What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (45 Viewers)

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Do's and Don'ts

Do's
Do, learn from the others who have been kind enough to post how they took out their rear shocks
Do, cut them out with a sawzall
Do, remove the spare because sitting up is better than laying down on the job (the angle is way better too)
Do, stop and go to dinner when it's ready especially if the 1st shock is in
Do, chuckle that you got it done when the local mech tried and handed the keys back
Do, test drive and grab some ice cream

Don't, give up, the third time is the charm
Don't, stop when the 1st one is done just because it's been dark for an hour
Don't, cut at the top nut because 2/3 way thru it will pinch the blade and bend it
Don't, forget to tighten the bottom bolts just because the top nuts move "like butter"

I'm sure a lot of folks can identify with working on the DD and having to get it drivable before the next day. Also the feeling of satisfaction when it done and it drives tight and smooth.
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Over the last two weeks my husband ripped out my AHC and installed my Slee diff drop, OME springs, Total Chaos UCAs, and Fox 2.0 shocks while I wire wheeled and painted the frame and the splash guard. Got some help from my little one.

It looks amazing, but it drives even better. I am hoping I never have to get rid of these shocks and that they can eventually handle some weight.

And! Because my husband really, really loves me, he gave me the 16" wheels off his 02 that I've been begging for and swapped out my 18s. Let me just say, I've been drooling over those machined Tundra wheels and watching them on eBay, but I will never go back to 18s. Not. Ever.

Going to get sliders soon which will be good, because I have to grab the wheel and jump to get in.

I am taking it wheeling on Saturday with some friends. I can't wait to see how it does!View attachment 1351845 View attachment 1351849 View attachment 1351851
Why the disdain for 18s?
 
Do's and Don'ts

Do's
Do, learn from the others who have been kind enough to post how they took out their rear shocks
Do, cut them out with a sawzall
Do, remove the spare because sitting up is better than laying down on the job (the angle is way better too)
Do, stop and go to dinner when it's ready especially if the 1st shock is in
Do, chuckle that you got it done when the local mech tried and handed the keys back
Do, test drive and grab some ice cream

Don't, give up, the third time is the charm
Don't, stop when the 1st one is done just because it's been dark for an hour
Don't, cut at the top nut because 2/3 way thru it will pinch the blade and bend it
Don't, forget to tighten the bottom bolts just because the top nuts move "like butter"

I'm sure a lot of folks can identify with working on the DD and having to get it drivable before the next day. Also the feeling of satisfaction when it done and it drives tight and smooth.
View attachment 1351896

Do read the thread on how to change your rear shocks in less than a hour using a hole saw.:grinpimp:
 
I need to replace or rebuild my steering rack, How much time did it take you ?
I'm sure you could do just the steering rack in a few hours. I replaced almost all the bushings and ball joints, both cv axles, steering rack, bearings, and degreased everything underneath. It was bad, took me a whole day to get all the grease and dirt off everything.
This thread and fsm helped out a lot: How To: Replace your own steering rack
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1st cylinder exhaust flange on drivers side
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2nd cylinder
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1st one all cleaned up and ready to go back in. Took me almost seven hours to take it apart and get it back in. Three hours was spent just on fixing broken studs on exhaust manifold to y-pipe connection. Long day for minimal return, but no more crazy loud tick on cold start ups is priceless.
 
The ride is so much nicer. I do think I can objectively say that.
Why the disdain for 18s?

I am running Grabber AT2s on both trucks. The 18s are e rated and the 16s are d rated. When they were on the 2007, the ride felt stiff and decidedly trucklike. While on the 2002, we had the 16s, which felt so cushy in comparison. Same mileages on the trucks at 140k. I thought maybe it was just that the suspension on the 02 was better and less tired than the ahc, but now those tires are on the 02 and it feels exactly the same as the 07 felt, so I am done with the 18s and will pick up another set of 16s, for my husband (who is now complaining that his LC is not as pleasant to drive anymore).
 
I went by the local excellent tint shop in our area and I asked what it would be to tint the back glass to 20% and the front windows to 35 to stay legal here in NC.

I also advised I could have all door panels and rear panels off to help them, mostly b/c I don't want them breaking 16 yr old plastic bits on me and they said about 250...

That a fair deal???

Also will some of the bronzish tint still be able to be seen? I am fond of the mirror type tint from the factory but want a bit more privacy.

Did you get this done as of yet - just wondering due to NC tint laws.. I had an issue with passing last month with the front tint - shop had to try pretty hard with the 'tint tester?' - (have no idea what they use) but they finally got it to read 32% for a pass, before that it kept reading 1% over...... NC tint laws....sheesh. If you got it done - how is the windshield strip - does it seem to help at all?
 
Did you get this done as of yet - just wondering due to NC tint laws.. I had an issue with passing last month with the front tint - shop had to try pretty hard with the 'tint tester?' - (have no idea what they use) but they finally got it to read 32% for a pass, before that it kept reading 1% over...... NC tint laws....sheesh. If you got it done - how is the windshield strip - does it seem to help at all?

Going to be next year if I do it at all,

Behind the driver NC doesn't care if it's an SUV as it's the same class as a work van which can have zero visibility.
Front driv/pass can't be darker than 32 that why Garners tints at 35.

