I see you're in Wichita Falls. My parents live out in Burkburnett. Next time I'm up there, I'm in San Antonio, I'll send you a message.
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Does anyone have a good breakdown of what all wiring/splicing needs to be done on the stock harness? I am trying to get all my ducks in a row before I pull my engine and get started.
It’s not a straight forward question unfortunately. What I’d recommend is when you pull your motor, disconnect it from the vehicle carefully. What you need most is to gain access to the connectors going to the Toyota ECU behind the glove box. From there when you thin out the Toyota harness you’ll keep the T-case harness, AC, oil pressure harness and water temp harness. I didn’t keep the test port from Toyota. I think that can be saved some. Since it ties into ABS. So I don’t have that anymore. I’ll be doing a review on how I did mine. Issue is there a multiple ways to accomplish the same thing on theses swaps.
Also, go ahead and print out the all the engine, electrical supply, and dash wiring diagrams in color and tape the pages together and start to become familiar with them. Also print out the pages that have what the connectors look like. So you can identify which pin is where in them.
Thanks guys. My 80 is a 95 so OBDII. Did you leave the factory ECU in place and just strip out whats not needed?
No the factory ecu is removed. I personally would get the LS wiring diagram and the 1fz wiring diagram next to each other. Identify each wire and it's purpose in each diagram. Take notes as needed. Then make a new diagram for your swap which will have some new wires for the LS and some left over from the 1fz. I personally would have it all planned out before doing the swap.
This is how made sense of some of it.
I've been reading all 170 pages of this the past few days and had a couple questions. I am picking up an 05 LQ4 and 4l80e tonight and ordered the 4l80e adapter from advance adapters/marks yesterday. With the 4L80, did you guys have to modify your driveshafts or the crossmember? Im reading mixed things it seems with the bigger trans.
Well I think that combo is going to be great, as you can see in my posts. the modifying of the driveshafts and trans cross member depends on where you mount the motor. Since there are numerous ways to mount the motor everyone's answer will be different. Typically, there is a slight modification to trans cross member and driveshafts. There seems to be about 3 main ways to mount the motor, Selkirk motor mounts, cruisermatts from his shop, or FAB your own. Each will have its own set of peculiarities. Not sure where you are in vehicle prep, but you have time to plan that out by getting the truck ready first, a lot of degreasing, and front end work can be done!
Do not forget to tap and helicoil Marks Adapter, the aluminum threads suck.
Thanks for the help sir. I am absolutely going to clean the motor/trans up and my engine bay before anything goes in. I ordered the Cruisermatts weld in engine mounts so hopefully i can position them where i dont have to modify the driveshafts. I am looking into helicoil kits also for the adapter. Thats a shame considering what it costs.
Awesome, I’m sure people who used those mounts will fill you in on placement and additional mods.
Where Im at.
Hopefully someone will chime in with the same setup. What helicoil size and kit did you use on the marks adapter?
I didn’t. And now I have to pull it back out!! What ever size is needed for the stock center diff to trans mount bolts. So re use those bolts.
Ahh man, that sucks. It seems to be super common those threads strip out.
Yeah that aluminum is too soft to get a decent torque on them. Additionally there were a few blind holes that you’ll need to add a washer to so as to not bottom out the bolt before a good torque. Another lesson learned is that I put my t case on after I installed the engine and trans. Because bolted up it’s like 20 ft long. It was a pain wrestling that thing up from the ground. Issue is you’ll probably want to put your motor in a time or two to check for fit. Then maybe put it all in. If not you’ll need a buddy, to get it on a jack while you wrestle with it. It’s just so dang heavy and unbalanced.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I attempted to install the L96 (iron block) + 6L90e + T-Case all at once the last time I installed the motor (hoping it is the last). I couldn't do it. Way too long, heavy, and cumbersome. It also moves the center of balance close to the very back of the motor. I probably could have done it with help. I too will have to struggle putting on the t-case after the fact. I think I might pick up cheap low profile transmission jack from HF.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
It helps to drop the whole package into the bay at a sharp angle, landing the t-case onto a pumped up floor jack and then slowly lower the engine while simultaneously dragging the floor jack back. Still need a buddy.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
