1HDT Bad Clunk and Vibration: Stranded

SNLC

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I didn’t do anything to the crank other than clean it up and put the Taiho bearings in.

Are the numbers stamped on the block or the crank? The FSM talks about getting numbers from the crank and the con rod and adding them together. Some folks have suggested going 1 size over that to compensate for wear? Do you guys just put the factory sizes in?


Yes on the crank is conrod, block is crank. Did you do both or only conrod?

Cheers
 
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Yes on the crank is conrod, block is crank. Did you do both or only conrod?

Cheers
Crank has not been out. I’ve only replaced the rod bearings on the crank.

Mains could be an issue but I can’t really check that without pulling the motor.
 

SNLC

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Crank has not been out. I’ve only replaced the rod bearings on the crank.

Mains could be an issue but I can’t really check that without pulling the motor.

Ok.

You checked thrust on the crank? Were you in the timing case? If so you check thrust on idler gear?

Cheers
 
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Ok.

You checked thrust on the crank? Were you in the timing case? If so you check thrust on idler gear?

Cheers
Crank thrust was in spec.

I replaced everything in the timing case when I refreshed the motor. But I did not check thrust on idler gear at that time.
 
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I did too much to list. Lol. But as far as the block & head go I did the con rod bearings, timing belt stuff, valve adjustment, injection pump, injectors, new crank pulley/dampener, new flywheel & clutch, etc.

I did not do a head gasket or go further into the block than the BEBs.
 

SNLC

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So I looked at your build thread when you did the engine work.

Did you replace the p/s pump gear? If the gear has or gets a nick on it that can make it tick. It is not a knock noise though, it is a tick.

Are you running full boost with the green wheel? 22psi?

I doubt it is clutch or flywheel. If you setup the timing gears correctly, it is not likely that either. New or rebuilt injectors so doubt it is that too, plus they tick not knock. If it is a pronounced knock I would lean more towards pistons/rings or crank bearings.

If you have not done it, I would suggest running it and going over the whole thing with a stethoscope. This will help narrow down where the noise is coming from.

Cheers
 
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So I looked at your build thread when you did the engine work.

Did you replace the p/s pump gear? If the gear has or gets a nick on it that can make it tick. It is not a knock noise though, it is a tick.

Are you running full boost with the green wheel? 22psi?

I doubt it is clutch or flywheel. If you setup the timing gears correctly, it is not likely that either. New or rebuilt injectors so doubt it is that too, plus they tick not knock. If it is a pronounced knock I would lean more towards pistons/rings or crank bearings.

If you have not done it, I would suggest running it and going over the whole thing with a stethoscope. This will help narrow down where the noise is coming from.

Cheers
I can’t remember off the top of my head RE the PS pump gear. But this is a pronounced knock on shut off and vibration under load.

I turned the boost down a hair to 20psi peak.

Im planning on getting under it and trying to pin down the sound better as soon as I can get new bearings on the con rods. Start over diagnosis zero after that is done.

I’m definitely feeling like I could have multiple issues presenting at once. But it’ll be good to know that if the crank is still knocking it can pretty much only be the mains now.
 

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Not sure on the vibration, that could be engine/trans mount which I am sure you have already checked.

Did you set timing as per the FSM with the SST?

Bad crank bearings can cause a knock.

Piston slap can cause a knock too but it is generally not as pronounced.

It is always hard to troubleshoot here vs in person. Seems you are experienced enough though to not confuse say injector knock vs an actual pronounced knock.

We have repaired a number of 1HDTs where they got a bunch of boost added to them with nothing else done. Chowed turbos, blown head gaskets, ect. We have also seen crappy rebuilds with bores shaped all out of whack and ring gaps way off. So we tend to go through it all on the diesel builds when adding increased boost. 1HDTs are also known to lift heads with increased boost. That is solved with ARPs.

If you can’t narrow it down pulling the engine may be needed. If you got lucky you could get away with fresh rings, crank bearings and the ARPs along with a fresh OEM MLS head gasket. That is not to bad $$$ wise since you have fresh turbo, injection pump, injectors, flywheel, clutch, ect.

I have driven to Panama and back three times. If it was me and I was going to be living out of the Cruiser, going remote, ect I would want to know it is rock solid. You have got the FSM so you can see what is involved and it appears you have the skills to do it all yourself.

Cheers
 
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Not sure on the vibration, that could be engine/trans mount which I am sure you have already checked.

Did you set timing as per the FSM with the SST?

Bad crank bearings can cause a knock.

Piston slap can cause a knock too but it is generally not as pronounced.

It is always hard to troubleshoot here vs in person. Seems you are experienced enough though to not confuse say injector knock vs an actual pronounced knock.

We have repaired a number of 1HDTs where they got a bunch of boost added to them with nothing else done. Chowed turbos, blown head gaskets, ect. We have also seen crappy rebuilds with bores shaped all out of whack and ring gaps way off. So we tend to go through it all on the diesel builds when adding increased boost. 1HDTs are also known to lift heads with increased boost. That is solved with ARPs.

