1973 FJ40 doors don't fit (2 Viewers)

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I get about 32-1/8" on my '73 measured as follows.

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I noticed that too. I've seen late doors on early tubs but not early doors on a late tub.


Think I read on mud a few years back the catch on the bottom and top for the ambulance doors have been used when running early doors on a 75+ FHT. Personally perfer the later one piece doors. Been using them my 68 FHT close forty years. If I was going to run a hard top on my 73 FST would use later doors. When I bought it 72 hard top and doors were on it. Luckily soft doors and bows were still with it.
 
There was a thread four five years back with a misfit 1/2 tub that one of the shops in Colorado had to abandon because of an issue like this. It might have been a French tub, or Colombian. Robbie might remember more about it. I think it might have even been in the classifieds with a disclaimer.
 
OK the Colorado comment was good because the guy I purchased it from was in Colorado. Here are all my pictures. As you can tell by the measurements the door frame starts off the right amount at the bottom but then starts to get narrower at the top. Again I had an issue when I mounted the fenders to the cowl as there was a gap at the top like the Cowell was tilted back or they welded it on tilted back towards the driver compartment.

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My son has a 71 and he has that seam. I know his tub hasn’t been replaced. The things kind of rust bucket everything on its original

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No offense but looking at the crap welding, gaps, mis alignment etc. You can tell from the pics it would be easy to take a cutting wheel and remove rear tub section, remove rockers, its all poorly done, get some door posts from an early tub that fit the doors, replace tha crap thats there, new floors. Not much you can do about the cowl/dash & a pillar if they are wrong, set up some some square lines you should be able tell how bad its tilted if any . How close is the top front corner of door to windshield frame on your current fitting ? If you redo the rockers, floors and door posts/b pillar you may be able to tile the cowl/firewall section forward before rewelding the rockers and floor in, double check fender alignment to see if it would work, pics of body mounts please.
 
74 doors on a 76 body. I use Quick Hinges and the lower ambulance door strikers.

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Post number 27. I still use the same strikers and Racer‘s seals. You do have to turn the handles a bit when closing the doors. You cannot just slam them. Everything is still tight and rattle free. However, I run 90% doors off.

Let me know if you need anything else. HTHs.

 
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Post number 27. I still use the same strikers and Racer‘s seals. You do have to turn the handles a bit when closing the doors. You cannot just slam them. Everything is still tight and rattle free. However, I run 90% doors off.

Let me know if you need anything else. HTHs.

Perfect! Thank you, I was super hung up on trying to use the original catch thinking it would need the support provided by the 2 halves socketing together to not rattle obnoxiously or toast bushings prematurely. However, if you're still happy with the setup years later I will shamelessly copy this and quit thinking about it.
 
Can you look and see if you have the short and tall body mounts in the correct locations? I mixed mine up and had a similar issue.
 
No offense but looking at the crap welding, gaps, mis alignment etc. You can tell from the pics it would be easy to take a cutting wheel and remove rear tub section, remove rockers, its all poorly done, get some door posts from an early tub that fit the doors, replace tha crap thats there, new floors. Not much you can do about the cowl/dash & a pillar if they are wrong, set up some some square lines you should be able tell how bad its tilted if any . How close is the top front corner of door to windshield frame on your current fitting ? If you redo the rockers, floors and door posts/b pillar you may be able to tile the cowl/firewall section forward before rewelding the rockers and floor in, double check fender alignment to see if it would work, pics of body mounts please.
This is the honest truth. Whomever did the work, and then decided it was good enough to cover with paint and bedliner, should never build a truck again. That thing is a disaster.
 
Perfect! Thank you, I was super hung up on trying to use the original catch thinking it would need the support provided by the 2 halves socketing together to not rattle obnoxiously or toast bushings prematurely. However, if you're still happy with the setup years later I will shamelessly copy this and quit thinking about it.
My bushing are the bronze ones. I forget if they come with the Quick Hinges or not. I would do my bushings, hinges, and seals exactly the same way if I had to do it all over again.

I know of no other way to do the latch setup. There are more options putting newer doors on older tubs than older doors on newer tubs.
 
@BGH1959

Your pics don't really show if the cowl is tilted or the tub. Which pillar is truly vertical, A or B? Which pillar is square with the rocker?
If the A pillar is vertical and square with rocker, you could cut and reweld the B pillar at the rocker.
If the A pillar is vertical but not square with the rocker, you cut both ends of the rocker, re-align both A & B to be square with rocker and reweld.
 

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