Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build (2 Viewers)

[bbslider001]

I am a proud Sequoia owner, but thoroughly enjoying this build! I love the attention to detail and not making it outlandish. Looking forward to more!

 

[bbslider001]

Sounds good. Might have to reach out to a local shop

Paint is a little ways out, I think waiting till the motor mounts are welded in might be a better idea. Finding a suitable donor is a nightmare. No good LS except people who want $5k for a 250k mile used one....

That is just dumb for that money. Could do a Cummins? LOL

 

[cruisermatt]

plenty of collision damage trucks around here for <$2K that run and drive. Fly in, drive the donor home, stop by to pickup parts and a beer on the way

 

[BurntToast]

plenty of collision damage trucks around here for <$2K that run and drive. Fly in, drive the donor home, stop by to pickup parts and a beer on the way

getting closer and closer to considering that.....

 

[BurntToast]

Been pretty unmotivated, but this weekend going to finish the wheel well prep. Thinking possible lizard skin on the bottoms. Anyone know the difference between the Sound and Heat stuff?

The old Toyota sprayed stuff is inconsistent so i have resorted to a wire-wheel. Pain in the ass.

Other option is a 3M undercoating or similar

Post-Paint Detailing: Undercoat Wheelwells the Right Way

It was a bummer, but when we had our 1965 Mustang painted the painter neglected to mask off the wheelwells, so Poppy Red paint drifted onto the old undercoating

www.motortrend.com

Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ
Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ

 

[dbbowen]

Been pretty unmotivated, but this weekend going to finish the wheel well prep. Thinking possible lizard skin on the bottoms. Anyone know the difference between the Sound and Heat stuff?

The old Toyota sprayed stuff is inconsistent so i have resorted to a wire-wheel. Pain in the ass.

View attachment 3245037

View attachment 3245038


Other option is a 3M undercoating or similar

Post-Paint Detailing: Undercoat Wheelwells the Right Way

It was a bummer, but when we had our 1965 Mustang painted the painter neglected to mask off the wheelwells, so Poppy Red paint drifted onto the old undercoating

www.motortrend.com

Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ
Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ

Get some dry ice and iso alcohol from the grocery store and use that to get the toyota spray on stuff off, it should harden and crack off. It works for the crappy sound deadening nissan uses so should work for what toyota uses.


I think the lizard skin is meant to have 2 coats, one of the heat stuff and the other of the sound deadening stuff. Like youre supposed to use both.

 

[BurntToast]

Small update, have a few leads on engines in Dallas, TBD. 5th gen and 8L90 would be awesome, but why isn’t there a single transmission to tcase adapter out there for the 8 and 10 speeds? Seems like a simple product.

Picked up some BMW seats locally from a very nice FJ40 guy. Gonna pick up some Torfab brackets for these

@cruisermatt @torfab you guys do any 5th gen stuff yet?

 

[BurntToast]

Started looking at the BMW seats today. They already have a 555 timer wired into the CAN high to keep the module awake.

Just have to decide on a better connector situation

These are the heater wires I’m sure. Anyone have thoughts on controlling these? I assume there is no thermostat setup, just on or off?

Diagram found online for future reference

 

[sschruff]

Been pretty unmotivated, but this weekend going to finish the wheel well prep. Thinking possible lizard skin on the bottoms. Anyone know the difference between the Sound and Heat stuff?

The old Toyota sprayed stuff is inconsistent so i have resorted to a wire-wheel. Pain in the ass.

View attachment 3245037

View attachment 3245038


Other option is a 3M undercoating or similar

Post-Paint Detailing: Undercoat Wheelwells the Right Way

It was a bummer, but when we had our 1965 Mustang painted the painter neglected to mask off the wheelwells, so Poppy Red paint drifted onto the old undercoating

www.motortrend.com

Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ
Amazon product ASIN B002H9CMCQ

Grab a few bags of dry ice from a local grocery store, rubber mallet, 3-5lb maul, and make your life easier!

On the sound/heat sprays: Sound first, then heat. Use a depth gauge for accurate application. Just finished both applications on the interior cabin, doors and firewall next=)

 

[BurntToast]

Grab a few bags of dry ice from a local grocery store, rubber mallet, 3-5lb maul, and make your life easier!

On the sound/heat sprays: Sound first, then heat. Use a depth gauge for accurate application. Just finished both applications on the interior cabin, doors and firewall next=)

So you are applying it to the interior? I am considering doing it in the engine bay, hope it could handle that.