I'm in the process of deep clean right now, and don't want to drop money on tint until next year around spring if I decide it's needed.
 
Going to be next year if I do it at all,

Behind the driver NC doesn't care if it's an SUV as it's the same class as a work van which can have zero visibility.
Front driv/pass can't be darker than 32 that why Garners tints at 35.

I'm in the process of deep clean right now, and don't want to drop money on tint until next year around spring if I decide it's needed.

I didn't realize that about being the same class as a work van - thanks, good info.
 
It's funny though, the working van is not considered an SUV but if you look at the title or registration information it's got a different class, I've got some friends that are in the Subarus and the funny thing is I believe the Forester which is the largest Subaru is considered an SUV.

Of course don't quote me on any of this and double-check rules and regulations, lol...

I do know trucks can tint any window behind the driver as dark as they want. But the 35% law applies to both frint side windows. I'm pretty sure North Carolina says any amount of tent at all on the front windshield is illegal, if you try to put a strip across the top and it's below the marker on the left side of the windshield I believe it's called an ANSI line they consider that illegal.

Honestly I learned a good lesson at least for me about a month ago when I took the wife out in the Tacoma and we had a really hard time seeing out of the side windows while we're on the trail and it kind of got to me and it got to her because it was like tunnel vision happened to look out the front windshield only. So I won't be going darker than 35 on anything in the future for the front side windows.
 
Over the last two weeks my husband ripped out my AHC and installed my Slee diff drop, OME springs, Total Chaos UCAs, and Fox 2.0 shocks while I wire wheeled and painted the frame and the splash guard. Got some help from my little one.

It looks amazing, but it drives even better. I am hoping I never have to get rid of these shocks and that they can eventually handle some weight.

And! Because my husband really, really loves me, he gave me the 16" wheels off his 02 that I've been begging for and swapped out my 18s. Let me just say, I've been drooling over those machined Tundra wheels and watching them on eBay, but I will never go back to 18s. Not. Ever.

Going to get sliders soon which will be good, because I have to grab the wheel and jump to get in.

I am taking it wheeling on Saturday with some friends. I can't wait to see how it does!View attachment 1351845 View attachment 1351849 View attachment 1351851


CatskillsRunner,

I've been searching for someone who is using the Fox 2.0 with OME springs and was happy to see your post. Did you go with the Medium Load 860's? I didn't see anything about new torsion bars, so did you just crank on the OEM bars to sit level? I know you haven't had this new set up long, but I'm interested to hear your thoughts on how it handles/drives relative to the old setup.

Thanks,
Matt
 
CatskillsRunner,

I've been searching for someone who is using the Fox 2.0 with OME springs and was happy to see your post. Did you go with the Medium Load 860's? I didn't see anything about new torsion bars, so did you just crank on the OEM bars to sit level? I know you haven't had this new set up long, but I'm interested to hear your thoughts on how it handles/drives relative to the old setup.

Thanks,
Matt

I am in love with it.

I forgot to add that I also have OME t bars. You can't run the AHC t bars once you ditch the rest of the suspension. Contrary to what others have said, I am a fan of the t bars and have not found that they stiffened the ride unreasonably. Yes, they are medium load springs.

I think what I'm about to say is more a factor of just lifting Land Cruisers than anything else, because the ride of my 5th gen 4r was unacceptable to me without aftermarket UCAs to get it back within alignment specs, while I drove the LC to Toyota to have it aligned and it felt like it barely needed it. The tech told me he had to do very little to align it.

It still has rake which is how I like it. I often have 300 lbs. of grain back there and need it to ride ok without messing with the airbags, because I don't have an onboard system. I only use the airbags if towing.

In my opinion, the lift has not changed the body roll at all. On the other hand, it feels better than it ever did. I always looked forward to driving it, but it's just stupid now.
 
I think what I'm about to say is more a factor of just lifting Land Cruisers than anything else, because the ride of my 5th gen 4r was unacceptable to me without aftermarket UCAs to get it back within alignment specs, while I drove the LC to Toyota to have it aligned and it felt like it barely needed it. The tech told me he had to do very little to align it.

I'm not sure I understand your statement above. I thought I saw, in your earlier message, that you added Total Chaos UCAs.

Are you saying that you don't think you needed the UCAs because the alignment was pretty close before adjustment?
Or​
Because of the 4runner experience, you bought and installed the UCAs without question?
Although the Total Chaos UCAs are not adjustable, aren't they supposed to add some additional caster by design, which would explain the minor adjustment required to re-align it?
 
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I'm not sure I understand your statement above. I thought I saw, in your earlier message, that you added Total Chaos UCAs.

Are you saying that you don't think you needed the UCAs because the alignment was pretty close before adjustment?
Or​
Because of the 4runner experience, you bought and installed the UCAs without question?​
Although the Total Chaos UCAs are not adjustable, aren't they supposed to add some additional caster by design, which would explain the minor adjustment required to re-align it?

Yes, when I lifted the 4r, because so many people said you didn't need UCAs, I didn't get them. Then I hated the ride and had them installed. However, I didn't wait to get UCAs this time because of that and he put them on at the same time as the rest of the suspension. Since I didn't wait, it's hard to know how the stock arms would have been, but it threw the 4r off so much I wasn't willing to chance it.
 

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