Yes, The crank is held solid by the tube against the frame so you can apply correct torque.
Do I REALLY NEED to torque the crankshaft bolt to 304 ft lbs? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LS1FJ40
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Yes, The crank is held solid by the tube against the frame so you can apply correct torque.
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
It's not that bad. I've found quite a few people that have done it, but I can't find any that cracked a bellhousing. Not saying it hasn't and can't happen, but I'd think it would be highly unlikely.
I used the HF wrench to its 300 max and gave it a little more. As far as holding the crank stationary, there are ways to "pad" the bell housing so the 14mm socket does not contact the bell housing directly. I'm not talking about a thick rag but more like a 1/4" thick piece of steel plate or phenolic or that hard ass white plastic/Teflon (forgot the name) or a similar piece of aluminum which your son could hold in place while you do the torquing unless he is stronger than you. 
Be super careful while pulling on that torque wrench because I managed to break the small by-pass nipple off my radiator. My water pump, crank seal and oil pump seal job increased about 1000% in price and time consumption right there but I like my new CSF 2517.
Be super careful while pulling on that torque wrench because I managed to break the small by-pass nipple off my radiator. My water pump, crank seal and oil pump seal job increased about 1000% in price and time consumption right there but I like my new CSF 2517.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
I used the HF wrench to its 300 max and gave it a little more. As far as holding the crank stationary, there are ways to "pad" the bell housing so the 14mm socket does not contact the bell housing directly. I'm not talking about a thick rag but more like a 1/4" thick piece of steel plate or phenolic or that hard ass white plastic/Teflon (forgot the name) or a similar piece of aluminum which your son could hold in place while you do the torquing unless he is stronger than you.
Be super careful while pulling on that torque wrench because I managed to break the small by-pass nipple off my radiator. My water pump, crank seal and oil pump seal job increased about 1000% in price and time consumption right there but I like my new CSF 2517.
I'm pulling the radiator when I do it so I should be ok. The radiator is very new. Denso. Not see of exact age but less than a year from what the PO said.
I place a 1/2 inch drive 6 inch extension into the bell housing, the square in into the corner and the other end into the circle of the flywheel, done bunch that way never prob just spin the crank till you get it to lock up then torque the bolt , I used a 4 foot long torque wrench and go to 305, I weigh 150 if I can hit it so can you
Just to add to the list of whatever, I did the following:
Put a socket against the bell housing.
Harbor Freight 300# torque wrench plus a bump more.
Laid on my back and struggled. Two hands, maybe a foot, arched back....it's not that hard to do.
I'm another 150 pound type fellow who made it happen.
Checked it once afterwards, out of paranoia, and it was fine.
Put a socket against the bell housing.
Harbor Freight 300# torque wrench plus a bump more.
Laid on my back and struggled. Two hands, maybe a foot, arched back....it's not that hard to do.
I'm another 150 pound type fellow who made it happen.
Checked it once afterwards, out of paranoia, and it was fine.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Agreed, you won't come close. I regularly attend and provide training for seminars on the electrical industry. One of them, by Southwire, discusses the importance of properly torquing electrical connections. As part of the presentation, they have a bench set up with terminations and torque wrenches. Less than 5% of the terminations are completed within 10% or manufacturers specs. And this is with people watching and laughing at how far off these connections are.
Buy, rent, or borrow a wrench. Get with local MUD members, I am sure someone would gladly loan you one for a day.
As far as torquing it down, the easiest way by far is to do it from under the vehicle and use your legs against one of the vehicle tires for leverage. You will still be amazed at how hard it is but, it is all but impossible to do from the topside.
I was lazy and spendthrifty: I just paid ACC in Atlanta to handle this for me. I weighed the total cost of tools (3/4" drive torque wrench), time, potential of F-ing it up and decided I'd rather support small business. I'm a pretty good wrench (suspension, cooling system, steering pump rebuild, etc) and I feel confident I could've handled it but my time and peace of mind were more valuable than the money to replace the "Big 3" leakers of distributor, oil pump, and front main.
jfz80
Cruisin’
The right tool goes a long way ....
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Nice drama, but not realistic, lots have been torqued this way without problem. That pic is nice, but do you have pix of all of the cracked/broken bell housings from torquing bolts?
Hey farm girl, did you get it done yet?
Post some pictures.
Post some pictures.
Its just math. If youre bracing yourself against the tire under the vehicle youre basically deadlifting 150lbs with a 24" breaker bar.
I understand and you
Here is a google link.....I typed "cracked bell housing from leverage" Cheers!
cracked bellhousing from leverage - Google Search
Maybe it's been mentioned... you don't need a torque wrench that does 304. You only need algebra and an extension on the drive end of you torque wrench. ...not a pipe over the handle.
Then apply the following to find the input torque for a given extension length.
Torque wrench length: w = 18"
Desired torque: d = 304lb
Extension length: e = 54"
Torque input: I = 72lb
(304lb x 18) / (54 + 18) = 72lb
...this means a 54" drive side extension on the wrench requires that you input 74lb of force on the torque wrench. That means you can use normal wrench
Then apply the following to find the input torque for a given extension length.
Torque wrench length: w = 18"
Desired torque: d = 304lb
Extension length: e = 54"
Torque input: I = 72lb
(304lb x 18) / (54 + 18) = 72lb
...this means a 54" drive side extension on the wrench requires that you input 74lb of force on the torque wrench. That means you can use normal wrench
Unless that normal wrench is not up the task and breaks.
