What vacuum lines do I NEED?

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I'm short on time, so I wanted to make this post before I head home from work. I'll try to research more later...

What are the bare minimum vacuum lines I need? Vacuum advance and...? I just threw on a Weber carb. I already plugged the air injection stuff a while back. I will probably make an EGR blockoff plate soon. What else can I take off? Can I pretty much take off ALL of that junk on the driver side fender? Just run a plan carb with the vacuum advance and get rid of all that other stuff. I see no reason why not.

What about those two vacuum lines that go to a part attached to the thermostat housing? Anyway, I'll read more later, but I wanted to start this thread so that I'd have some direction when I get home from work...
 
I'll start taking bets now that his next post will be, "How come my rig runs like s*** ?!?" ....
 
I'll start taking bets now that his next post will be, "How come my rig runs like **** ?!?" ....

:D

I just finished the "re-de-smog" on my truck to clean up the half-arsed PO effort.

My truck has a Weber. There is one vacuum hose, it runs from the carb to the dizzy. EGR completely removed (j-pipe, cooler, valve) and the pipe to the intake cut, capped and welded (with PCV retained of course). Air pump devaned and ports capped. All the valves, pipes, hoses, wires, removed from the DS fender.

I wish it still had the HAC, but that's one part the PO did remove... :bang:
 
Here is a simple question then... (I am working through the Desmog thread)

Since I installed the Weber, what smog systems are now obsolete?

Edit- I'm still reading through that 42 page thread... I guess if it is easy, I'd keep the HAC. Will the AC idle up work with the weber? I assume that the fuel decel cutoff wont. I'll keep reading for answers, but I figure I'd post my questions too since a guru might read this before I make it through 42 pages...
 
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Every weber carb install is desmogged. Weber doesn't have provision for canister purge, hi-altitude, decel fuel cut, etc.

Alright, I made it through all 42 pages and this is all that was said about Weber carb setups.

So, I guess the HAC isn't an option? I'll want to research that. Otherwise, I guess everything else goes... I'll keep the vacuum advance and plug the rest...
 
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So, I guess the HAC isn't an option? I'll want to research that. Otherwise, I guess everything else goes... I'll keep the vacuum advance and plug the rest...

Yea, that desmog thread is a long read. I did it at least twice (plus the how-two document) prior to doing my desmog.

I think you can keep the HAC with a webber, but you'll need to be creative. The OEM dizzy has two vacuum ports. The outer one is used when the HAC detects that you are at 4000ft or higher. So, all you need to do is to have a manual switch that enables vacuum to the outer port. Flip the switch when you get to 4000 ft. I have fiddled around with some left-over smog stuff, and it seems to me that one of the VSV's + any used on/off dash switch can serve as the essential guts of such a system. I just haven't had the time to put it together. Kevin Rowland (I think) first had the idea on here, might check out his threads.
 
Well, I've located a leak coming from my EGR. I think this is a good excuse for me to block that off as well.

Here is a question... How can one have absolutely NO vacuum? My cruiser was actually idling quite nicely, despite leaks, but when I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the vacuum port on my weber, I got nothing. The needle didn't even move. What's up with that?

EDIT- well scratch that, I guess from what I am reading, that prot doesn't get vacuum unless the throttle is open. Would that be the best port for vacuum advance?
 
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Correct, the carb base port should not show any vacuum with the throttle closed. There's a test port on the manifold fitting for the brake booster hose. Should be a small hose that runs to the booster along with the big one. If you pull the small hose off the booster, you'll see it just connects to a little plastic stud, it's the factory connection to check manifold vacuum.
 
So would it be better to get my vacuum from the manifold or the carb port? On the weber instructions, it refers to that port as the vacuum advance port.

Secondly, I guess if I don't use that port, I should plug it.

LASTLY- can anyone compare and contrast on the effects of running a PCV vs just having a small breather over the port? I figure the vacuum sucks out the fumes, but since it is "positive" crankcase pressure, wouldn't it just leak out to atmosphere? I need to figure out if I am deleting my EGR or not. I also just read someone arguing that if you delete the EGR that the distributor ideally should be modified to account for not having the EGR working. That makes perfect sense to me. I honestly didn't want to get rid of the EGR for any reason other than it is leaking and I just didn't want to deal with it...
 
Vacuum for the dizzy advance should come from the carb port.

You can delete the EGR without deleting the PCV. Just cut off the EGR pipe and plug it at the manifold. I made a plug out of a bolt head and welded it in. JB Weld would work as well.
 
Just cut off the EGR pipe and plug it at the manifold. I made a plug out of a bolt head and welded it in. JB Weld would work as well.

any chance i could get a pic of this?

it would be greatly appreciated. and sorry dont mean to hijack.

Jason
 
any chance i could get a pic of this?

Of course.
23032012127.webp
 
So, what is the minimum that I need to keep connected to keep my EGR working properly?
 
To keep it working properly, you can't really disconnect any of the EGR kit.
 
I'm trying figure out what parts are exactly in the "EGR kit". I just downloaded the emissions manual from Spike's link. Hopfully I can narrow down exactly what I need.
 

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