I'm certainly not an expert but I would say they don't look great, but they also don't look like a source of clunking.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I did the refresh and I’m as fallible as anyone. Lol. The only internal work I did was the BEBs. Head has not been off.That's significant bearing wear for 4000 miles.
I would be interested in knowing what the cam bearings and cyl walls look like.
Who did the engine refresh?
I did the refresh and I’m as fallible as anyone. Lol. The only internal work I did was the BEBs. Head has not been off.
Would cyl wear speed up rod bearing wear this significantly?
No, but it would be indicative of any oiling issues.
Did you use clean all surfaces and use assembly lube?
Plastigaged all 6 today. All bearings showed clearance on wide end of spec, about ~.075-.080mm. Max clearance is .10mm according to the FSM.
I checked my notes from the install and the standard size Taiho bearings plastigaged at .050mm when they went in. (Assuming I can trust my notes, lol.). Could that be too large a gap abs cause this??
So the Taiho bearings took a .025mm beating in 4000mi? I’m still at a complete loss as to how.
I was running Rotella T5. Any chance that’s too thin an oil for the motor in the southern US?
Injection pump timing was set to the tag that came on the freshly rebuilt pump from GTurbo. Which I don’t have in front of me at the moment unfortunately…What was the injector pump timing set to? Too advanced can flog big ends in no time, even worse on these old girls with sensitive big ends/timing specs to start with and again even worse if you lug them hard in low revs have high oil clearance and poor oil quality. I think this is why in the later 1hdt (92 onwards) they changed the piston bowl and changed both base pump timing and internal timing to give a smoother combustion and make it easier on the big end bearings. Early pistons small bowl is 1.29-1.34mm and late wide bowl is 1.18-1.24mm, from what I have gathered with my couple of failures and talking to a couple of engine builders and pump builders is always set to the less advanced setting with these motors.
I’m currently trying to track down a micrometer to check for anything out of round. Another fun part about trying to sort this out on the road away from my shop in a rural area…. At least it’s a pretty spot to break down. Lol.i would check the crank journals for ovality. your bearing sizing was bang in the middle of spec, pretty much perfect imo.
ive never heard of a problem with anyone using standard sized bearings. there are multiple score marks on the bearings, including what looks like two particles have picked up and embedded themselves in the bearing.
is the crank scored? what were the bearings like you replaced?
ime bad bebs "knock", when they knock epic failure is imminent..
removed these recently from a 92. motor ran and sounded great...
I’m definitely putting in new bearings. Just trying to decide on standard or .25 under…to me the bearing damage looks to be from foreign debris. the "damage" is not enough to be causing your clunking.
you could discount this by fitting new bearings, cheap and your over halfway there work wise.
JMO. as we know, diagnosis can be the harder part of mechanicing..
ha ha! she is just fine where she is..
Rotella T5 15w-40 semi-synthout of curiosity what oil are your running?
I didn’t do anything to the crank other than clean it up and put the Taiho bearings in.So, you didn’t do a crank grind? Just a polish? Or nothing?
I prefer if not doing machine work to put in OEM bearings. Bottom of your block will be stamped with seven numbers. These are your crank bearings size from the factory. You may have a 2222222 or a 2223222 or a 2221222. Never seen anything else. You can order these from Toyota as per the block number stamp. IMHO it is far better than a generic “standard” bearing.
Piston slap can also cause noise. This can come from wrong ring gap size or wasted BEB.
It is unlikely the crank is damaged but if it hasn’t been checked how do you know.
Injector knock can also makes noise. Broken flywheel or clutch as well but usually that will change when depressing the clutch.
Cheers