Just ordered a pressure bleeder- from Motive, would speed bleeders be a waste too? (1 Viewer)

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Anybody ever use one? I've so damn tried of bleeding brakes on three cycles and three cars/trucks. I'm getting ready to do all new front brakes on the junker and redo the rear, one leaky cylinder.

Additionally my Triumph bike needs rebled, of and there's the clutch for the junker, and a complete, front to back on my old corvette. And I'm sure my Dad will find plenty of other cars and bikes for me to bleed out!

I hope this thing saves me time and aggrevation, I got too much damn s*** to work on it's cutting into my fj and ride time. anybody wanna buy a 77 Corvette, maybe I'll throw up a FOrd probe gt with 75000 miles!!!

I hope this pressure bleeder is worth the money about 100 beans shipped to the door, I wonder if speedbleeders used in conjunction would be a waste of money????
 
btw, if no one has done a write up on this thing I could probably do one.
 
I would say that speed bleeds are the only thing you would need. It looks like the pressure bleed would only work on a resevior that had a treaded cap to ensure no pressure loss. I've never seen one, so could be wrong
 
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I use speedbleeders at all four wheels and the clutch slave cylinder (on the 78 it is the same size as used on the front brake). I find that they are all you need to do a one person bleed of the brakes or the clutch.
 
It is not only a waste of money, it is a waste of time. You can have the brakes bled using the tried and true two person method before you can get the speed bleeder out of the box and set up. The two person method always gets all the air out as long as the MC is kept topped up.
 
speed bleeders are the only way to go.

So simple it is stupid..

And, at $12.00 or so an end. There is almost no reason not to make your life easier..
 
Pin_Head said:
It is not only a waste of money, it is a waste of time. You can have the brakes bled using the tried and true two person method before you can get the speed bleeder out of the box and set up. The two person method always gets all the air out as long as the MC is kept topped up.
x2 :D
 
Pin_Head said:
It is not only a waste of money, it is a waste of time. You can have the brakes bled using the tried and true two person method before you can get the speed bleeder out of the box and set up. The two person method always gets all the air out as long as the MC is kept topped up.
Just how long does it take you to install a set of these? Once all four are changed out it is a simple one person job. They will not draw air back in.

"Bleeding brakes can be a difficult thing to do. It generally required two people to bleed brakes. You had to have one person pump the brake pedal while you had the other person open and close the bleeder screw. You had to coordinate the openings and closings with the pumper. If you didn't coordinate the timing correctly you could end up with more air in the system than when you started. Speed Bleeders are truly a one-person bleeder screw. Once installed, it becomes a permanent part of the brake system. When it is time to bleed your brakes, you loosen the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and pump your brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the pressure generated opens the check valve letting air and brake fluid out of the end of the Speed Bleeder. When you release the pedal and it returns to the up position, the check valve closes and prevents any air from reentering the system through the Speed Bleeder. When bubble free fluid is evident you close the Speed Bleeder. In the closed position it works just like your stock bleeder screw and prevents any brake fluid from leaking out."
sbani copy.jpg
 
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It doesn't take much coordination or skill to do the two person bleeding routine. Even my 8 year old could do it:
Down... down!
Up ..... Up!

Way back when I was working in a 8 bay shop that was doing 6-12 brake jobs per day, we always did two person bleeding because it was fast and it always worked. It took maybe 2-3 minutes to bleed the brakes.

You never have to bleed them again until you do a brake or clutch job.

Come awn...
 
the major reason for buying this thing was not so much for my trucks, but for my bikes. I have a Triumph with ss brake lines that has a real issue with bleeding. Im a fanatic when it comes to excellent braking, particularly on a bike that I ride hard and fast. When you change your brake fluid once a year in three bikes and three to four cars and trucks, it boils down to one thing...Time.
I hardly ever have anyone around to help me and when you start buying bleeders for everything you have that is hydraulic it adds up. I'm looking for something to save me time so I can enjoy my time off. I love wrenching on all my toys but I like to have time to enjoy driving and riding them too.
 
The motive product is pretty good on MC that have threaded tops. I have one that works great on a Volvo. Not sure it would work on the cruiser with the soft caps and no threads. Maybe if you have an extra cap you could add a fitting to hook it up and rig some sort of a clamp to hold it on. But by the time you did all that you could have the system bled with a helper. :idea:
 
Let me know how well this pressure bleeder works out. I too have multiple cars/bikes to use it on and speed bleeders just aren't an option as I would be their #1 customer for all I would have to buy. I have seen one that has specific caps for the application or one that has all the adapters needed for different vehicles.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

See model #0350 for $110

There is also the vacuum-type like Matco sell for $167

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2101&select=&page=2

and Snap-On for $257

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1672&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

For that kinda coin, it make the Motive pressure-type look pretty attractive.
 
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I'm curious how these caps fit on the master cylinder, I can see the threaded ones working well but the universal deal i'm kinda hokey on. I do have extra snap tops, in case I need to modify something. I'll let you all know how it works out,
 
I purchased a motive pressure bleeder with the universal fitting and tried it on my FJ60. Before I got it pumped up to the recommended pressure, brake fluid started leaking from the rubber hose that goes from the reservoir to the front piston in the MC. Bummer. Taking the universal cap off, also made a mess because the reservoir filled up to the top. Double bummer. Switched to speed bleeders and they work great. Summit Racing has them for $10 per pair.
 
Good info. Motive out, vacum type and Speedbleeders in.
 
Ive done the vacuum thing and have had problems sucking air around the threads and also around the hose. Been there done that. I'll try this thing out but have always been an advocate of speed bleeders. I just want a quick way of doing multiple vehicles quickly
 
Hi All:

I borrowed a "Snap-on" brand pressure brake bleeder from a friend and found that it worked quite well at getting the air from the rear brake lines after doing the "Monte Carlo" style RDB swap on my FJ40 (and mounting the calipers with the bleeder pointed down.)

I think it is a useful tool, but certainly not the "only" way to bleed brakes; the "old school" way has worked well for many folks for a long time. I've also heard good things about "Speed Bleeders" as well.

Regards,

Alan
 
i've got a mighty vac worked great a couple of times, now it doesnt' hold pressure. i bought a couple of sets of speed bleeders (two different brands at two different places and i don't know which are which now), put them on the 45 and the pig, some work, some don't...i'm going back to the pita, pump up the pedal, wedge a 2x4 in place and crawl underneath and bleed method.
 

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