What vacuum lines do I NEED?

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As you are desmogging, you can eliminate the EGR system completely, since it is part of the emissions controls. In simple terms, the j pipe from the exhaust manifold, the exhaust cooler on the DS side of the block, the vacuum valve bolted to the side of the intake, and the pipe to the PCV inlet (the one in my pic above). Plus the pipes and servos on the fender, and the hose/pipe that goes down to the exhaust below the floor.

For the J pipe, you can make a block off plate or just remove the pipe, cut and seal it, and put it back. The heat shield hides it. For the pipe that goes under the floor, as Jim says, the proper way is to cut it off at the exhaust and weld it up. The hillbilly way is to cut the hose below the brake booster and cap it with a rubber bung or a big bolt. Someday I'll do it proper... :hillbilly:
 
<snip> For the pipe that goes under the floor, as Jim says, the proper way is to cut it off at the exhaust and weld it up. The hillbilly way is to cut the hose below the brake booster and cap it with a rubber bung or a big bolt. Someday I'll do it proper... :hillbilly:

Alternative hillbilly method: I left everything up the that pipe that connected to the air pump and put a wine cork in that. Works great.
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Hey guys I am in the same process my big hang up is on the Charcoal Canister. on the top one goes into the dash the other to the frame rail assuming to the fuel tank the other however goes through the metal vacuum tubes to the driver's side and is open where should this go. also I have one vacuum line going from the carb adapter to the brake booster does this sound right?
 
Charcoal Canister:
One small hose (on "tank" port) leads to the tank vent pipe on the fire wall.
Done.

One small hose (on "purge" port) connects to the small pipe that leads behind the engine.
From that pipe on the other side, a vacuum hose is led up to a vacuum control valve (VCV). Labeled "P" in picture below. That valve has several vacuum hoses connected to it. How to rig it is shown in the emissions FSM. The bottom nipple on that VCV connects a hose that connects to the L pipe coming out of the base of the carb insulator plate. Labeled "C" in the picture.
Done.

The big hose on the cc connected to the electrically controlled valve leads to the big pipe leading behind the engine. On the carb side at the firewall a hose is connected to it, labeled "V" in the bottom picture, and connects to the big float bowl breather pipe sticking out of the Aisin carb, also labeled "V" in the top picture.
Done.

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Charcoal Canister:
One small hose (on "tank" port) leads to the tank vent pipe on the fire wall.
Done.

One small hose (on "purge" port) connects to the small pipe that leads behind the engine.
From that pipe on the other side, a vacuum hose is led up to a vacuum control valve (VCV). Labeled "P" in picture below. That valve has several vacuum hoses connected to it. How to rig it is shown in the emissions FSM. The bottom nipple on that VCV connects a hose that connects to the L pipe coming out of the base of the carb insulator plate. Labeled "C" in the picture.
Done.

The big hose on the cc connected to the electrically controlled valve leads to the big pipe leading behind the engine. On the carb side at the firewall a hose is connected to it, labeled "V" in the bottom picture, and connects to the big float bowl breather pipe sticking out of the Aisin carb, also labeled "V" in the top picture.
Done.

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Hey thanks for the reply however, mine has the webber carb on it and all the emissions stuff gone well except the vcv on the evap and the canister it self. As of right now I have one going from carb port to dizzy then the other from carb adapter to brake booster. That is pretty much all the vacume I have working right now. and the only open port from the canister is the one that goes behind the engine to the driver side. I am trying to find out if that needs vacuum and if I can just go from an empty port on the manifold(its desmogged) sorry if this seems overly complicated I might just be dense. I will add pictures.
 
This image the only carb port on webber will go to the vacuum advance on distributor
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What is open port on dizzy
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You can't use the charcoal canister on the Weber like the Aisin carb.

Just vent the gas tank vapor pipe on the firewall to the "purge" port on the char canister. That's it. None of the other nipples/pipe openings are used. It's just a place to vent the tank. Nothing should be "leading into the dash" (as you mentioned).

If you're still using the Toyota carb plate insulator which has that L pipe coming out of the base, just plug the L pipe or keep it as you have it, teed off to the brake booster hose.., if the brake booster isn't getting its vac source at the back of the manifold in the normal spot.
 
You can't use the charcoal canister on the Weber like the Aisin carb.

Just vent the gas tank vapor pipe on the firewall to the "purge" port on the char canister. That's it. None of the other nipples/pipe openings are used. It's just a place to vent the tank. Nothing should be "leading into the dash" (as you mentioned).

If you're still using the Toyota carb plate insulator which has that L pipe coming out of the base, just plug the L pipe or keep it as you have it, teed off to the brake booster hose.., if the brake booster isn't getting its vac source at the back of the manifold in the normal spot.
thanks don't call the forum police but I just posted this same question in a new thread on the 60 page. Right before you answered back. anyway when you say I can't use it does that mean scrap it and just run the hose from the fuel tank open? I am trying to make sense of the whole mess from the PO so the evap canister isn't the only problem I am trying to solve just one of many also not real well versed in emissions stuff or toyota stuff have been a jeep guy for along time
 
Use the charcoal canister. It just can't be plumbed up like it originally was with the Aisin carb.

Vent the tank through it. It has a filter in it and will keep dirt from getting sucked back into the tank and it will keep some of the gas fumes at bay when the cruiser is parked in a garage.
 
I'll start taking bets now that his next post will be, "How come my rig runs like s*** ?!?" ....
My Vacuum lines are vacuum advance, power brakes, PCV, vacuum gauge.

It's totally de-smogged with MAF tri-y headers, exhaust and turbo muffler, recurved dizzy, Trollhole carb.
It runs great. Consistently gets 13 mpg with occasional forays into the 15 mpg range--calculated from GPS mileage not odometer.
OTOH, the 32/11.50-15 tires were the biggest drain on on-road performance compared to the 31/1050s. Still liveable though.
 
Use the charcoal canister. It just can't be plumbed up like it originally was with the Aisin carb.

Vent the tank through it. It has a filter in it and will keep dirt from getting sucked back into the tank and it will keep some of the gas fumes at bay when the cruiser is parked in a garage.

I used a fuel filter in the line to replace the evap cannister. Works great.

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I like this idea how much gas smell do you get?

None. There is hose that comes out of the bottom of the cannister that goes to that hard pipe and vents inside the frame rail. Just connect the purge (I think, been a while) to that via the fuel filter. You can lose the cannister which frees up a lot of real estate and make timing a lot easier. My canister was completely plugged and a new one was spendy for motor desmogged anyway so I just lost it and along with it the problems with vacuum building in the fuel tank and stopping it running 'til you opened the cap.
 
any chance i could get a pic of this?

it would be greatly appreciated. and sorry dont mean to hijack.

Jason


5 years later, and Im reading this post looking for same answers.

Here is what I did- stuffed an old (11mm?) socket in and welded it. I welded the air rail bolt holes shut, too. Also welded a socket into the cut end of where the egr pipe goes into the exhaust pipe.

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