BadReligion
SILVER Star
What trail? Rear diff with axle locked? Are the GXs semi or FF?
Timbren vs Durobump (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tex68w
- Start date
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What trail? Rear diff with axle locked? Are the GXs semi or FF?
Lockhart Basin, took a bad line through a section with a bit too much skinny pedal.
Rear diff blew, with center locker on, and rear spartan locker aka lunchbox locker.
The GX is semi floating based on what I saw today.
BadReligion
SILVER Star
I can only imagine how fun that was on the way out. But sounds like you made it.
For the bump stops, I was going to order a set of Durobumps for my 100 and 200, but now want to give yours a try. For the 100 application, there is an option for 34/35" tires, so I'm guessing it is a longer bump stop (mine is on 35"s). With the 200, I do not see any options for different tire size. I'm assuming the "standard" bump stops are good to a 33/34" tire?
@BadReligion Yup, you’re spot on for the 100 series!
For the 200 series, it gets funky because some folks run AHC, which has its own built in damping at the limits of travel, so I want to make sure I don’t send those folks longer bumps - it just ends up with bumps being engaged super early (basically riding on them) and wearing out. I suggest the standard, unless you kept the factory AHC.
We’re moving soon, so new orders have a longer lead time. But I promise we’re worth the wait!
@tbisaacs You know it! I needed an excuse to get an 8.2 in there. I think I have one now
Well considering the truck isn't but three years old I am surprised by the corrosion on the end of these OEM bump stop bolts. They were a real bear to get out because of it. One project down, 19 more to go lol.
Mine are completely welded on. I gave up on the spacer i needed to install. And i never give up on a project.
I recruited big brother to get mine off
- Thread starter
- #29
That's exactly what I had to resort to using, one 1/8th of a turn at a time lol.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Does penetrating lubricant help at all? I like Kroil or PB Blaster, but 50/50 acetone and ATF is supposed to be the bomb.
I used a giganto pipe wrench to move my bump stops. Had to grind a lot off to clearance for my Kings.
I'd like to upgrade to the ones you just installed.
I used a giganto pipe wrench to move my bump stops. Had to grind a lot off to clearance for my Kings.
I'd like to upgrade to the ones you just installed.
- Thread starter
- #32
I am sure any type of penetrating lube would certainly help, especially if allowed to soak overnight. I didn't use any as I expected them to look better than that for less than three years old. These Toyota's rust on the assembly line lol.
That was my fear at first so I took it slow. I can imagine that if your Cruiser is 5+ years old and has spent any time up north or where it snows, this is a very real possibility.
If you break off the stud in the frame, weld a nut on it! It’ll break up the rust, and you can stick a socket on it.
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Looks like you have some King 2.5s up front. I had to clearance the sh*t out of the bumpstop housing to get mine to clear, then ran some Nitro bump stops (came with their new UCAs) that were a lot smaller in diameter than stock. Wondering if your bumpstop was making contact at some point and that fatigued the metal.
I went nuclear right out of the gate and just cut a big chunk out, then welded in a patch.
Since you might have to clearance this area a bit more anyways, this would be one way to get the remains of the stud out.
- Thread starter
- #36
It's close to a 2" socket, maybe 1 7/8"? I used the giant monkey wrench and it worked, just not a lot of room to swing it for more than a 1/8 rotation. For what it's worth, it took a lot of torque to get them to move, almost to the point of where I thought I was going to strip the edges or break it off. Having the larger wrench was sort of like having a cheater/breaker bar to get that extra leverage. How big or little are your musk-les?
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Looks like you have some King 2.5s up front. I had to clearance the sh*t out of the bumpstop housing to get mine to clear, then ran some Nitro bump stops (came with their new UCAs) that were a lot smaller in diameter than stock. Wondering if your bumpstop was making contact at some point and that fatigued the metal.
I went nuclear right out of the gate and just cut a big chunk out, then welded in a patch.
Since you might have to clearance this area a bit more anyways, this would be one way to get the remains of the stud out.
I did chop off some of the forward bump stop and grinded down the post a bit. I have a few mm of clearance between the forward bumpstop and coil. That's not the issue here though. The picture I showed is from the rear most bump stop post which doesn't contact the shock coil. Basically it's just seized in there since the truck spent 2 years in Canada. So when I attempted to remove it with a pipe wrench the thing just snapped. I soaked it in PB Blaster for 2 consecutive days.
Did you try the freeze spray?
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I had the same issues removing the stock rear bumps. These areas are prone to rust.
- Thread starter
- #40
I guess I better hurry up and replace them soon before they age further and become so bad that I have to cut them off.
