Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build (2 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

Is this for ease of integration? I am thinking about the future where the fusible links are going to be harder and harder to find, but i dont mind leaving it.

4/5 of the fusible links are for your body wiring that gets left alone after a swap. If you are going to keep it forever and actually know how to wire things then sure you could replace them with something like a modern fusible link box out of another oem but most people have no idea what they are doing.

You really shouldn't have to modify anything with the body wiring for a V8 swap besides jumping the AFM so the fuel pump runs. The benefit of that is you can use the the FSM schematic to trouble shoot all of your body wiring in the future.

@ToyotaMatt makes new fusible link setups so if you are concerned just buy two new ones from him and you'll have anew and a used spare. You will always be able to buy fusible link wire and new terminals in the future and rebuild them if you absolutely have to.

 

[BurntToast]

4/5 of the fusible links are for your body wiring that gets left alone after a swap. If you are going to keep it forever and actually know how to wire things then sure you could replace them with something like a modern fusible link box out of another oem but most people have no idea what they are doing.

You really shouldn't have to modify anything with the body wiring for a V8 swap besides jumping the AFM so the fuel pump runs. The benefit of that is you can use the the FSM schematic to trouble shoot all of your body wiring in the future.

@ToyotaMatt makes new fusible link setups so if you are concerned just buy two new ones from him and you'll have anew and a used spare. You will always be able to buy fusible link wire and new terminals in the future and rebuild them if you absolutely have to.

Roger that. Any visual aids or schematics on where the body harness vs GM harness intersect? Sounds like a deep dive

 

[BurntToast]

In more prep for removal, I continued with more harness saving (maybe unnecessary) and removed the intake airbus (hopefully reused) and the intake manifold since the wiring hardness is buried under there.

Anyone have a diagram of the firewall ports? There are a few vacuum hoses that I don’t get. Especially one from the distributor to the passenger firewall

 

[cruisermatt]

Distributor to firewall is just a breather for the distributor cap. Cap the firewall.

Gm harness and Toyota should only really intersect where you get your key-on power for the injector/ignition relays and fuses. I plan on making a plug-in for this very shortly

 

[BurntToast]

Finally wrapped up the carpet project. It was not without struggles or mistakes. Overall it was worthwhile but I will show the good and bad (mostly my install fault).

Carpet kit instructions from dnp are very useful and I should have read them more carefully. Very excellent insights.

The carpet is molded to the major body shapes of the body, but leaves a bit to be desired. I’ll be honest and say the addition of MLV definitely complicated this so no fault to the manufacture on this part.

First point of trouble, this white beam supports the dash frame ( I think) and requires very careful fitting and trimming. This is my first complaint of the kit, wayyyy to much overhanging material beyond the formed/molded areas. Seems like a easy manufacturing fix to update these borders.

After trimming much of the center console area, the kick plate and dead pedal are next. The instructions say to cut around it but that looks bad in my opinion, carpet should be covered at the edges as default.

Second issue. The heel wear rubber/plastic interferes with the dead pedal (it would sit underneath it). Either you cut the plastic, or remove it.

Not sure if this is a manufacturer issue, an installer issue, or it’s for a 60. I plan to find some rubber mats anyway so this is workable, I cut the stitches and pulled it off.

My pops and I were able to screw the dead pedal over the carpet, so no exposed floor. We removed any MLV in this area.

Either way this leads to a 3rd and final issue, stitching quality. Its pretty average. The plastic wear plates are held on by single stitch and have somewhat poorly hand cut borders. The edges that do have seams, are ok, but can fray if you arent careful. A quick hit with a lighter fixes any of this.

 

[BurntToast]

Overall I am very happy with the outcome! Plenty of work, but it smells 1000% better than it used to and feels much newer. Thanks to dnp for the instructions.

She needs a major vacuum, but that is another day.

 

[matubrembrem]

Overall I am very happy with the outcome! Plenty of work, but it smells 1000% better than it used to and feels much newer. Thanks to dnp for the instructions.

She needs a major vacuum, but that is another day.

View attachment 3159461

View attachment 3159464

Looks really nice! Great job!

 

[BurntToast]

Today was more work removing anything holding the driver train into the body. Fuel filter and fuel lines disconnected, and then exhaust pipes and driveshafts.

