cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Nice! Want to post a parts list?
1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter merbesfield
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merbesfield
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- #462
What do you mean parts list? What are you looking for and I would be happy to post up the list.
Not too much advice being offered here.
On another note, anyone know where to get some Vinyl like this original stuff from 1966? AtlasX any ideas?
What's that on?
Shane
merbesfield
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- #464
What's that on?
Shane
Like the original red vinyl that you had a little of. Or something close to it in color. I do not have to have the exact factory texture, just want high quality and a period look.
merbesfield
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- #465
Found this web site for window bead channel material. I am not familiar with what the factory stuff looked like to know if any of these products will work. Let me know.
Glass Accessories
Glass Accessories
Mark,
The progress looks great. I just went back to page one to remember just how far you've come.
When Marv Specter restored the blue and white LV for Toyota, he told me that FJ60 rubber works perfect for the glass guide in the LV doors with 3/16" tempered or laminated glass. I think I've got a piece in the garage. If so, I'll take a pic and post it tomorrow.
The progress looks great. I just went back to page one to remember just how far you've come.
When Marv Specter restored the blue and white LV for Toyota, he told me that FJ60 rubber works perfect for the glass guide in the LV doors with 3/16" tempered or laminated glass. I think I've got a piece in the garage. If so, I'll take a pic and post it tomorrow.
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merbesfield
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- #467
Well, we finally cut the floor pan out today. Nice to see that POS drop to the floor.
Also nice to see the new floor pan out of the crate.Thanks Treeroot. Of course that was the easy part. And putting it back in will also be the easy part. Fixing all the other rusted spots before the floor can go back in is going to be the bitch. But we will take it one step at a time. Gene, I totally missed that you herniated your disc. Are you ok? My back has been manageable with multiple epidural injections. Hope you can avoid surgery if possible. I am trying to hold off as long as possible.
So did Marv have new glass cut and it is 3/16" thick, which fits the FJ60 rubber? Isn't the original glass in LV's a safety glass? What is the original glass thickness? I have never measured it and I am not at the shop.
merbesfield
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- #468
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working our way around the perimeter of the floor pan. It takes a lot of time to get the rusty spot welds located. It is amazing how strong the rusty floor still is even as rusted as it was. The thickness of the steel is very impressive.
working our way around the perimeter of the floor pan. It takes a lot of time to get the rusty spot welds located. It is amazing how strong the rusty floor still is even as rusted as it was. The thickness of the steel is very impressive.
merbesfield
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- #469
more 3
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merbesfield
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- #470
more 4
some shots after getting the pan out. Went ahead and pulled the captured nuts for the body mounts out. The bolts had been torched off and were not coming out so figured it would be faster to make new or drill them out on the bench. The thought is to media blast the exposed areas once the carnage is complete and try to get some sort of rust inhibitor paint on the areas that will be covered. But not sure how you do that and weld at the same time. I would not think the spray bomb weldable primers would last very long once back in the environments and it you paint something like POR15 on the insides of these parts can they still be welded without inhaling a bunch of burned paint fumes? My mechanic who is a ex-airplane mechanic was telling me about the green paint they used to douse the insides of the planes with to prevent rust?
some shots after getting the pan out. Went ahead and pulled the captured nuts for the body mounts out. The bolts had been torched off and were not coming out so figured it would be faster to make new or drill them out on the bench. The thought is to media blast the exposed areas once the carnage is complete and try to get some sort of rust inhibitor paint on the areas that will be covered. But not sure how you do that and weld at the same time. I would not think the spray bomb weldable primers would last very long once back in the environments and it you paint something like POR15 on the insides of these parts can they still be welded without inhaling a bunch of burned paint fumes? My mechanic who is a ex-airplane mechanic was telling me about the green paint they used to douse the insides of the planes with to prevent rust?
The LVs originally came with 3/16" safety glass in all openings except the windshield which was 1/4" laminated safety glass. Whether or not this glass was originally laminated (2 pieces of 1/16" raw glass with a 1/16" film laminate in between) or tempered (1 piece of 3/16" glass that explodes into small pieces when broken) I'm not sure. Eric's LV had original rubber in all glass openings, and all except the windshield was 3/16 tempered. However, the safety stamp on this glass says, "Temperlite" which tells me it was probably American made replacement glass.
I cut all of the glass for the LV that Marv restored for Toyota. We decided to make it all 1/4" laminated to to give it the vintage look. When we tried to put the 1/4" in the doors, it was too tight, so marv special ordered 3/16" laminated for the doors only and it worked great.
My personal preference is to put 1/4" laminated glass in the windshield and in the cargo area, and 3/16" tempered in all of the doors. The reason for putting tempered in the doors is so the glass can be blown up to access a person trapped inside in case of an emergency.
merbesfield
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- #472
Can you tell me more about the FJ60 rubber you mentioned for the doors? I also agree with you about the tempered on the doors, make sense for the safety aspect. You have me wondering now about my glass bc I think my glass is original only bc everything on my truck appeared to be very original and in place. I will go check it and report back.
merbesfield
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- #473
Got 2.5 hours of good solid work in last night. Cut and fitted my first piece of metal to the left outside rocker. Went well. Now I just have to do the other 100 spots around the truck and I will be finished. This piece still needs a little bit of fine tuning, but it is basically there. I am satisfied with it especially given it is the first one I have ever done. Next up will be getting the welding skills honed.
This piece still needs a little bit of fine tuning, but it is basically there. I am satisfied with it especially given it is the first one I have ever done. Next up will be getting the welding skills honed.
merbesfield
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testing first few bends.
testing first few bends.
merbesfield
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- #475
starting to size the patch. this will be bead blasted before it gets welded to remove the surface rust.
merbesfield
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more test fitting. I need to add a little bit of metal on the back side for the spot welds to attach to and trim off the bottom which you can not see in the picture.
more test fitting. I need to add a little bit of metal on the back side for the spot welds to attach to and trim off the bottom which you can not see in the picture.
merbesfield
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How do you rust proof the inside of the rocker panels, which you will not be able to get to later, before they get welded closed? I was thinking that if you were to coat them with something like POR 15 it would melt off while welding and the Weld Thru primers are not recommended for long lasting protection. Let me know what others have done.
How do you rust proof the inside of the rocker panels, which you will not be able to get to later, before they get welded closed? I was thinking that if you were to coat them with something like POR 15 it would melt off while welding and the Weld Thru primers are not recommended for long lasting protection. Let me know what others have done.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Mine will be getting a thorough dousing of Krown Rust Treatment once complete and annually after that. They drill holes to access the rockers and all other inaccessable areas and then spray in their stuff and plug the holes later with plastic plugs.
Have you tossed the old floors yet? I'd like to get the tool caddy and that from your old floor as mine are missing and my floor is not being replaced as it is fairly solid.
merbesfield
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- #479
I have seen that on TV before. I always wondered if it really works. Can you do it yourself or do you have to pay every time? What is the cost? I would think that if I were only street driving the restored LV once would be enough for a long time. Still seems there should be something to treat these areas as I am rebuilding.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I do it on my BJ60 each year if I can. When I was in Canada I did do it each year and I do think it works. Cost isn't that bad when you look at what you spent to get the LV where it is!! It cost about $100 - 200 to do the treatment the first time and a little less each time thereafter.
Any word on the old floors?? I really do need some bits from them if possible.
