Stock Location Mounted Powered Sub (bolt-on) and New Stereo

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Nay

Joined
Aug 17, 2004
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Location
Colorado
When I bought my 80, the PO had replaced all four door speakers with Kenwoods, disconnecting the front tweeters. And it sounded like crap. I can't imagine what it must have sounded like with the stock speakers. I wanted to add Sirius satellite radio, so I figured it was time to see if these speakers were worth anything in the process. And they are - I went with a Pioneer DEH-P3000IB deck, which is pretty basic for a receiver that can handle a sat radio hookup.

The sound is fantastic upgrading from the factory junk. Anybody who has replaced speakers only and kept the factory receiver hasn't realized half of the potential improvement. The problem was that now I had good clarity and actually wanted the volume up whereas any real volume was pretty painful with the factory receiver. So I decided it was time to replace the factory "sub" with something that would add good bass without any need to blow out the windows. A powered sub (built in amp) wired with RCA jacks fit the bill.

I chose the Kenwood KSC-SWI, which has a 6.5" powered speaker and a second 6.5" reflective (non-powered) speaker that is driven by the powered speaker for $250 from Crutchfield. The idea was that at about 3.5" high, you typically mount these under the driver's seat. I figured it would be close, but maybe I could also mount it in the stock location somehow. It really doesn't fit under the driver's seat if you are going to mount it to a piece of plywood as suggested, so I set out to figure out the stock location.

First order of business was to remove the stock junk, which had ceased working all together. Then I looked at the various mount brackets that came with the sub as well as the idea of using the stock mount bracket if possible. After messing around with it, I realized the sub would fit perfectly mounted vertically near the stock location, but how to mount it? After a few different ideas, I suddenly realized that if I bent the brackets that came with the sub it would mount perfectly into the pinch seam near the seat belt.

Now I had a goal - fit a powered sub into the stock location. I first used dynamat on most of the sheetmetal and then bent the brackets, marked the required bolt holes, and drilled. That pinch seam is surprisingly thick and makes an excellent mount. The sub fits in so tight and so perfectly it practically seems made for this space. Even without the mount bolts tightened, the entire unit simply could not move at all, and with bolts tightened it is rock solid. You can't move it a millimeter, and the two drums line up pretty well with the stock cover and vent.

So it was time to test...and...nothing. I had wired it up to the 12v power for the original amp. This was enough to show power to the remote control (you can adjust output levels with a wired remote), but ultimately not enough to power the system. I finally figured that this might be the problem as I had verified my ground and ran the power straight to the positive battery terminal, and boom, I had bass.

So now I have satellite radio, which is too cool as I was out crawling last weekend with sat radio the entire time out in the High Country way beyond cell phone coverage, and the system flat out shines. The addition of the sub opens up the entire range and this relatively small powered sub is a perfect complement to the capabilities of the relatively small door mounted speakers. It is an entire level above the premium 240W Bose system in my minivan in terms of sound clarity (not volume), and that's a very nice system. I went from absolute ear-pain crap to a near audiophile system with a simple $130 receiver, satellite radio adapter, and subwoofer (very nice door speakers already installed). Hopefully that will help those looking for real bass in their systems know that this Kenwood unit will mount up perfectly in the stock location. Just make sure you use Dynamat or an equivalent so your newfound bass is not accompanied by any newfound buzzes or rattles.

One other thing - Crutchfield sends you a "pocket" that mounts up to the factory brackets to fill in the space below the receiver for free, so now I have a little bit of extra storage in the dash. See the third pic.
Subwoofer.webp
Subwoofer Mount.webp
Stereo Pioneer.webp
 
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Nice! I have my entire 4Runner done in 2 layers of Dynamat. I am constantly on the fence about redoing the system in the Lexus. I know that I would really like to have satellite and ipod capabilities. I think that I would also really like to be able to use that pocket area for a 2M radio. What can I say; too much to do, too little time:D:rolleyes:
 
Nice! I have my entire 4Runner done in 2 layers of Dynamat. I am constantly on the fence about redoing the system in the Lexus. I know that I would really like to have satellite and ipod capabilities. I think that I would also really like to be able to use that pocket area for a 2M radio. What can I say; too much to do, too little time:D:rolleyes:

Do it - it's the difference between having music and not having music. I feel like my truck just got 10 years younger.