Some heat persuasion was required. I also feel like every single possible oil joint leaks on this vehicle

 

[cruisermatt]

More leaks the better. That means it will be really clean underneath. Thank you for not cutting wires.

 

[BurntToast]

More leaks the better. That means it will be really clean underneath. Thank you for not cutting wires.

Almost cut the oil pressure sending unit/switch cause I couldn’t find the plug….. but yes nothing from the original harness is cut.

Once the oil is gone she should be very clean. Maybe that’s why there is no rust down there

 

[Jamieson22]

Once the oil is gone she should be very clean. Maybe that’s why there is no rust down there

I know my 3FE is self-basting.

 

[BurntToast]

Today was a solid day, all the preparation work paid off. Started with removing the two 17mm transmission nuts, followed but a jack to hold the Tcase, then removing the 8x 14mm bolts holding the crossmember in place.

Few photos of the engine hoist setup. Its fairly secure but you feel on edge the whole time. Picked up this hoist and load leveler for $100 a month or so ago and it worked pretty damn good.

Slow and steady, up and forward, etc etc. Its not hard, just watch for wires you forgot. I only missed a ground wire from the body to the rear enigine bracket, and the ground from the body to the passenger mount.

 

[BurntToast]

Higher and higher she goes, until you hit the garage door with your hoist arm...

The garage steps down to the driveway about 1.5" so that was fun to deal with also

Careful zig zagging kept the front feet on the garage floor.

Successful but sketchy touchdown. Yes I know to be careful on the weight on the main pan, but this was about as good as it got. Jackstand under the header for rollover protection.

Open bay full of opportunity. Time for cleanup, tape and paint.

 

[matubrembrem]

Today was a solid day, all the preparation work paid off. Started with removing the two 17mm transmission nuts, followed but a jack to hold the Tcase, then removing the 8x 14mm bolts holding the crossmember in place.

View attachment 3171811

Few photos of the engine hoist setup. Its fairly secure but you feel on edge the whole time. Picked up this hoist and load leveler for $100 a month or so ago and it worked pretty damn good.
View attachment 3171818

View attachment 3171813

Slow and steady, up and forward, etc etc. Its not hard, just watch for wires you forgot. I only missed a ground wire from the body to the rear enigine bracket, and the ground from the body to the passenger mount.

View attachment 3171821
View attachment 3171825

Awesome work! Having all that iron flying is definitely a tense experience, even when you know it’s secure. My garage also has a lip that is tough to get over with metal casters. We used a ~4ft long 2x4 that was laying around as a big lever to help nudge the hoist up and over, one side at a time.

 

[Dubs2017]

Very nice. That is a gratifying day spent in the garage.

 

[BurntToast]

Pulled and inspected the transfer case today. Looks really pretty solid inside.

This hexagonal cover came off first, and needs a 36mm socket to get the main nut off underneath. Next pull off the rear yoke/flange, 32mm socket needed.

Picture of the washers, spacers, and speedo matching worm gear

Be careful removing the cover, as if you don't push the idle shaft thru the cover, you are pulling that who subassembly.

Looking at the idler shaft (think thats what we call it) and orientation of the thrust washers.

 

[BurntToast]

Input shaft condition

This plug was an absolute mess. Bolted the case to the bench and a pair of Knipex Cobra pliers fixed that.

Suggestions on how to get this last shaft out? I took out the snap ring but that one is in there tight.

Bench full of parts. Suggestions on rebuilt kits and pro/cons of twin stick and 4:1 kits are welcome

 

[matubrembrem]

Input shaft condition

View attachment 3172870

View attachment 3172872

This plug was an absolute mess. Bolted the case to the bench and a pair of Knipex Cobra pliers fixed that.

View attachment 3172873

Suggestions on how to get this last shaft out? I took out the snap ring but that one is in there tight.

View attachment 3172884

Bench full of parts. Suggestions on rebuilt kits and pro/cons of twin stick and 4:1 kits are welcome

View attachment 3172885

I put a block of wood over the threaded end of the shaft and hammered it out.

 

[BurntToast]

Today I am working on engine bay cleaning, and my wife is painstakingly removing the old purplish tint.

 

[BurntToast]

Questions for @cruisermatt and @dbbowen or others

• What do y’all do with the convoluted line from the tank to the charcoal canister?

• How much of this engine harness remains?

• How much of this is stock?

• Do you remove all the brackets, hoses, etc to paint?