Factory Bumper Swing Out Build (1 Viewer)

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SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 17, 2013
Threads
32
Messages
1,073
Location
Kansas City
Finally, the time has come to build a swing out. I recently went to 35" tires, and I didn't want to try and cram a brand new 35" tire and wheel underneath. After drawing inspiration from several threads on here, I started ordering parts. I will also be relocating a 2" hitch into the rear cross member for my bike rack.


A really beefy 1 3/4 spindle

A spring action locking T pin (didn't end up using)

A Powertech latch

A pair of clear LED brake/turn signals


Various Supplies
1/4" plate
2x4x3/16 rectangular tubing
2x2x3/16 square tubing
different sizes of flat strap
Aluminum flat strap
2 1/8 hole saw
2 3/4 hole saw
2" reciever tube
Rustoleum Lens Tint
Polyurethane
Hardened Metric Hardware for receiver

I started by removing the reciever hitch, mud flaps, bumper wings, and aluminum step plate.

It will be nice never having to see this reciever hanging down again
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This all it takes to get the spindle away from the crossmember/frame.
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Anyways, the bumper wing support that holds two 12mm bolts needed to go.
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Then we ground down the area in prep for the 1/4" plate.
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Then we welded on a 5"x4" 1/4 plate to cover up the holes and give us a nice flat surface to work with.
 
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Then we started measuring and tacking it into place. When we ordered the spindle, we opted for the longer 6.2" sleeve, but ended up having to trim it so it would fit in the stock bumper. We also had to trim the 2x4.
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It was really nice being able to slide the spindle out of the sleeve for constant adjustments, however, the spindle will be welded in, and the bumper wing needs to be able to come off.
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I traced out where the spindle sleeve was sitting and used a rotozip to cut the bumper wing to have more room.
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Once we were certain we could take the wing off with the spindle in place, I welded it all up and put 4 tacks on the spindle that could be ground off if I ever needed to take it out.
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I then added some angle iron to provide a new bolt down location for the bumper wing since we had to cut off the bracket that used two bolts to hold it down.
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Then our focus turned to the bumper trim. On the swing out builds I have seen, the top bumper trim wasn't used, but I did not want to not use it.

I traced out where the spindle sat and took measurements to then transfer over to the bumper trim.
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In order to cut it, we cut two holes in a piece of wood that the bolts would slide into. Then put it in the vice and used multiple clamps to keep it down and from getting ripped apart by the air saw.
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I tried to save the paint from getting damaged, but ended up having to repaint it after cleaning up where we had to cut it.
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Then I took the wing back off and bolted up the trim. The swing out arm was also painted with a self etching primer and satin black paint to prevent rust.

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To be continued...
 
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Very nice. Subscribed! I just picked up my first 80 series and have enjoyed reading about your build on the Expedition forum. Your truck is one of my favorites!
 
Nice build. I have a similar design going on.

You should gusset and extend some plate forward under / near the spindle towards the wheel well while you're in there for some rear armor protection.
 
Excellent work, as always!
 
Would you be interested in selling a kit like this? I would be interested in putting something like that on my rig.

Count
me
in​
 
Nice work! I've built one of these countless times in my head over this long, cold winter. Looking forward to seeing how you wrap it up.
 
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Fill that gap inboard of your 2x4 on the factory frame/rear crossmember so it doesn't slowly bend/kink/etc over time?

Pretty awesome that all hidden cleanly under the factory bumper!
Thanks! Looking at that photo, it does look like it could possibly flex over time and I'll look at doing something this weekend.

Very nice. Subscribed! I just picked up my first 80 series and have enjoyed reading about your build on the Expedition forum. Your truck is one of my favorites!
Thanks a bunch!
Nice build. I have a similar design going on.

You should gusset and extend some plate forward under / near the spindle towards the wheel well while you're in there for some rear armor protection.

Yes, after finishing it up, I definitely think placing a gusset facing forward would be a good idea.

Excellent work, as always!
Thanks!

Would you be interested in selling a kit like this? I would be interested in putting something like that on my rig.

Count
me
in​

I believe there is definitely a market for these, and I have thought about building some to sell, but at this time I don't have the time to build any. It might be something I might look at later this summer when I am done with classes, but I wouldn't count on it.

I would assume people would want a bolt on option to make the install easier?