If you can’t narrow it down pulling the engine may be needed. If you got lucky you could get away with fresh rings, crank bearings and the ARPs along with a fresh OEM MLS head gasket. That is not to bad $$$ wise since you have fresh turbo, injection pump, injectors, flywheel, clutch, ect.

I have driven to Panama and back three times. If it was me and I was going to be living out of the Cruiser, going remote, ect I would want to know it is rock solid. You have got the FSM so you can see what is involved and it appears you have the skills to do it all yourself.

Cheers
Do you have a link to the ARPs for the head?
 

SNLC

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Do you have a link to the ARPs for the head?

They are only available in Australia. I tried to get them directly from ARP here in the USA but the Aussies own the rights on them.

They are expensive at $1000+ a set but the Aussie will ship them to you, 3 or 4 sources over there at least and available for all the 1Hx platforms.

Cheers
 
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They are only available in Australia. I tried to get them directly from ARP here in the USA but the Aussies own the rights on them.

They are expensive at $1000+ a set but the Aussie will ship them to you, 3 or 4 sources over there at least and available for all the 1Hx platforms.

Cheers
yup quite pricey.

might as well buy a rebuild kit that includes the ARP studs.

this looks like good Value
CUSTOM HIGH PERFORMANCE 1HDT ENGINE REBUILD KIT

1650155256515.png
 
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I talked with the guys over at RADD Cruisers about the bearing damage and what could have caused that damage in so little time they saw only a few main options:
-Very Bad Oil Pressure
-Over-revving at start on a cold motor
-Piston Interference (timing out far enough to hit valves or wrong head gasket thickness on replacement)
-Overfueling causing detonation, likely from dripping/leaking injectors or pump timing.

-Oil pressure has always been perfect on the factory gauge from everything I've read. But that doesn't rule out an oil flow problem to the crank.
-Never over-revved cold in the last 4000mi anyway.
-Head gasket looks to be original, so that's unlikely. Timing could be off but it was running perfectly at idle without taps or clicks or knocks.
-Overfueling is possible. I have long suspected the truck was quite rich cold and got better as she warmed up. But mileage has been averaging 20-22mpg for the most part over 4000mi and a mix of highway, city, and dirt.

With all that being put up as possible issues, does that ring any bells for anyone?

Any ideas where I could look for oil pressure/flow issues to the crank? Any common issues or blocked passages to the lower end?

I turned down the boost when I got the Turbo set-up from 22psi to 20psi and I didn't touch the pump. But my MPGs or EGTs wouldn't suggest running rich through the range or under load...
 
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Have you pulled the timing cover to check if the belt has skipped a tooth?
Did you have the head off as part of your refresh? Which HG did you use?

Is it possible that you've had a piston pin/bushing issue? If one of those let go you'd have a knock as piston hit valves/head? Could pull the rocker cover and check whether the shims go loose when they should (BDC?)
 
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Pulled the timing cover and valve cover today.

Timing is as it should be. Everything lines up perfectly. Tensioner spring is still there. Idler looks good. Everything under there is still torqued properly.

None of the valves are tight, all buckets spin when unloaded. Haven’t checked actual gap yet, but nothing is tight.

I also pulled the glow plugs and ran the crank around several times listening for anything metallic or any unusual resistance or … anything. All seems normal. Unfortunately.

Soooooo…. Oil pressure? No idea now what the cause could be.
 
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Have you pulled the timing cover to check if the belt has skipped a tooth?
Did you have the head off as part of your refresh? Which HG did you use?

Is it possible that you've had a piston pin/bushing issue? If one of those let go you'd have a knock as piston hit valves/head? Could pull the rocker cover and check whether the shims go loose when they should (BDC?)

Head has not been off and HG is original I believe.
 
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Any cam lobe or cam bearing scoring?

Some Autozone/O'Reily's rent out bore scopes to check out cyl walls assuming it's small enough to fit down the glow plug hole (should be).

Otherwise, getting eyes on the main bearings would be a good idea but a huge asspain.
 
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Any cam lobe or cam bearing scoring?

Some Autozone/O'Reily's rent out bore scopes to check out cyl walls.

Otherwise, getting eyes on the main bearings would be a good idea but a huge asspain.
I was just sitting here looking at the cam and debating if it’s safe to pull the center bearing only without damaging anything. Pulling them all properly would be an asspain as well.
 
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I was just sitting here looking at the cam and debating if it’s safe to pull the center bearing only without damaging anything. Pulling them all properly would be an asspain as well.

By the FSM they need to be loosened uniformly with several passes. So, officially, I can't recommend it.


That said, if it was my personal vehicle, would I'd pop one of the caps off get a gander and immediately retorque it? Probably, maybe.
 

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