You pick ca-luh!! (Embedded Coating Tech Input Sought.)
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #22
I don't figure that it'd be advisable, but the split case is PCd and reason for query.
About to go pick to the H55 from the dock, do now is the time, but sounds like a nightmare for nothing.
Is it a bad sign when you start thinking that used may have been the better choice, just so the reason exists to tear it apart, coat it and rebuild it.
Bahahaha.
Just FYI, parts I blasted and primed/painted well on my 40 are still holding up well 10 years later. I never babied that truck either,
You ever see Tulsa this time of year?
Absolutely stunning......
Have been canvassing CL for a rotisserie, blast cabinet, 110 welder for the house.
Couple weeks back, an Auto Twirler and a 36" "multi media" deal popped up for $2k OBO, all NIB.
Few emails and it was stated the cabinet had collector, lights, was a bigger brand, same with rotisserie (but think it may have been too short for a Pig), so I get address, which sounded familiar, cash and head out in Ford.
Address was familiar because it was a storage I built about twelve years ago, the first "no go" for me with CL sales. Seller was 6' 6", weighed a buck twenty five, missing teeth, smelled like a matchstick, with plates from NM.
Said he'd take $1,500 for all, but I had to walk away....
Short story is, I don't have a cabinet yet.
What the wheelers get.
Best PC job I've ever seen was on a Gobi rack ( that I cut up. Haha) second from Expedition One.
The Expo One was great until the first trip out.
- Thread starter
- #23
Chris--
Absolutely DO NOT tear apart a new H55F to powdercoat it.
Period.
Thanks.
You're no fun, man.......
Bahahahahaha.
Well you are right PC is the overall choice of MUD and really mine too. On our '05 T4R we just sold I PC'ed everything I could and it all seemed to do well. I don't believe there is a fix all, especially in the conditions your describing (had no IDEA things got that bad in Tulsa). I just had a customer ask me to sand and paint his diving board base cause the salt in the pool had a field day with it over 6ish years.
This pic doesn't do justice to the damage. It seems as if the rust started under the PC and blew up from underneath cause as we worked on it the top seemed not to bad until a huge chunk would break off! But as you stated if your wiping down and treating as you go through the seasons then maybe it wouldn't be an issue?
-Daniel Kent
This pic doesn't do justice to the damage. It seems as if the rust started under the PC and blew up from underneath cause as we worked on it the top seemed not to bad until a huge chunk would break off! But as you stated if your wiping down and treating as you go through the seasons then maybe it wouldn't be an issue?
-Daniel Kent
- Thread starter
- #25
OT and verbose...
One thing to note regarding PC, galvanization, or any other coating that comes in direct contact with concrete is, they'll all fail, regardless of the presence of salt in the environment.
The ~80 year curing process of concrete emits very corrosive chemicals that standard steep coatings can't withstand. In the industry to which I'm familiar, connections on or below grade are oversized to a certain percentage of its yield strength, in an effort to provide more structure than the hydration process and it's byproducts can deteriorate in any real world calculation.
There are some prohibitive measures to minimize, which do work in the most corrosive environments, until they're attached to the foundation with anchor bolts.
In your pic, I'd bet cash money that the chemicals the anchor bolts transmitted through the punched base plate were the origination point of corrosion and once it began to deteriorate the PC, it was over.
Should you ever encounter a situation similar, where you may be responsible for anchoring a coated steel plate in close proximity to a pool, and want to slow this process, research epoxy anchoring systems.
It's been my observation on a structure similar in nature that the epoxy must provide some degree of insulation from the alkalinity. Out of around eighty total anchors in said building, sixteen weren't set correctly in the pour and we had to epoxy them in. They show no evidence of the surface deterioration that the other sixty four do, after eleven years.
Anyhow....
Can't see that I'll ever drive this Pig on salted roads. By the time all is said and done, they she may not see rain....
Hahahaha.
One thing to note regarding PC, galvanization, or any other coating that comes in direct contact with concrete is, they'll all fail, regardless of the presence of salt in the environment.
The ~80 year curing process of concrete emits very corrosive chemicals that standard steep coatings can't withstand. In the industry to which I'm familiar, connections on or below grade are oversized to a certain percentage of its yield strength, in an effort to provide more structure than the hydration process and it's byproducts can deteriorate in any real world calculation.
There are some prohibitive measures to minimize, which do work in the most corrosive environments, until they're attached to the foundation with anchor bolts.