Now to finish off that Tacoma DC shaft I just bought and this project is done.

Oh wait, I have to Durabak it this summer. Dynamat on all the doors. 7100's at some point. New rims. Winch. Almost done :grinpimp:
 
Great set up!
I didn't even know that the Kenwood KSC-SWI existed!
I need to redo my entire rig's audio system! I found out the other day while installing keyless entry that my cruiser didn't have door speakers! Kinda sucked! Now there are 2 things for me to work on. Drawer system and the entire audio system!
Thanks for the idea!
 
So, how exactly is the new subwoofer wired? Did you completely bypass the stock amp?
 
Why didn't you use the Kenwood KSC-SW10?


I was looking around EBay and these seem to be the replacement to the SW1 and slightly smaller in size and almost half the money.

I've been wanting to do something for a sub and this idea seems within my time constraint and budget.
 
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Why didn't you use the Kenwood KSC-SW10?

They were the same price when I was shopping Crutchfield - Google shows I paid too much :D, but I really did need the tech support late Friday night and Saturday to deal with the wiring issues (power) I was having, so it was worth it. The SW10 may be as good or a better option.

As for wiring, yes, this bypasses the entire stock wiring system. What is interesting is that there are 3 harnesses for the audio system in the factory audio wiring pack. The biggest "main" harness plugs into the stock unit and presumably runs to all of the speakers. The two smaller harnesses separate front and rear wiring with nothing for the sub - you'd have to tap into the rear lines to wire a sub directly, or presumably figure out which wires in the main harness go to the sub and tap into those. Straight RCA wiring is much easier and probably provides a better signal.

Crutchfield sent their harness adapters for the smaller harnesses for the Pioneer receiver - they were colored coded identically to the Pioneer deck so I simply had to solder up the like colored wires and plug 'em in (one has front door speakers and power/ACC/ground, the other just rear door speakers). I am getting great depth of sound from the rear door speakers now. Songs like Radiohead's Reckoner have more depth than anything I have ever heard on a car audio system (of course, I've never put in my own full system before, so now I know what I've been missing even compared to the so called "premium" brand name factory setups).

The sub is wired via the RCA inputs/outputs so it is on its own line entirely, and the power is straight from the battery (the stock amp is removed as you mount this unit in that space and this is a powered sub with a built in amp). They clearly pull a lot of power as a powered sub (it stopped working as my battery drained from my high volume testing, but I could still turn it over and start the rig), and I think you have to run it this way vs. trying to tap into any other power source. I really should have known trying to tied a 14 gauge power source wire into the stock amp power line.

The coolest thing besides the audio result is the mount fit. There are some smaller units out there I might have gone with that would have fit under the seat, but they were out of stock and I figured I wanted a bit more thump. That it fits this tightly and securely in the stock position is just pure luck :D
 
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I've already have Kenwood excelon series speakers and head unit. I imagine the remote gizmo can go in the trash as my head unit already has control for crossover freq. and volume.

Yep. My Pioneer deck has crossover freq and phasing, but not volume. If you have volume control no need for the remote...except that I think if it is not plugged in the unit won't power, so you may still have to zip tie it up and leave it in the compartment.
 
I have the same sub mounted right behind the drivers seat on my drawer system. I think it is a very nice ballance and really doesn't over power the entire system but still gives plenty of bass.
 
I have the same sub mounted right behind the drivers seat on my drawer system. I think it is a very nice ballance and really doesn't over power the entire system but still gives plenty of bass.

I agree - I think anything more would overwhelm the rest of the system anyway, so buying a separate amp, sub, and then trying to design an enclosure seems way overkill for a basic 80 audio upgrade.
 
Wiring and Audio Package!

They were the same price when I was shopping Crutchfield - Google shows I paid too much :D, but I really did need the tech support late Friday night and Saturday to deal with the wiring issues (power) I was having, so it was worth it. The SW10 may be as good or a better option.

