Embarking on what looks to be a simple 80 series engine swap. (1 Viewer)

[Mikesta]

First, THE FSM rocks. Don't recommend swapping an engine without it.
EG-65 tells you what your going to do with more pictures than words... (right up my alley)
EG-67 is great too.... tells you what you need to do again with pictures and more words.
EG-73 tells you how to split the tranny from the engine... (I'll skip this part)

Here is the sick rig 247,XXX with a knock (still runs and drives)
Additionally, here is the engine that will be going in it

Never done it before with an 80 and to be honest, I'm a little giddy... sorta like a school girl listening to her favorite boy band from the front row.

I'm ready to jump in... but that would be foolish.

___________________________________________________________________

I'll start searching here on what others have done during their engine swaps.

My donor engine is 150k miles and it looks super clean, but it is out so I'm asking for any recommendations.

I have already sent the injectors in to be cleaned and will clean out the intake. This is my first 80 engine swap. I've never done an auto.

So should I order up a Pilot bearing? Rear main seal (though it doesn't leak yet)

What else... I'm pretty sure after I'm done with the swap this will be my camper rig (putting a camper up top) and I'd like to keep it for a Long time.

 

[Mikesta]

I was really hoping that the timing gears were the issue. Well after seeing a serious cloud of blue smoke today, don't think this is the case. I'll share what I determine the Knock is coming from when I take the engine apart.

I'm sending my Injectors in from my LX450 tomorrow and will be putting those into this engine (switcheroo).

This weekend, I should be able to get it out, next weekend in.... but don't trust me.... I have been known to lose interest in a project and move to another....

After I get the engine in and license it and drive it for a while, I may likely chop this rig up and make it into a Toyota Motorhome. This too subject to change.

Here are some pictures. Its the middle one and is now queued up! Wish me luck!

 

[jfz80]

you may find some help HERE





























cool project, just dont let it creep too far or we will never see you finish.
youve got a good handful of recent rebuilds to read up on. Best of luck !

 

[D'Animal]

Good Luck with the swap.

What Pilot bearing would you order and where would it go?

 

[LandCruisinMike]

mind if i ask how much that combo cost you?

 

[Mikesta]

Good Luck with the swap.

What Pilot bearing would you order and where would it go?

I was hoping someone would catch that! (humor)

 

[Mikesta]

Let it begin

 

[Mikesta]

Compression numbers front to back

170/180/155/165/180/180

This is after letting it warm up for 5 minutes, pulling all plugs.

 

[Ugly Dwarf]

Good luck with the project Mike.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Looking forward to this Mike!

 

[rockrod]

Sounds like a jack hammer. Good luck!

 

[Mikesta]

Son is grounded from iPad, computer and even Lego's and has been for a while now so I asked him if he wanted to help me take apart a big lego. He took to it pretty well, reading the FSM, finding the location and removing the parts.

He said the air cleaner was the funnest part.

This engine had toyota red in it and after going through the back logs and history of this rig on mycarfax it was serviced very frequently at toyota's across WA state.

Interior Part is done, Engine harness is unplugged and shifter bolts are lose.

Exterior is gonna take me about 2-3 more hours then I'll yank the beast out.... I'd like to do it without pulling the hood off, but that might not be possible.

1. Ordered all the gaskets, plugs, wires, vacuum lines and other things that are needed for everything Valve cover and above.
2. I will be cleaning the full intake portion and the Valve body to hopefully prevent future P0401 CEL codes
3. Ordering crush washers for the exhaust.
4. I think the spare engine has PS on it, so I might take it apart and rebuilt it while the engine is out
5. Might as well replace the water Pump while the engine is out and have a good spare in case of an emergency down the line
6. I pulled the valve cover off the spare engine, at 151k miles all the Spark plug gromets are still pliable (not rock hard like the 200k mile engine), but they will need replacing
7. Ordered a Pilot bearing


Not really much tonight to really speak of but here are a few pictures. This is my first 80 series engine so definitely speak up and tell me what to do! I'm learnable.

 

[2fpower]

While you have it out, I would recommend that you change out the oil pump seal at the bottom of the front of the motor. 8 phillips screws that right now you have a great angle to take out. Only hard part will be taking the crank bolt out, but with the right impact it can be done.

PHH. Do I have to say it really?

Also might think about replacing the gasket material (tube) for both oil pan gaskets. Much easier now.

If the while you are at it strikes, pony up to the supercharger.

 

[arndog123]

you may find some help HERE

LOL.

 

[2fpower]

LOL.

That is funny.


Dammit, wife told me I need to join.

 

[Mikesta]

mind if i ask how much that combo cost you?

When all is said and done it will be about $5500-$6k

That is funny.


Dammit, wife told me I need to join.

I remember when I had (4) FJ45 Wagons sitting in the back yard... very true.

 

[Mikesta]

Just a little update.

Called CDAN and ordered parts so now I'm waiting for more parts again. (will update parts #'s when they come in

Ordered:
1. Head gasket kit (will all seals needed above)
2. Rear tranny to tcase seal
3. Rear main seal
4. Flux capacitor seal - Part # FTR
5. Throw out bearing - Part #WTF
6. Windshield wiper Bearings
7. Steering pump rebuild seal kit
8. Oil Pan junk
9. 2 sets of radiator hoses
10. Crank seal front oil seal
11. new Fuel hose
12. Plugs
13. I'm sure I'm forgetting something else.

Tonight I'm going to hang out with the cruiserheads www.seattlecruiserheads.com and enjoy some good company among people that I have nothing in common with but cruisers. Cruisers bring together a good group of guys/gals.

On a side note, I noticed my spare t-case has a chunk taken out of it, likely from when it was pulled... bummer

Pictures - because everyone like pictures. No progress other than this today.

 

[D'Animal]

My local dealer cannot find these, even after I provided the VIN # of the vehicle.

Just a little update.

Called CDAN and ordered parts so now I'm waiting for more parts again. (will update parts #'s when they come in

Ordered:
4. Flux capacitor seal - Part # FTR
5. Throw out bearing - Part #WTF
6. Windshield wiper Bearings

I should really just call Dan

 

[Mikesta]

Picked up a redneck 40 today, stuck it in a corner of the yard so didn't get much done, but yesterday I was able to split the engine/tranny after work. Censored word, censored word.

I've searched around here for some pictures of how others have mounted this engine on their stands. Seems that there is a lower pan part... I think...

EG-76 says mount it and I can definitely mount it but which thread (hole locations) have you guys used. Do you have any pictures.

I'd rather look like a fool by asking than do it wrong and drop the block or crack it. I will definitely go grab some grade 8 hardware...

Thanks... pictures coming soon.

 

[2fpower]

On a side note, I noticed my spare t-case has a chunk taken out of it, likely from when it was pulled... bummer

Pictures - because everyone like pictures. No progress other than this today.

That chunk that is missing appears to be the speedo connection on the rear output of the tcase. Assuming you have a decent one on your old rig, that is a real easy swap, and the seal for that output shaft has to be replaced by going through it anyway, so my .02 is to take the guts you want from the new tcase and put them in the case from the old one AFTER you put in a new output seal.

FSM will walk you through it... oh, and there is a great video on Youtube on how to do it.

Keep the pics coming.