In your pic, I'd bet cash money that the chemicals the anchor bolts transmitted through the punched base plate were the origination point of corrosion and once it began to deteriorate the PC, it was over.
Should you ever encounter a situation similar, where you may be responsible for anchoring a coated steel plate in close proximity to a pool, and want to slow this process, research epoxy anchoring systems.
It's been my observation on a structure similar in nature that the epoxy must provide some degree of insulation from the alkalinity. Out of around eighty total anchors in said building, sixteen weren't set correctly in the pour and we had to epoxy them in. They show no evidence of the surface deterioration that the other sixty four do, after eleven years.
Anyhow....
Can't see that I'll ever drive this Pig on salted roads. By the time all is said and done, they she may not see rain....
Hahahaha.
That makes perfect sense. If concrete contact is the factor the your rigs have nothing to worry about. 
-Daniel Kent
-Daniel Kent
- Thread starter
- #28
Hmmm. Guess I'll have to see them bare.
- Thread starter
- #29
Going back to the head, since prepping and packaging to get to Robbie to get started on.
What's the best means to achieve as close a match to Freeborn Red as possible, in a paint system that'll last?
Needing to get started, finally, so this will be the first decision that HAS to be made.
What's the best means to achieve as close a match to Freeborn Red as possible, in a paint system that'll last?
Needing to get started, finally, so this will be the first decision that HAS to be made.
on axles, spray por15. get a freakin awesome mask and then put on another mask, 'cause you will get loopy, but treeroots 40 axles look tits years later. (probably still do, i haven't stared at his axle lately)
- Thread starter
- #32
I'll just leave that right there for ya....
I kinda like loopy....
uuummmmm they look like shiney copper
An admission.
Had no clue they were copper until Pighead made mention of. Rubbed on my line today, and sure enough, it is.
Google Translate claims a Freeborn Red match through an auto parts store (somewhere the speak Espanol) in high temp.
Sounds like a productive day!
- Thread starter
- #35
Talked to Josh, my buddy at Cruiser Corps, about head paint and he said that they'd metal etch prime, then base and clear with the same PPG product they paint the body with.
I asked about using their rattle can version, since it won't be possible to paint at the same time the balance is painted, and he said it's a single stage paint, so would require several light coats.
Probably over thinking this ( ) but since the head will be built in Boulder and not efficient to ship fifteen times to paint, wondering how viable the rattle can Freeborn Red paint would be, considering the desire to match the exterior and provide Robbie with the paint to achieve in house, versus sending it out?
I asked about using their rattle can version, since it won't be possible to paint at the same time the balance is painted, and he said it's a single stage paint, so would require several light coats.
Probably over thinking this (
) but since the head will be built in Boulder and not efficient to ship fifteen times to paint, wondering how viable the rattle can Freeborn Red paint would be, considering the desire to match the exterior and provide Robbie with the paint to achieve in house, versus sending it out?- Thread starter
- #36
Easy question....I think.
Is there consistency amongst the varying powder coaters, like paint code to typical paint?
If not, is there a way to describe and maintain consistency for a matte or semi gloss black?
From an "build" efficiency standpoint, it initially appears that different components may be easier to coat at different locations and times, so the question is posed in an attempt for black colors to match as closely as possible, if possible, to minimize downtime and freight expenses.
Is there consistency amongst the varying powder coaters, like paint code to typical paint?
If not, is there a way to describe and maintain consistency for a matte or semi gloss black?
From an "build" efficiency standpoint, it initially appears that different components may be easier to coat at different locations and times, so the question is posed in an attempt for black colors to match as closely as possible, if possible, to minimize downtime and freight expenses.
- Thread starter
- #38
I did not know that powder even came from Sherwin Williams.
Guess I'll stop by the local outlet and get the rundown on it. See if there's a close equivalent to 202, and be done with it.
- Thread starter
- #39
Reviving, since the determination has become critical.
Robbie bought a blast cabinet and new compressor for the project at hand, so the only items that be outsourced for blasting are the axle housings.
He'll be porting head, then dropping everything at the machine shop first of the week, and I've dropped the ball on getting paint determined and in his hands.
Robbie bought a blast cabinet and new compressor for the project at hand, so the only items that be outsourced for blasting are the axle housings.
He'll be porting head, then dropping everything at the machine shop first of the week, and I've dropped the ball on getting paint determined and in his hands.