As for wiring, yes, this bypasses the entire stock wiring system. What is interesting is that there are 3 harnesses for the audio system in the factory audio wiring pack. The biggest "main" harness plugs into the stock unit and presumably runs to all of the speakers. The two smaller harnesses separate front and rear wiring with nothing for the sub - you'd have to tap into the rear lines to wire a sub directly, or presumably figure out which wires in the main harness go to the sub and tap into those. Straight RCA wiring is much easier and probably provides a better signal.

Crutchfield sent their harness adapters for the smaller harnesses for the Pioneer receiver - they were colored coded identically to the Pioneer deck so I simply had to solder up the like colored wires and plug 'em in (one has front door speakers and power/ACC/ground, the other just rear door speakers). I am getting great depth of sound from the rear door speakers now. Songs like Radiohead's Reckoner have more depth than anything I have ever heard on a car audio system (of course, I've never put in my own full system before, so now I know what I've been missing even compared to the so called "premium" brand name factory setups).

The sub is wired via the RCA inputs/outputs so it is on its own line entirely, and the power is straight from the battery (the stock amp is removed as you mount this unit in that space and this is a powered sub with a built in amp). They clearly pull a lot of power as a powered sub (it stopped working as my battery drained from my high volume testing, but I could still turn it over and start the rig), and I think you have to run it this way vs. trying to tap into any other power source. I really should have known trying to tied a 14 gauge power source wire into the stock amp power line.

The coolest thing besides the audio result is the mount fit. There are some smaller units out there I might have gone with that would have fit under the seat, but they were out of stock and I figured I wanted a bit more thump. That it fits this tightly and securely in the stock position is just pure luck :D

I don't think I will have too much to worry about when it comes to wiring! I'm guessing that my rig only has the base speaker system! Hence, no factory sub and the other thing that makes me think that I have the standard setting and not the optional audio package is the fact that I don't even have speakers on the driver or passenger doors! My speakers are kinda on the lower part of the dash board! Here are a few pics to check out!
2008_03030054 (Small).webp
2008_03030055 (Small).webp
2008_03030056 (Small).webp
 
What a great solution. Thanks for posting. I've been thinking of what to put back there and this fits the bill! Compact, not a ton of cash, and relatively simple.

I could conceivably do this and a headunit at the same time and be done.

Thanks for the info!

:cheers:
 
I've already have Kenwood excelon series speakers and head unit. I imagine the remote gizmo can go in the trash as my head unit already has control for crossover freq. and volume.

Rick,

What model Kenwood headunit do you have?

Thanks!
 
Rick,

What model Kenwood headunit do you have?

Thanks!

I'm not sure and not at home. It has been a few years and my only requirements was enough power to avoid additional amps and MP3 capable. I doubt it's even sold any more.

FYI, I found these units new with a 15ft RCA cord and free shipping for 164.00. I think I'm going to pick one up.
 
I'm not sure and not at home. It has been a few years and my only requirements was enough power to avoid additional amps and MP3 capable. I doubt it's even sold any more.

FYI, I found these units new with a 15ft RCA cord and free shipping for 164.00. I think I'm going to pick one up.


I found that there are a few more options is the same size/price range

Blaupunkt THb 200A

Never heard of them...but cheap
Boss Audio BASS600 Subwoofer Enclosures

The other kenwood
Kenwood KSC-SW10 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

I think I might try that Blaupunkt one...:meh: they seem all about the same
 
I just ordered what Nay got for 164.35 shipped from techronics.com. He's worked out the mounting and it's a known good fit which is worth something as far as I'm concerned.

If you go with the Blaudbunkt let us know how it works.
 
Nay,

I notice you have two types of Dynamat in the pics--is one the Original? What is the silver one? And does it matter? Did you just use what you had on hand?

I'm looking to order the Dynamat, too, and want to get the right stuff.

Thanks,
 
I'm not sure and not at home. It has been a few years and my only requirements was enough power to avoid additional amps and MP3 capable. I doubt it's even sold any more.

FYI, I found these units new with a 15ft RCA cord and free shipping for 164.00. I think I'm going to pick one up.

Thanks--I'll probably call Crutchfield and just make sure whatever I'm looking at has the crossover freq. and volume controls on the headunit . . . in additon to an iPod/MP3 interface.
 

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