find drive belt pulleys bearings are shot, and I intend to replace anyway. I'll wash engine an radiator with pulleys in place. On the other-hand, if they're good bearings. I remove them before a heavy front of engine wash. Others times during a lite wash, I just avoid getting wet. Another thing I've be doing lately. Is letting engine idle as I wash. The pulleys spinning, keeps water out of a good bearing where seal is good.
@ShenValley100LC idler and tensioner pulley bearings seize because bearings fail. Age, water, dust, salts, time they fail. They always give early warning squeal. Typically thousand if not 10s of thousand of miles before seizure. Just that squeal is not always heard.
During inspection, if I find drive belt pulleys bearings are shot, and I intend to replace anyway. I'll wash engine an radiator with pulleys in place. On the other-hand, if they're good bearings. I remove them before a heavy front of engine wash. Others times during a lite wash, I just avoid getting wet. Another thing I've be doing lately. Is letting engine idle as I wash. The pulleys spinning, keeps water out of a good bearing where seal is good.
@ShenValley100LC idler and tensioner pulley bearings seize because bearings fail. Age, water, dust, salts, time they fail. They always give early warning squeal. Typically thousand if not 10s of thousand of miles before seizure. Just that squeal is not always heard.
yeah it turns out I'm a total idiot and very paranoid....and I shouldnt look under the hood without my glasses on. The (the very slight and momentary) squeal was unrelated it turns out. The pulley is actually spinning so smooth and with so little movement and noise I literally thought the belt was just riding over it. So here I am filling my online shopping cart with $600 worth of parts thinking I'm gonna do a whole timing belt and serpentine belt overhaul and they're both fine. Boy did I feel dumb.
- Thread starter
- #35
Hers is one misconception in testing pulley bearings with belt off. We see a pulley freely spin for a long time and think great. NOT GREAT.
A new pulley will not free spin more than a revolution. If any sound heard as it's spinning, it's BAD with a doubt!
Also a marginal drive belt will squeal if it gets wet, and be difficult to get rid of squeal. I've found the wear or stretch indicator on tensioner is a poor indicator. It's designed to tell us when to replace belt, but does not ever in my experience.
Tip: Order OEM belt from pre May 2005 100 series. They have different PN# and cost less, but are the same as post May 05-
I'm going to update the OP of this thread with some pictures and videos of tensioner bearing replacement (pressing bearing in new bearing). Idler we just replace the pulley assembly. By simple removing the drive belt, than pulley.
A new pulley will not free spin more than a revolution. If any sound heard as it's spinning, it's BAD with a doubt!
Also a marginal drive belt will squeal if it gets wet, and be difficult to get rid of squeal. I've found the wear or stretch indicator on tensioner is a poor indicator. It's designed to tell us when to replace belt, but does not ever in my experience.
Tip: Order OEM belt from pre May 2005 100 series. They have different PN# and cost less, but are the same as post May 05-
I'm going to update the OP of this thread with some pictures and videos of tensioner bearing replacement (pressing bearing in new bearing). Idler we just replace the pulley assembly. By simple removing the drive belt, than pulley.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Resurrecting an old thread (semi-old) as I have noticed a noise coming from front of engine that I believe is either the idler pulley or tensioner bearing. Since I do not know age of either and age of belt I plan to replace all of them. Will go with OEM for the idler pulley and belt for my '98.
However, question is for the tensioner, I have seen some discussion on the usage of a standard 6203 bearing. Some use the 6203-2RS type (rubber seals around balls) and others have used the 6203zz type (steel caged bearings). Question is, is there a benefit to go for one over the other? The zz is slightly more expensive (few dollars more) but that is about it.
However, question is for the tensioner, I have seen some discussion on the usage of a standard 6203 bearing. Some use the 6203-2RS type (rubber seals around balls) and others have used the 6203zz type (steel caged bearings). Question is, is there a benefit to go for one over the other? The zz is slightly more expensive (few dollars more) but that is about it.
McGeorge is confusing me. They say that part #16604-0F010 is discontinued, and the only idler pulley they have is part #16603-0W030. I searched up that part number on Partsouq and it doesn't look like the idler pulley. Should I just order #16604-0F010 from a different source for my '06?
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Go with a different source. ToyotaPartsDeal.com shows it available.
6203 with either cover is OK
word of caution: I tried to press out the old bearing without placing a proper support right around the bearing to support the pressure, and ended up bending the idler bearing pulley. Don't just rest the pully on its brim on the press while pressing. This is what I did and bended the pulley!
