Bypass AT Park Safety (for starting)

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Nashville, TN
So my truck has been giving me trouble starting when it is hot. Reading threads around here, I think it has something to do with the unit that prevents the truck from starting when in gear? Something about a solenoid not releasing when it's hot? If someone could shed light on this and a way to bypass, that would be great.

The truck starts after a while, but usually about 20-30 minutes of sitting, which can be nerve wracking for first time guests 15 miles into the forest ;)

Thanks in advance...
Phil
 
The park safety release is under a little cover just north of your shifter, you have to pry the cover off and then push a little button using something like a pen, screwdriver, etc...
 
The park safety release is under a little cover just north of your shifter, you have to pry the cover off and then push a little button using something like a pen, screwdriver, etc...

Interesting. My 4Runner had that button that you can press and not have to press the brake pedal to shift out of park. Curious as to why the 80s dont have it available...unless you pry off the cover, etc.
 
I believe this is called the Nuetral Safety switch and I have seen folks remove that little square and with a screwdriver down the hole, start their truck
 
I believe this is called the Nuetral Safety switch and I have seen folks remove that little square and with a screwdriver down the hole, start their truck

WHAT?!?!

I want to ask for more info but I kinda also don't. More info for me, less info for someone who wants my truck.
 
WHAT?!?!

I want to ask for more info but I kinda also don't. More info for me, less info for someone who wants my truck.

No- pressing the button doesn't automatically start the truck, you still have to have a key and turn it in the ignition....
 
OK, we're all confusing 2 different things here...

Neutral Start Switch: Pie shaped guy mounted on the side of the transmission housing. Allows the starter circuit to work only when in P or N.

Shifter interlock: Locks the transmission shifter in P until the ignition switch is ON and brake pedal depressed.

The failure to start when hot...is that no crank or no fire?
 
OK, we're all confusing 2 different things here...

Neutral Start Switch: Pie shaped guy mounted on the side of the transmission housing. Allows the starter circuit to work only when in P or N.

Shifter interlock: Locks the transmission shifter in P until the ignition switch is ON and brake pedal depressed.

The failure to start when hot...is that no crank or no fire?

Right, the push button is just to take the vehicle out of P without the key on or brake pedal depressed.

You can try putting the trans in neutral when it acts up. That uses a different circuit in the Trans Range Selector switch. It would also indicate that is where the problem lies.
 
Right, the push button is just to take the vehicle out of P without the key on or brake pedal depressed.

You can try putting the trans in neutral when it acts up. That uses a different circuit in the Trans Range Selector switch. It would also indicate that is where the problem lies.

OK, we're all confusing 2 different things here...

Neutral Start Switch: Pie shaped guy mounted on the side of the transmission housing. Allows the starter circuit to work only when in P or N.

Shifter interlock: Locks the transmission shifter in P until the ignition switch is ON and brake pedal depressed.

The failure to start when hot...is that no crank or no fire?

Both of you are on the right path here. I know about the Interlock. I'm referring to the NSS. Basically, the truck thinks the shifter is in gear when its hot. I've hit the SI and moved the shifter back and forth, tried starting in Neutral. No crank. Get prime though, so I know it's not dead - reads ~12V on the scanguage.

Someone with this issue mentioned it can be a sticky solenoid? I just want to bypass the system so that the truck always thinks its in park, meaning I wouldn't have this issue. Of course, I could rebuild the solenoid, but I really don't want to get into that at this point.

Any thoughts now that we have clarified? Sorry for not putting that in the original post, but I forgot what it was called ;)

-Phil
 
The only solenoid in that circuit is the starter solenoid, which is part of the starter. There is not even a relay on these vehicles. If you are having an issue with the solenoid, you should be hearing a click, but no crank. The most common thing is the starter contacts which are inside the solenoid, a search should bring up how to replace these.

It's not recommended to bypass the Neutral Safety switch, you don't want to chance starting the vehicle in gear. You can do this as part of diagnosing the problem, though. At that switch, there should be a couple wires which are larger than the others, one black with a white tracer (from the IGN switch), the other black with a red tracer (to the starter solenoid). Disconnect the connector and jumper these together with a jumper of sufficient wire size and the proper connector terminals. If your engine starts, then you know the NSS is the problem. Get one of those and be sure to follow the FSM for how to adjust it properly when replacing.
 
I 2nd the starter if you haven't ruled that out. Next time it doesn't start, take the jack handle or long metal rod and tap the starter solenoid (connected to the starter). If it turns over after that (or a few trys) you've found your problem. Thats how I trouble shot mine.
 
Okay. Down the rabbit hole I go. Help me stay on track before I so any further. Been using the shift lock bypass for a couple weeks. 90% of the time I need to. Had the long delay start this morning which is a new one! Sweet! I'm sort of surprised with myself-I held the key long enough as it was a good 2-3 seconds and started. Vroom vroom. Got to work and fired right up after shutting down several times to satisfy curiosity. So studied this : 94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?

Okay its a solenoid. Probably. Doesnt seem to strand anyone completely. Clean contacts, check wiring, maybe replace solenoid. Then I come across this thread.

I read the shift lock problem would probably be the lock ECU. Coincidental I'm having a shift lock issue and the pause in start today? Would the NSS failure manifest in this way?
 

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