I do have plans to make another swingout for myself to hold my Yeti 45 on the passenger side, so I could potentially mock up a bolt on option for people who don't have welders. Granted it would be a swing out for the passenger's side. Not sure if that's really a big concern for most people, but I wanted my tire on the driver's side.
 
Bolt up on the passenger side is exactly what I'm after. I've got the Gobi ladder which is fabricated to install on the DS (top-most clam shell has an acute angle matching the angle of the roofline which can't be flipped to the PS). I'll ride this out and watch your progress and selfishly copy (or have someone do so for me).

Classes? Good for you, stick it out, do well......seems like decades ago when I finished grad school (two decades to be exact).

Take care....
 
Great job.....as always! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 
Looks clean! Man i'd be in for one of these if you ever start selling them. The only one i know that still makes these is kaymar, but i cant stomach the shipping costs from AUS.
 
Made some decent progress on the swing out this weekend. I was hoping to have it finished and installed, but the new injector install took a lot longer than anticipated, and the welder ran out of wire.

Completed relocating the hitch into the rear cross member last night. Started with a plate we already had that mounted behind a pintle hitch. Chopped it down a little bit and started notching for the receiver. Then we traced it onto the crossmember and went at it with a plasma cutter. This plate will be where the latches latch on to.
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First Land Cruiser to shoot flames like a Lamborghini Aventador?
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Welded in with a spacer plate below. I plan to sleeve the reciever and run two more arms to the frame for more support, but for now it's plenty sturdy to hold my bike rack and bikes.
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My OCD also kicked in and I went around wiping clean the entire underside...frame, axles, shocks, coils, air bags, control arms, sway bars, etc.
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Really brings the departure angle up and looks so much better without the bulky factory receiver hanging down. Now I have 28" to the bottom of my bike tire.
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After that was completed, the swing out arm could be built. I wanted it to fill the gap so it will consist of two 2x2s notched and bent. Notching them to get the right bend to remain flush with the rear crossmember was really tricky and took a couple of tries.

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I will be fully welding up the seams, and boxing the ends. Right now I'm not sure if I want to bondo over the welds in between the two 2x2's or just paint over some nice welds.


I ended up running out of wire when I was welding up the front so that's where I was forced to stop.
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I also managed to "smoke" the LED tail lights that will be going in the bumper wings. I used Rustoleum lens tint with a fog of clear coat over them.

Going to look stealthy, and for anyone who is concerned about visibility, they are still plenty bright.
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Once the arm was welded up, we could weld it to the outer spindle housing. It took at least two hours just to get the arm to have a level look with the bumper.

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Early the next day, we started on the upright, stop plates, wheel plate mount, and the gussets.

I ended up grinding down the welds on the front and then smoothing it out with a flap disk for a very clean smooth look.

I wanted the tire slightly tilted because it was higher than the tailgate and I wanted it parallel with the lower metal on the hatch. Getting the right angle for this also took longer than expected.

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Then came the stop plate. It is 1/4" angle iron spaced out slightly to follow the shape of the bumper wing. Behind it is a polyurethane stopper that has a recessed place for the nut to hold it on.
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After using the receiver for a week, I wanted to redo the design and place bolt holes further out for more strength. The bolts right around the receiver in the factory 4 holes made me nervous. Especially when I hauled several bikes.

The latch hook was welded onto the receiver plate.
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The swingout also needed a stop pad that would keep the arm from flexing and putting stress on the spindle. So I made another polyurethane spacer with a slightly slanted top that the swing out stop slide into. Then I recessed hole for a self tapping steel screw.

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In order to make the hollow aluminum cross step stronger, we went to the local hardware store and bought a 48" strip of 1/8" flat aluminum. Cut that into three pieces and pushed them into the crossmember. We also put some gorilla glue tape between the pieces to keep them together and make it a really tight fit.

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The entire swing out was sprayed with Rustoleum bed liner with a hopper gun.
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Painted the swing out cap to match the trim

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For the license plate, we used a piece of aluminum U channel to space it out. Eventually I will mount it on the swing out with the cooler, but for now this will do.
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To further add strength to the spindle arm, we took a 6" piece of 1/4" steel. I had to trim the angle iron piece slightly, but now it is all welded together and extremely stout.
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The final task was to install the tinted brake/turn taillights. We measured and found where they would fit the best requiring the least trimming on the inner bumper skeleton.

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Used a rotozipp to cut the bumper wing and a plasma cutter to cut the inner skeleton.

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