Factory Bumper Swingout Tire Carrier Build, ditched for 4x4 Labs Bumper Build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Threads
44
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612
Location
Sandia Park, NM
I wanted to get more clearance by moving the spare tire out from the stock location underneath. Putting the spare inside was not an option, and I thought I wouldn't need an aftermarket rear bumper (more on this later). At the time SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr. did not have any DIY kits available (they are still unavailable as of Oct. 2020), so I based my build on his wonderful design as detailed in this thread Factory Bumper Swing Out Build, but I built mine from scratch with some changes.

For the spindle, I wanted to use the Comp4x4 heavy duty spindle Tire Carrier Hinge Kit - HEAVY DUTY - 1-3/4" Spindle Shaft, but their website seems to be abandoned and they didn't respond to any of my emails or calls. So instead I used the Summit Machine "Bomb Proof" Spare Tire Hinge Kit assembly: Spare Tire Hinge Kit. The Summit Machine spindle is super beefy and as an added bonus less expensive than the Comp4x4 version, but I have one complaint: it is too wide, which makes it hard to fit. If I were to do it over and still couldn't get the Comp4x4 spindle, I would probably use the RuffStuff spindle instead: Spare Tire Spindle. The Comp4x4 spindle design uses a DOM tube as a sleeve, which supposedly reduces failures from directly welding on the spindle, see their blog post: News, so I duplicated that idea with the Summit Machine spindle.

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I cut the angle of the arm and welded it instead of notching and bending the tube as SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr. did, but it seems to be plenty strong.
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I don't yet have a plasma cutter, so I used the 4xInnovations tire carrier wheel mount plate: 1410045-Tire Carrier Wheel Mount Plate and Support Gusset. This is a great product that I would highly recommend.
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I had to slightly modify the gusset that came with the mounting plate to accommodate the upward angle.
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For the plastic stops, I used UHMW polyethylene. I just needed a little bit, so I asked this Ebay seller to not drill any holes in a couple of his body lift pucks, worked great: Body Lift Blocks, Pucks 2"-3" diameter with variety of lengths | eBay.
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Nearly finished.
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The swingout works well, but after only 2 wheeling trips, I've got a ton of rock rash on the plastic bumper wings and also destroyed one of the mounting points, I think I need something more heavy duty made out of metal for the rear. My current plan is get a 4x4labs basic rear bumper and refab the swingout I built into the 4x4labs bumper.

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The factory plastic bumper wings were getting trashed and I was dragging the rear bumper, so out with the old and in with the new (4x4Labs rear bumper). A sawzall with a carbide blade sliced right through the quarter-inch steel tube and plate I welded on previously.

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I wanted to reuse the swingout I already built rather than getting a 4x4Labs swingout, so I just got the basic 4x4Labs bumper kit and used a hole saw to drill a hole for the spindle. I then cut and welded in the sleeve and spindle.

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The design of the new swingout was very similar to before, but I only used one length of the 2x2 tubing instead of two, which makes it lighter.

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I had to angle out the tire carrier since the 4x4Labs bumper is tucked in tighter than the factory bumper.

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Overall it works well, but I think I will add some locking mechanism to prevent the swingout from slipping forward (even though the latch is tight) when wheeling.
 
Looking good dude!!
 
The design of the new swingout was very similar to before, but I only used one length of the 2x2 tubing instead of two, which makes it lighter.

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I had to angle out the tire carrier since the 4x4Labs bumper is tucked in tighter than the factory bumper.

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Overall it works well, but I think I will add some locking mechanism to prevent the swingout from slipping forward (even though the latch is tight) when wheeling.

I believe 4x4 labs uses a solid 2x2 (not tubing) to keep flex down. Is this something you are concerned about using tubing or is there a workaround?
 
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I had trouble with the swingout moving forward (even though the latch was really tight), making it very hard to open the latch, so I replaced the cheap Powertec latch with a higher-quality locking Destaco 341-R latch. For extra security and to prevent any forward motion, I added a spring-loaded T-handle (Amazon product ASIN B00GAZQJ0O).
I used the bottom of the spindle I cut off and some extra DOM-tube sleeve to make a metal ramp that the pin slides up into the locking hole. After beveling the T-handle pin, it works surprisingly well and will easily slide up the ramp and lock without needing to lift up the handle.

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My last mod will be to add a mount for a Hi-Lift jack. However, I realized I put the tire too close to the body and will need to re-fab the swingout to push the tire out a little so the jack will fit. :bang: Overall I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

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Nice solutions man. My Summit Cruisers Jr. swing out has been rock solid despite my attempts to foul up the assembly. There's been a lot of bumper envy going on for me lately, but I went nutso and welded in a second crossmember and put my hitch receiver tube through the 4 bolt holes. I think my setup will be a little bit harder to reverse.
 
I got a nice large dent in the bumper from banging on a rock, probably on Golden Spike trail last year. I straightened it out using a big bolt (probably overkill) and braced it well, definitely no crumple zone now, if there ever was one :rofl:.
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Then I added a hi-lift mount for the swingout, original design. I put a piece of 1/4" rubber inside to keep it quiet.

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I lowered the swingout arm since the metal stopper on the bumper was too high and hitting the tailgate when it was down. I also moved the stopper on the arm to a safer position above the recovery point because it got caught on a rock and bent out on Golden Spike. It is now all painted, works great!

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Looking good! You're inspiring me to get off my :deadhorse: and make something. I hate having my spare under the truck
 
I left the house with my swingout not latched one day. Big ol dent in the quarter panel. :bang:
 
I may add a gas spring strut at some point so it opens on its own. One important lesson learned: a hard stop for the swingout angle is critical; I added one similar to the 4x4 Labs design (see 4x4labs rear bumper build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4x4labs-rear-bumper-build.142286/#post-1936954) after I had to hammer out the body sheet metal because the spare tire hit and dented the quarter panel when my son opened it on a hill while camping.:bang:
I left the house with my swingout not latched one day. Big ol dent in the quarter panel. :bang:


Here are a few ideas on build solutions to prevent that body damage from happening again, When i built my tire swing out i set it up with a quick pin to lock it into position when open, and i also welded on a positive stop tab made out of 1/4 inch thick angle just in case it swung open on it's own to keep the tire from smacking the side of my truck
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Here are a few ideas on build solutions to prevent that body damage from happening again, When i built my tire swing out i set it up with a quick pin to lock it into position when open, and i also welded on a positive stop tab made out of 1/4 inch thick angle just in case it swung open on it's own to keep the tire from smacking the side of my truck
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hi, is this a custom bumper?
 
hi, is this a custom bumper?
No, it's still the factory stock bumper that i build a custom swing out tire carrier to bolt to it, Just a few weeks ago i made a matching swing out gas can carrier for the other side of my bumper, Links to both threads can be found below
 

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