I already did a full interior tear down, sound deadener and mass loaded vinyl, so I don’t plan on going back to the inside

 

[sschruff]

So you are applying it to the interior? I am considering doing it in the engine bay, hope it could handle that.

I already did a full interior tear down, sound deadener and mass loaded vinyl, so I don’t plan on going back to the inside

I did a mixture of sprays: Lizard Skin heat &sound for interior application; Second skin heat & sound for firewall, exterior. My painter wasn't comfortable with the underbody application primarily because of space/time constraints. Spoke to Jason and he's going to do the underbody while the body's off for the frame swap.

If your door panels & headliner are still off, look at Cascade Audio (link below); I'm using some of their products for the final stages of heat/sound - like the thermo-acoustic blanket for the roof, VB-2HD for door seals, and VB-4.5 which will replace the jute padding.

And nice work on the seat wiring, super clean and detailed!

Links: Click on the 'install' tab for each products and it'll show application/install pics

Website: Automotive Noise Control - Soundproofing - http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm

Floor, VB-4.5: Flexible, lightweight decoupled barrier for cars - http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/vb_45.html

Doors, VB-2: Mineral filled vinyl-copolymer - damper - http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/vb_2.htm

Exterior small areas or to seal one of the water-based products if using for exterior application: Exterior grade vibration damping spray - http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/vb_1s.htm

 

[BurntToast]

BMW Seat Swap PT1 - Electrical

Today we are playing electrical engineer. To start many of the connectors on the bottom of the seats were cut, but after some testing and new tools, I narrowed down the total pins on each seat to their essentials.

Pinout can be viewed here(google doc for pinout) and tenative wiring diagram here.

This is the BMW Diagram, and is mostly accurate

Power supply testing, for pinouts, but also to measure nominal current draws.

Seat heating elements wiring

Seat module wiring for drivers side, unmodified. This will all get cleaned up.

Next post will be explaining more about the tenative diagrams

 

[BurntToast]

BMW Seat Swap PT1 - Electrical cont

Here is a snapshot of my working excel document. This tracks each pin, gauge, nominal amp draw, tentative fuse, etc. This later changes in the diagram as i combine circuits.

Snapshot of the wiring diagram. I plan to use something like TE's Deutsch DTs or similar for connectorization.

View attachment 3334226

As you can see, FJ80 switches are chosen for "Toyota-ness" and ease of circuit integration. Plan is for "high" to be both heater elements in parrellel (up to 8.5A combined) and in series for "low" (1.5-2A).

Anyone with FJ80 switches can measure the geometry? Want to see how far off they are from the coil holders.

 

[BurntToast]

BMW Seat Swap PT3 - Electrical

Final Wiring Diagram (i think )

 

[BurntToast]

BMW Seat Swap PT4 - Mechanical

I went with @torfab brackets, as they seem to be the go-to. One small issue I assume is year to year seat variance.

My centerline between bolt holes seems to be almost exactly 16.25" where the torfabs seem to be made for a 17" spacing. Can torfab or anyone else confirm BMW messed with this? or maybe my seats are newer than I thought?

 

[BurntToast]

Spent a few hours getting the seat brackets opened up to allow for lateral adjustment with this year of BMW seats

Also think I’ll use this block for my internal power distribution. Likely one bank for switched and one for constant. Will likely run 6ga wire from the batteries to this one

 

[BurntToast]

More parts are arriving, including a few hundred bucks in tools…

Also picked up both ignition tap kits from Cruiser Cult and some FJ80 seat heater switches

Switches are drop in for the 6X console

 

[BurntToast]

Took some time and finished the drivers seat connectorization.

I ruggedized the poor cheap 555 signal generator a bit, didnt want the leads slipping off over time. Also swapped the straight headers for 90deg

Crimped the motor higher power wires into a 3 pint Deutsch connector and the rest of the heater and signal wires into an 8 pin

Wrapped all in Tesa tape. Passenger side tomorrow

 

[cruisermatt]

Well at least everything else will be done when you put an engine in it !

 

[BurntToast]

Both seats have been connectorized and installed.

One of the PO must have had the passenger door hit while reversing or opening. This cause the door hinges to bend and the front of the door to get caught on the fender. I replaced the hinges, replaced the missing door check, and massaged the sheet metal back to stockish

Aligning the door sucks

My wife was also kind enough to do a deep clean on the console. Thing was a mess. Very deteriorated and probably will get a fresh coat of SEM and a potential custom armrest.