You pick ca-luh!! (Embedded Coating Tech Input Sought.)

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Bert to hope for is Toyota's modifications to the later years allow for more thermal movement, hopefully, minimizing stresses that crack the earlier, designs.

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The joint in the center of the manifold isn't solid, but think the 3FE manifold is probably a better design.

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This is what I have used for frames, brackets, axles, etc... I have had great luck with the SEM product line. In the link below I use the flat black with the gloss hardener. It leaves a great satin finish. It also rolls on very well leaving a smooth finish.


http://www.semproducts.com/rust-shield/


For other brackets where I need a spray can I use SEM Trim Black. I have never seen a product that lays out like this and is very durable.


http://www.semproducts.com/trim-black/

Good to know! I need to coat the undeside of my 55 and 40. Will check links to see if they have a rattle can product.

I do not think so. Mine cracked and was done

...could any type of coating prevent cracking?

Could they be welded to repair the crack?

I'm an anal prepping mo-fo

Tucker

Interesting...
 
This is what I have used for frames, brackets, axles, etc... I have had great luck with the SEM product line. In the link below I use the flat black with the gloss hardener. It leaves a great satin finish. It also rolls on very well leaving a smooth finish.


http://www.semproducts.com/rust-shield/


For other brackets where I need a spray can I use SEM Trim Black. I have never seen a product that lays out like this and is very durable.


http://www.semproducts.com/trim-black/

Do you understand the difference btwn Rust Shield and Rust Seal?
 
This is what I have used for frames, brackets, axles, etc... I have had great luck with the SEM product line. In the link below I use the flat black with the gloss hardener. It leaves a great satin finish. It also rolls on very well leaving a smooth finish.


http://www.semproducts.com/rust-shield/


For other brackets where I need a spray can I use SEM Trim Black. I have never seen a product that lays out like this and is very durable.


http://www.semproducts.com/trim-black/

Pricing? Do you buy this from a local distributor?
 
Do you understand the difference btwn Rust Shield and Rust Seal?


Rust Shield is a paint and rust encapsulator all in one, I will clean an area of any flaky rust, clean with a degreaser, then paint the product.


Rust Seal is only applied to a rusty area and will chemically convert the rust then dry to a protective that can be left exposed to the environment.


Rust Mort is similar to Rust Seal, but doesn't have the extra coating to protect the area from future rust.


I will use Rust Seal on an area that is rusty, but I don't want to recoat with a paint product until later. I used Rust seal on a set of OEM wheels that were rusting between the center and the outer ring. They were already painted and I didn't want to strip and recoat at that time. I used Rust Seal on the rims allowing it to seep into all the cracks and then cure. I used the wheels for the next couple years and I never saw rust return. In the end I sandblasted and painted the wheels with epoxy primer and paint, and still today there isn't any rust at the seams.


Hope this helped
 
Pricing? Do you buy this from a local distributor?


I buy all of it from a local paint supply house. I know none of it's cheap, I believe with the hardener Rust Shield is close to $100 a gallon. I have used a lot of products and this by far beats them all. I have both sprayed and rolled the product. I would rather roll it most of the time since I am able to get a real nice finish and with the availability of different sized rollers I can get better coverage most of the time without the overspray. If interested I can take a picture of the rolled finish.


Scott
 
So, another discovery, although accidental....

Was exploring epoxy primers when I happened upon a forum for an actual manufacturer, that inevitably led to the manufacturers web page, where the owner literally lists his mobile number with an invitation to call with questions.

I spared him (actually, myself, since I don't talk much) and emailed, instead....verbose, as usual.

Anyhow, I explained, in detail (:)) all details pertaining to, being what we were coating, how we were prepping, the limited painting capabilities (no spray both, not professionals), along with a low/no gloss black finish, to consistently maintain throughout the balance of the unexposed mechanical/ frame components.

He replied, "two to three coats of my black epoxy would be perfect for the parts listed"....

Also replied I was SOL on a color matched 309 head paint, but still hunting.

Companies website

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/UserForum.htm

The product suggested.

First is brushed on.

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Same Mudder, same product sprayed with a cheap HVLP gun

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They claim that I can paint everything with this, as long as it's not exposed to UV. Think the owner replied to another that "if you're underneath it and you can't get a sunburn, no reason to top coat."

Anyhow, my reply was along the lines of "how much do I need, and what is cost?"

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Just meant the product failed, and not due to the application .

I knew exactly what you meant.

.. the rest is up to your imagination ;-) Tucker

That, kinda makes me feel funny, considering connotation and context.

Bahahaha.

Man, I was, too on my last endeavor. (That'd be painting endeavor, so don't get your hopes up.)

Went to a local auto body supply and they called a customer, who spoke to me about "how" and "what" to use on a few parts, some 202, some interior gray.

Glass blasted, rubbed parts down.,,a lot, epoxy primed, then top coated and it turned out looking like tick turd chit. Was pissed, considering the time invested, but thinking it may be from using a rattle can, not an actually spray rig....operator error.

Know this much.

ALL of the two part PCd products for the 80 are now compromised, yet the Rustoleum is holding up very well, considering the corrosiveness of the road treatment.

The corrosion on the sliders and bumper are limited to, and seem contained to the gouges, even, and I literally threw it on cardboard in extreme temps, and hastily sprayed after a round of straightening and reinforcing, before a local event.
 
So, the SPI details.

They said two to three coats of the two part, black epoxy primer is all needed, and gave the following pricing criteria.

2 quarts of each, shipped $139.00

1 gallon of each shipped $177.00

They have a two gallon "kit" with a decent shelf life, but I'm wanting to minimize material being transferred, so....

2 Quarts cover everything but the frame rails?

Or get the gallon?
 
Here is an image of the SEM rust shield painted on a raw 6x6 hot rolled post with no prep work besides wiping it down with Wax and Grease remover. Attached are a couple undercarriage pictures as well. The color and finish are flat black with gloss hardener, leaves a real nice satin finish.

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Here is an image of the SEM rust shield painted on a raw 6x6 hot rolled post with no prep work besides wiping it down with Wax and Grease remover. Attached are a couple undercarriage pictures as well. The color and finish are flat black with gloss hardener, leaves a real nice satin finish.

Nice! Thanks...
 
Ordered a gallon of each of the two part epoxy primer from
Southern Polyurethanes Inc. in "black", which should result a low gloss finish.

Two gallons (one of both parts) is $177, shipped.
Four quarts (two of both parts) is $139, shipped.

The suggestion was two or three coats on everything we're doing now. The shelf life should allow for future endeavors on this Pig if all isn't used at Robbie's, my concern the frame but can be used on anything.

I actually worked with Andy, not Barry, but thinking a family affair. Reason for going this route, opposed to others suggested was his apparent knowledge, willingness to answer questions and make suggestions based on criteria given, and readiness to do so.

Obviously knows his stuff.

Will post up results once they've resulted.
 
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