NLXTACY
Wits' End
About to make more. I made a set for Timmy for a video he was doing.
Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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I'm taking it apart starting tonight. Barring some unforeseen problem, I will use the tool and short shaft and have it back together this weekend. The dealer happened to have the seal in stock. I'll order the longer shaft when you are stocked. These tools also work on my Nissans.
I just happened to catch this one when it started to drip today. I installed the new seal last year, 7,000 miles ago. Didn't leak. Trip to CO and many off-road trips. It was on a big off-road trip last weekend. Came home and it was dry. I had just looked under the truck Tuesday night and thought about how lucky I was that nothing was leaking or damaged. This morning, I made a short trip to the neighborhood dentist and it started dripping after returning home. It's a real drip. Almost like I caught it in the act.
I'm going to figure out why the seal only lasted a year. Last spring, when I did the most mud crossings, the seal was new. The seal area and underside have been dry as a bone until I took a short trip yesterday. I've been looking under the truck more than usual this week after last weekend's off-roading trip that had a combination of water, mud, dust, and rocks. I suspect that mud collected between the wider outer ID seal and the smaller inner ID seal and over time cause the inner seal to wear prematurely. The wider dust ring was designed to keep out dust and maybe some amount of water.
Just an idea.
Just an idea.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I’m very curious as to why it failed. I just did the passenger side new axle and seal and it’s been dry so far knock on wood. I would have thought it would either leak within the first few hundred miles or it would last 100k+
I can't tell why it leaked. When I used the seal puller on it, it deformed the shape. It did have a bit of road grit built up around the outside seal edge. The leak started very quickly.
- Thread starter
- #146
I can't wait to get your longer handle. I've used your "new to me" seal tool w/short handle to install more than dozen front diff side seals, in last few months. You nailed the size perfectly. Works great for both sides, seat perfect and save me time. But the longer handle will really make it easier and faster to use.
I'll make a new video of seal and front drive shaft install, after I've the longer handle.
BTW: Tried local HF to buy seal kit with longer handle. Seem they discontinued or can't get during these times.
I just used the tool. I put the seal in the freezer with a thin film of red grease around the outer edge so the seal would not pinch or tear during installation.
It very easy to install. I just pushed it into position with my hand. The tool is flush with the axle tube.
It feels like a uniform depth when I run my finger around the inside.
It very easy to install. I just pushed it into position with my hand. The tool is flush with the axle tube.
It feels like a uniform depth when I run my finger around the inside.
That seal can be pesky. Kinda a must have tool. I am mystified that Toyota didn't design the recesses to just allow you to knock them in.
Just completed this seal replacement. But I am not sure that I have the axle set in deep enough into the housing.
After I installed the new seal.
Before I removed the axle and installed the new seal.
After I installed the new seal.
Before I removed the axle and installed the new seal.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver
Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver (ASD-2)
The next batch from anodize arrives in a few days. Finally crossed the 1000 unit mark. It fits ALL Toyota 4WD IFS trucks.
- Thread starter
- #152
Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver
Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver (ASD-2)absolute-wits-end.com
The next batch from anodize arrives in a few days. Finally crossed the 1000 unit mark. It fits ALL Toyota 4WD IFS trucks.
HF discontinue last I looked there, and I never did see at my local HD.
BTW: I've used your seal driver tool, a dozen times or more in 6 moths. I love it. It's holding up well and a perfect fit, just like you said Joey! THX's
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
The leak he had at inner boot may have only been the typical small clamp weep. This was not a reason to replace a front drive shaft. He may have took a good FDS and replace with junk a AF FDS needlessly!
Paul, I have read your other posts where you mention simply reclamping the boot if it's weeping like that. My driver side looked like that and has been leaking for who knows how many years. I am really considering replacing the entire FDS but should I just reclamp and see how it holds up? I'm concerned with how long it's been leaking combined with the fact that the passenger side completely tore at the inner clamp and the driver side might not be far behind at 256k. Pretty sure they are original from 1999.
- Thread starter
- #154
Certainly you can re-clamp and just see how it does. At minimum this buys you more time.
Typically you can see about how much CV grease has slung out. Since the grease is very difficult to wash off, most is still visible in/on the area it slung onto. If not more than a few table spoons, re-clamp works fine.
But, most at 250K miles aren't much good. Unless vehicle always keep at stock height. As lifting after the inner CV has broken in, they don't typically last all that long. Also the wheel bearings & axle bearings, were they always serviced properly. Which very rare to find. If not, outer axle splines and groove typically in bad condition. Additionally vibration from/of, poorly service wheel bearings. The FDS outer CV bearings and axle splines, do not like the vib.
But don't just toss out, what may be a good FDS.
We want to look at it's overall condition:
1st condition of snap ring groove. We want to see nice sharp 90 degree angle all the way around, to capture snap ring securely.
2nd is the condition of the axle splines. If more than 30% of splines/teeth worn away, consider replacing.
3rd condition of each CV joint. FSM just states check for remarkable play. "Can you feel any play". That's "remarkable". A little is expected with age.
4th Any remarkable feel of the inner CV bearing as it's extended and compressed. Any is not good, and is a sign it will start click in turns soon if not already doing so.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Thanks for the reply Paul. Lots of Toyota dealers were having a sale for the weekend with 10% off plus free shipping so I bit the bullet and got a new axle + parts...
Price seemed pretty good and I didn't want to have to potentially buy at a future date when no sale plus prices are higher plus supply chain issues...
On a side note, they all come with core charges now, but my local dealer wouldn't take the last one I bought because the invoice didn't have a special part number indicating I paid a core charge. What is everyone else doing to get the core charge back?
- Thread starter
- #156
When dealing with shipping more than core $. Eat the core charge or buy local.
BTW: Nearly every FDS I've had shipped in (last was 2019), dust seal was bent in shipping. They can be straighten, just takes time. Due to that, shipping cost and core charge. I only buy locally for last 2 yrs. Which they never have damaged dust seal, nor core $, nor shipping $, just tax.
I passed on a great deal, the week before X-mas. Because core charge vs cost to ship back.
BTW: Nearly every FDS I've had shipped in (last was 2019), dust seal was bent in shipping. They can be straighten, just takes time. Due to that, shipping cost and core charge. I only buy locally for last 2 yrs. Which they never have damaged dust seal, nor core $, nor shipping $, just tax.
I passed on a great deal, the week before X-mas. Because core charge vs cost to ship back.
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
The one I ordered last year had a bent dust seal too. Had to straighten it. The dealerships local to me charge full retail price on things like this. Plus tax. So it seems worth it to me to deal with the bent shield?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Should be good. Pretty darn close to perfect. The leaks come when you drive the seal too deep.
It’s a little low- but I think where others have experienced leaks is when it’s not evenly set( higher on one side) or used non-OEM.
