Rack Idea for Stock Roll Bar (w/LEDs) (1 Viewer)

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I started with this HF receiver rack kit

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-steel-cargo-carrier-69623.html

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dumped the 2" tube, spaced it out a little, and it is sitting right on the pads here. I've got four quick fist clamps on order that I'm going to use to keep it there. The LEDs are a photoshop job. I've only got one so far.

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It will also work up on top if someone is going to use the jump seats.

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Top? No top needed, nor doors for that matter.

It will fit inside the top when mounted at the rear, just can't use the jump seats. I should get the clamps tomorrow, so I'll post up some more pics with gear in it over the weekend.

The clamps look like this:

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BTW, I've got a total of about $100 into this, including the extra hardware and the clamps.
 
WOW, That is a great idea. Looks very cool also.:clap:
 
Man it must suck living in California. I can't imagine running all year long without a topper and doors!!!

Can you imagine leaving your rig parked in the back and covered with a trail cover? I thought you were asking about legally. It's way too cold to run around all the time without a top and doors; doors especially. It warms up enough in the middle of the day to make it to the taqueria, but commuting in the morning and evening would be past my limit. My other '40 has the hard top on and I have a tow rig and a commuter car.
 
Eddy,

Man......I was thinking you guys could drive all the time in 75 - 80 degree weather. When I see Arnold on the TV Commercials it's always warm!:cheers:

I hear you. I've got another 40 sitting out in the rain/snow/sleet right now that I need to move inside. It loses weight by the day due to rust.

I am looking forward to seeing more pictures of this project. You can never have enough storage space.

Scotch and Water is calling me:cheers::cheers:

Begging me to be it's friend!
 
Latest, with quick fist clamps. Bolts and other HW are not installed yet. Still only have the one LED light.

The "original" clamps claim to be able to fit up to 2.25". No way I could stretch them onto 2" tubing. :confused:
Poly Performance was awesome about exchanging them. Thanks! These are the next size up, the "go betweens".

The cargo net is cut down from a larger one from harbor freight that was $10 on sale. Total investment to this stage is $125 + lights.

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Funny... I saw that at HF the other day and had the exact same idea... I've been wanting to do a rack back there for a long time and as soon as I saw that I starting thinking that it was cheaper then I could build one for.

Very nice. Now I might have to go down and buy it tomorrow and do this. Extra storage is always nice in a 40.
 
Are you sure those QuickFists will handle the shifting weight of rack and gear over a rough trail? I wouldn't be comfortable with rubber clamps holding a roof rack full of gear, even a half rack like that one.
 
Are you sure those QuickFists will handle the shifting weight of rack and gear over a rough trail? I wouldn't be comfortable with rubber clamps holding a roof rack full of gear, even a half rack like that one.

Excellent question. I'm planning for a max of about 300 lbs with a working limit of about 200 lbs.

The Go-between model is good for 50 lbs with a break strength of 150 lbs. They are rated for holding tools or whatever vertically. Most of the weight here is not vertical, but simply sitting on top of the clamp. They are very high durometer rubber. The exception would be climbing a rocky incline where the rack would be trying to pull backwards. In this case the roll bar pad will keep it from sliding backwards as well as the friction of the rubber on the roll bar. I'm guessing 300 lbs in that direction would not be a problem as it's still mostly pushing against the bar with maybe 50 lbs on each side trying to shear off the roll bar pad. This is well within my estimated limits.

The rack itself is rated for 500 lbs in the original configuration, attached to a receiver. My PVC spacers may be the weak link, but even with 300 lbs in the rack, each PVC end is limited to about 30 lbs of torque (guess), so I have no current plans to use steel tubing there.

With 300 lbs in the rack, and the rig on it's side, the rubber mounts will have to hold 75 lbs each. Over limit, but well within break strength.

The rack is very solid. I'm not going to stress test it, but I'm sure I could stand on it, and I really have no plans to load it up to 300 lbs. I will put all my soft stuff up there (chairs, tent, maybe the stove) and keep my ice chest and water can down in the bed. Worst case will be a Dusy Ershim trip where I'll have to put two gas cans up top. That's 60 lbs and only if I bring the dog. If it's just me and a passenger the gas cans go in the back too.

I still have plans for a tire rack and there may be room for a can rack there too. Not sure about that yet.

Over the weekend I finished up the hardware. Each clamp is bolted to a flat plate with two screws where one of the screws passes through the rack, so the weight is distributed across the two screws. I also added a switch panel in the corner behind the driver and a dome-light panel in the center with an OEM dome light. No pics though...
 
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The Go-between model is good for 50 lbs with a break strength of 150 lbs. They are rated for holding tools or whatever vertically. Most of the weight here is not vertical.

My understanding of the breaking strength of the quick fists is the mount bolt pulling through the rubber of the quick fist. I'd speculate that any sudden sideways loading that would cause the quick fists to fail would probably be catastrophic in nature (high speed collision, rolling the truck, etc).
 
Very nice Eddy, this is another one for my to do list. Thanks.
 
My understanding of the breaking strength of the quick fists is the mount bolt pulling through the rubber of the quick fist. I'd speculate that any sudden sideways loading that would cause the quick fists to fail would probably be catastrophic in nature (high speed collision, rolling the truck, etc).

I don't think sideways could do it. It would have to be landing straight upside down, in which case my little roof rack would be the very last of my worries.

Right now I have 'normal' 1/4" washers, but you've given me the idea to make custom washers that wrap around the rubber to make it impossible for them to pull through. Maybe little sections of channel. Hmm. I really don't think the washers could pull through in any other situation than epic badness.

I think as it is, with what I plan on putting up there, it would survive a slow roll without spilling anything out.
 

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